Z Axis is too high

I have a sovol sv07 plus. I have set all the leveling, bed mesh etc I’m new to this. When I started using it all was ok. I have tried a lot of different things but the noozle is always too high when I start printing. I have tried everything that comes to my mind, can anybody help? thank you!

How did you calibrate the Z axis? Please explain in detail.

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Hello, that is a question that is not easy to answer, because the answer has a large component of perception, but I am going to try.
The z-axis of the printer or, in other words, the axis of vertical movement of the extruder must be calibrated with a precision of 0.2 mm, which is the height at which the nozzle must be from the bed.
In the printer menu select “Machine leveling” then in the next menu enter “Calibrate Z” and click “Start”. This will bring the extruder block to the center of the bed leaving it at a medium height.
After this, you have to put an uncrumpled 80g sheet of paper on the bed and, pressing the nozzle down and nozzle up buttons, move the head until it presses the sheet without impeding its movement and press the “Accept” button, which will save the position and will reboot the system.
This step will have defined the relative height of the nozzle with respect to the bed.
calibración de las esquinas
The next step is to level the corners, so that they are all the same level.
To do this, you must enter the menu “Machine leveling” and press “Level bed”, in the menu the button in the lower left corner appears, which will take the extruder block to said corner.
Then you have to press the button in the lower left corner of the screen and put a piece of paper under the nozzle and using the wheel in its corner, adjust the nozzle until the piece of paper comes into contact with it without impeding its movement, the idea is that the nozzle is at the height of the sheet. Here it is important that the resistance of the foil is as similar as possible to that applied by the foil in the z calibration, since if there is a large difference the system will not be able to compensate for it automatically. Once this is done, we must press the “adjust screws” button on the screen, so the printer will take the level of the lower left corner as a reference and show the difference between the rest of the corners and this one.
Then we must adjust the wheels in the direction indicated by each corner. CW means clockwise CCW means counterclockwise, the figure displayed is in the format of minutes:seconds and every 00:60 or 1:00 is a complete revolution of the wheel.

Every time a modification is made, it is necessary to press the “Adjust screws” button again to recalculate the position of the bed. A deviation less than 00:02 is acceptable, although it is advisable to leave all values at 0.
It is advisable to adjust the 3 wheels taking into account that the movement of one will affect the other 2. That is, if one of the corners has a large difference, first you must adjust that until the 3 corners have approximate values and then you must adjust all at the same time.
Calculo de la inclinación de la cama
At this point you must return to the calibration window and press the bed tilt button. This will perform multiple probes in each of the corners of the bed. This step is to apply the deviation in tilt to the mesh that we will generate in the next step so that the printer can compensate it automatically.

The admitted limit is 0.02mm, if you are not able to enter that range, an error will appear. It is not important, you simply have to repeat the calculation process. If the error is repeated several times, it is because the deviation between the height of the z axis and that of the corners is excessive. In this case, the calibrations must be repeated again, trying to ensure that the pressure of the nozzle on the sheet is similar in both cases. Tilting the surface on which the printer stands could also prevent calibration.

Once the process is finished, press accept and the printer will restart. After restarting, the bed and extruder must be reheated.
Mesh generation
Once we reach this point, the calibration will be done. So all that remains is to generate the mesh of the bed, which is the map of the position of the bed with respect to the printer so that clipper knows where each coordinate of the printer is.

Press “Bed mesh” On that screen press “Calibrate” (in the upper right corner) and wait for it to finish. Press accept and wait for it to restart.
Vibration calibration
The printer tends to vibrate while operating which affects the quality of the surfaces to some extent. To avoid this, you can configure automatic compensation and to do this you must use the accelerometer that is included (check the manual to identify it, along with its cable and its screw (m3x16), it only comes in a bag)
It is necessary to make 2 measurements, the z-axis and the x-axis. To measure the z axis you have to screw the accelerometer to the back of the plastic extruder cover (it can be removed at the cost of losing the LED lighting but gaining a much better view of the print, but that is a personal decision ), for which the screw must be removed and replaced with the accelerometer screw, which is longer. For the x axis you have to remove one of the screws from the bed connector and screw the accelerometer in its place with its own screw. At the end of the measurements, the accelerometer must be removed and everything left as it was. It is important to respect the correct position of the accelerometer as it appears in the images in the manual.
Once the accelerometer is adjusted and connected, you must enter the settings/resonance correction/ section, wait for it to detect the sensor that is connected and press autocalibration. Now we have to select the axis where we have the sensor connected and wait for the process to finish. Important: It is necessary to choose the correct axis, since if we choose one that does not have the sensor or both, the printer (clipper) will remain blocked.

The procedure consists of vibrating the specific shaft at a series of predetermined frequencies and lasts a few minutes.

After completing the measurement, save, turn off the printer, connect the sensor to the other axis and repeat the procedure.

Note: It is important to leave the screws as they were or vibrations will occur during printing.

