I going through the calibration process of OrcaSlicer wiki, then I left a print unattended and now I have this fun to try to get rid of now.
RHair dryer and slowly soften and try to peel it off. Going to strip it all down 1st.
Fml.
It happened to me just once in a SV06.
Warm the extruder to 190Āŗ and the blob will soften and easily removed.
Just in case check if the nozzle is OK.
Regards
Yup, been there done thatā¦
So just heat the print head up to 190, best to be a bit low on the temp, as you donāt want to liquify the plastic you just want to soften it enough to get it off the nozzle. Once you get it off the print head bring it up to about 205 and get a no let towel (I use the towels the car wash gives you, they donāt feel like cloth or paper) quickly and very carefully give the nozzle face a wipe. If you need to give it a second, find a clean spot on the towel and do it againā¦
After that extrude a few hundred mm through the extruder just to clear out the nozzle.
Another item, go to Amazon or the office store and get you a tube of the 3M purple glue stick. Works really well on the sovol bed. Also, a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol (70%-90%)
I put the glue stick down use it a few times and clean the bed with the alcohol and reapply. Works like a champ.
Btw @xxduffyxx, are you military?
Same here 
What does this have to do with 3D printing?
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I am a Cold War vet, most of my time with the 3rd ID in Wurzburg Germanyā¦ and 3rd corp NCO academy in Texas
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See you donāt understand. You need to 3D print a bullet proof vest. Most people would know this. If you really want to discuss 3D printing please go to WTF.Com
Thank you for your service and sacrifice 
Find me on Discord xxduffyxx. Not that itās a safer place for discussion of such subjects.
Taking down all posts with my personal information that could be linked to me.
OPSEC out the window.
Bring a roll of Heavy-Duty Reynolds wrap.
Unless youāre planning a coup, your OPSEC is probably fine. With some people, the military becomes almost a religion.
Please take that conversation elsewhere. Letās stay on the topic of Sovol printers here.
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Blessed Be
I trust everyone had a nice conversation with their recently departed as the veil thinned last night.
To all those frustrated with the content of some posts, in some threads, I would point out that a notable portion of the price difference between the MK3 and SV06. Is invested into customer support services. One being a forum with facilitators
So, enjoy the atmosphere.
Not ambience, Atmosphere
Ambience, is similar to atmosphere, but without the poor people, banging spoons together an whatnot
I agree on the support statement. I have asked for support on a few occasions now and get no repliesā¦
Can you please talk me through how to SSH into my SV07? I canāt find that thread where you explained it or how to add a cam. In Moonraker or Crowsnest config, it says how to do it, but Iām not doing a fresh Klipper install as it comes with mks pi and a legacy fork of Debian Buster.
I tried again last night, but I didnāt know what password to use when I tried to use git bash and SSH pi@my printer address I use to access the printer through my WLAN using HTTP. I thought the generic PW was Makerbot, or is it my Windows 10 PW, or wtf? Or could you link the threads?
My part fan broke. I got most of the filament blob off, but it warped the nozzle fan part. I got a replacement probe in the mail. I wish they had given me some screws and sent a file to print the two pieces of the fan attachment.
I saw the instructions here or on Reddit.
I have Powershell, GitHub desktop,vscode, and docker. I do not know how to use most of these, except for GitHub, to a small degree. I watched a video on adding Klipper to any bed slinger and how much it improved last night.
You can get an SV06 + Klipper for USD 269 right now. I think that is superior to the SV07/Plus,
Crealtiy has upgrade kits to add support rods and linear rails on the X/Y axis with Klipper.
I wish Iād gone with a Creality, as they have a way bigger community, leading to upgrade kits. I donāt want to buy something that wonāt work on my S70V.
Also, they have major sales going on right now, like a K1 for CAD 600, and all their other models are on sale. Linear rails and core XY are a huge step up. Looking at a Voron Kit and way beyond my abilities or time and effort, P1S with upgrades to print everything out of the box works perfectly is an option, but $$$ if your currency is worth much less than USD. Two thousand seven, we had parity, now 30 cents on a dollar.
Too bad I have a Sovol that the mod kits are incompatible with.
P1S with AMS , upgraded extruder, upgraded 0.6 hardened steel nozzle, and high temp plate with shipping and taxes = CAD 1660.
I need to find someone in a recession who wants to buy all my knifemaking/blacksmithing stuff to fund something I will be happy with.
Hello! I have two SV07s and it is quite easy to connect them. You might be overthinking it. 
When you power on your SV07, go to Settings, then Network. If youāve already connected it to your Wifi, it will show up an IP address. Write that down (usually starts with 192.168). If you havenāt connected it to your Wifi, follow the instructions on screen to do so and then write down the IP address.
Go back to your computer and open any browser (Iāve tested on Edge and Chrome). Type in the full IP address. There is no default password with the SV07, it should log you in directly. If you typed in the IP address correctly, the Klipper screen should pop up and youāre good to go!
The sovol default login credentials are:
user: mks
password: makerbase
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I received this message by mistake. I am not the person this message is addressed to.
Ok, I went to update Klipper connected to the Github repo and updated no problem.
Then I hit update for Moonraker and it updated but now I cannot connect to the Printer as the Klipper board gets overloaded with login requests and errors out.
The printer can connect to the Klipper board but I cannot get into it.
Tried to follow the guide to unbrick your machine on Github.
Followed the guide to reflash it all lbut I could not connect to the USB C from my laptop and Putty nor my laptop could connect to the Klipper board.
I tried different cables and Putty and Device Manger didnāt show any connection but my laptop made a sound when I connected it to the USB C slot on the Klipper board.
Opened it up and there is a hidden USB C connection.
Because the mainboard is running the most current update and I donāt have a file to roll it back and factory reset and redo everything.
Beyond frustrated, searched all over for a solution.
Everything I have tried doesnāt work.
All because I canāt get Moonraker to connect, so I cannot connect anything, have 2 options restart or shutdown the Klipper board or go into the screen where you can change the colour, time zone and colour screen but cannot just factory reset it.
If there is a fix or some other way to factory reset the machine?
It will not let me into the Klipper board and it connects to the main board then errors out after trying over and over to connect to Moonraker.
Cannot do anything.
I have spent all day trying to get this working, searching for information.
There is a extra hidden USB C port on the Makerbot V1 thatās hidden.
Canāt factory reset, canāt access into it.Let alone print anything. Have the Iso on a flash drive drive but cannot get it to connect let alone do anything.
Dunno wtf to do at this point.
You can reflash the chip directly with an EMMC to usb adapter, thereās links to one in this post: MKS board inside
Had to do this myself after I stupidly bricked my printer a second time and even harder than the first. As far as Iām concerned āupdateā = ākill printerā
On the bright side Iāve gotten so much practice bringing it back from the dead Iām no longer worried about it happening again.
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