The difference is to you, the 7 (plus or not), has a different engine under the hood than the 6 (plus or not). as such, months from now if you delve into it that far, you’ll learn they can do different tricks, need different tools etc.
for now, the thing you need to spend time with is the slicer.
thats the software you bring the model into, and spits the code onto the microsd card.
Cura is popular, as is Prusaslicer. Both have been used as baselines for new improved slicers.
one fact sticks up here. the “fork” that Sovol created, and ships with the machine, is based from a multiversion old, badly configured version of Cura. its sad, but it is what it is.
If you have memorized the layout of the supplied cura, then go to ultimakers site, and get the latest.
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
end gcode
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 Z1 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y200 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
just need to change these code to fit your machine
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
The Sovol gives you a Cura 5.0 custom profile, if it’s not on the black and red USB stick it came with you can Download it off here and there August Update that, says October 5th.
It’s handy to have that to flash the main machine if you brick your Klipper screen.
Some people use the Sovol Cura slicer but you are better off using OrcaSlicer which is a fork of Cura and Prusa and is open source.
Discord server for support.
Github.com make an account and download OrcaSlicer.
If you scroll down the page you will find a install file for your computer.
It has all the features of Cura and Prusa and more, built in fixes for stl’s that load wrong.
If you have used PrusaSlicer it will be similar.
For config files there is one on Printables and OrcaSlicer has the S7 and Plus preloaded too.
Actually, Orca slicer is a fork of the Bambu lads slicer, which is a fork or Prusa slicer which is a fork of super slicer. Cura is not a fork of any of the super slicer variants.
There are a few things other than copying the info over from cura…
First off, enable arcs in the printer config file. This allows the use of g2 and g3 commands. Arcs made better radi than a straight line. (I’m a CNC machinist by trade and I don’t play one on tv)
Almost right, though the latter order is slightly different. I think Superslicer is actually a fork of Prusaslicer, and that in turn comes from the original Slic3r. Cura, as you say, has a different history. Superslicer itself, which is what I currently use, seems to have come to a dead end for now, or it had the last time I looked. There had been no releases for some time.
I tried to use Christian’s profiles and additions I followed his instructions but then I got all these G2 /G3 errors popping up. I’m using OrcaSlicer and have put all his S7 configs in it.
I am learning this stuff from scratch and the Mainsail FAQ says to add updates feature in Moonraker.config and it will update everything except the Linux version, then in during the night it will will update including the Linux fork Buster and brick the machine.
As it is going to the Github repo and updating the Linux fork Buster that I wish they would put on Github like with SV06 /+ to a different version.
I don’t know how to code or how to configure it so I don’t get the G2/G3 error codes constantly.
I’m not sure if I should even be bothering with putting the update code into the Moonraker.config file for updates as two days in a row of waking up to a messed up print and bricked Klipper screen/mainboard and have to reflash and go through the setup
process isn’t helping.
Since the FAQ is for a fresh install not add onto a custom fork.
I don’t know Linux code or G-Code.
If I could get those configs to work it would be great as they are good but getting G2/G3 errors is messing up prints.
I tried adding it to the config. File like his instructions but getting G2/G3 errors as soon as I try to print off OrcaSlicer.
Again I say, using arcs to create a curved surface is much better than tracing a circle with straight lines. Tangent moves leads to flat spots, though small but still visibly noticeable.
If you read a bit further on in Christian Vic’ write up on the orca slicer he recommends using the following add on that he created.
In my experience with the SV07 Plus, your speed gain is mainly on infill and inner walls. I run the bottom, top and outer walls around the 50mm range (I run the bottom of the print around 30mm to make sure I have good adhesion to the bed and the top and walls I run at the 50mm. The infill and inner walls depending on the material I run as high as 300mm. I have had a lot of success with this.
Give you an idea on the difference on the speed. I printed a troll scull out of overture pla for a friend of mine. I decided to run one on the sv07 and one on my old Biqu b1 (extremely modified running marlin)
SV07 1 day and 19hrs
Biqu b1 4 days 3 hrs
The SV07 looks much better and the Biqu b1 looks ok, but not near as good as the sovol.
I started with a slow printer a few years ago, I think the longest print I have done was 7 days. I bought the SV07 plus to finish building the parts for the bottom I started building av year ago. I decided to get creative and machine singer of the parts for the thing. I’m lucky as I work with cnc machines so g-codes are singing I already know and understand. But, don’t get discouraged especially when a print fails. Use it to figure out and understand just what caused the problem and the failure. In my opinion, though frustrating a failure can some times be better than a finished part. Mistakes and failure is the best classroom!
Now you’re talking about stuff that I know a lot about.
More like a 5 round grouping, marksmanship principles and practice, an individual skill set.
Setting up a proper defensive position or ambush is a lot more moving parts even at the platoon level, then Coy, and larger combined arms assaults etc.
I know that stuff still inside out.
SME on that stuff even though I’ve been out for over a decade.
my head is like insert stuff shake well then find it…