I include this part in the manual because the calibration is visually noticeable in the surface quality of the pieces.
First layer test print
Print a bed leveling test (anything works, the USB printer includes one or for example Prusa Mini First Layer Calibration Tool by KazaYuri - Thingiverse) The result must be clean and with marked print textures. If the layers come off or separate, you have to raise the bed, if there are scratches, marks or ironing, you have to lower the bed. To do this, during printing you have to press “Fine adjustment” and raise or lower it. I recommend doing it while printing and observing the result. When it seems to have improved, repeat the test as many times as necessary until the impression looks good. When you finish printing or cancel it, the printer gives us the option to save changes in the Z axis. Save the changes and wait for it to restart. If there is a big difference between the center and the corners, two things can be done:

  • Repeat the calibration process from the beginning, trying to ensure that the resistance of the sheet in the center and in the lower left corner is similar.
  • adjust the center perfectly by repeating the calibration tests, and manually adjust the sides and corners with the wheels, repeating the test until the result is perfect.
    There is no best solution, both methods have a high component that depends on the user’s perception and therefore arbitrary.

If you have read this far I hope it has helped you, after this you are left with the configuration of the laminator that you choose, I am now fighting (and losing) with the retractions and the damn hairs


I was more thinking that the OP should post how he / she did it, since his / hers post indicates that he / she is new to 3D printing. Perhaps more experienced users can spot something missing from the procedure.

Hi again! I stop using it because of frustration. I have done all the steps correectly. I followed more than one tutorial. I thought i had messed up so I even restored the machine to fabric settings, I reset it. But the problem still persists after callibrating all of it, the best I can. I followed every step but everytime I start printing the height is not correct, its to high so the piece cant be printed. This is being a big headache for me haha. Rarillo I guess by your name that you speak spanish, If u could help me with this, thank you! I will still try to find a solution, but so far couldnt fix it

Hello, indeed, I speak Spanish :smiley: From what you say, your problem comes from the last part of the process. Once you have done all the calibration part, you must print a first layer print test (any will do). At first, only the central part of the bed is important, which is what defines the z axis.

During the printing process, a button that says “fine adjustment” appears on the printer screen. Press it (this button only appears during printing).

On the next screen several buttons appear, here the important ones are the ones at the top where it says z+ (raises the relative position of the extruder) z- (lowers the relative position of the extruder) to the right a number appears which is the modification applied and Below two numbers (0.01 and 0.05) which is the modification to apply each time you press the other buttons.

The next buttons below have to do with extrusion speed and volume and that is best modified in the slicer.

Since from what you say, the deviation is high, as soon as the test printing process begins (in fact you can do it while the printer positions the head), enter the adjustment area, select 0.05 and press several times until adding 0.2 or 0.3 mm. and see the result in the print.

You do not need to complete the process, as this way you save time and filament. If you see that the extruder is still high, cancel the print, at this moment it will give you the option to save the changes in the position of the z axis, save them and write down the adjusted distance somewhere (this is important to be able to go back if you want). necessary.) By saving the changes you will have actually lowered the z axis until you modify it or recalibrate the machine.

Repeat the process (the calibration tests) until the z axis starts to get too low, you will see the surface of the test start to appear scratched, rough, grooved or flaky.

At that point, you may have the z axis about 0.1 mm too low, so do the same, but this time raising the extruder until the center of the bed comes out perfect, clean and shiny. When you finish printing, save the results and you will have correctly defined the z height.

Now you have to define the height of the corners, since if they are not level the nozzle will bump into the prints that are not in the center and pieces of plastic will fly out (it has happened to me). If you have been lucky in the initial calibration, the printer will compensate for it automatically. But that doesn’t usually happen, so here you have several options.

Manual: Test the first layer focusing on the corners and as soon as you see that a corner has a high z axis (the plastic fibers will open, it will come off or show open seams, lower that corner with its screw) or the z axis is low (grooves, flakes, rough surface will appear…) adjust the screw to raise or lower that corner. Repeat the process until all corners are perfect.

Automatic: Repeat the calibration process from the beginning, trying to make the resistance of the sheet in the center and in the lower left corner similar. This will allow the tolerance margin to automatically compensate the corners.

Automatica by Christian Vick additions: Printables use Christian Vick aditions which after a simple installation process on your printer, perfectly explained in a pdf included in the download, will greatly facilitate and improve the calibration and printing process.
Additionally, I recommend that you use the profiles for orcaslicer created by the same author, which you can find here Printables

You must understand that these additions, apart from some improvements in the situation of the purge zone, the modification of the gcode viewer does not eliminate the need for calibration. What it really does is execute an automatic compensation of the deviation of the corners before of each print, but the height of the z axis must be precisely calibrated for this to work, so you also have to repeat the trial and error process with the fine adjustment that I described before.

I hope all this helps you. Once the printer is calibrated it prints great but it can be a real pain to achieve :smiley:

Thank you so much for all your advices. I hope that by some point I will be able to achieve a good print hahahaha. I have realised that If I measure the distance for Z and change something called Z offset it prints at the right height. It doesnt print perfect but I will keep trying my best and following all your advices and trying to adjust everything! Also sometime the nozzle touches the piece I am printing… Is this always like this? haha Anyway, thanks a lot, I will try to fix all the problems and will come back here to update if I was able or not to fix it. thanks a lot for your help!

No, the nozzle should not be touching the piece you are printing, other than with the molten filament of the currently printing layer. Are you sure you have followed the initial instructions on how to check that all parts of the printer are secured and tight like they should be? The printhead and the carriage on which it is mounted shouldn’t have too much “wiggle”.

They are not wiggling, I havo got a friend that told me that maybe everything is too tight. Should I loosen some of the screws or that would be a bad idea? I haven’t done it but since I am having problems I thought that that might help aswell? I mean the screws of the rails for nozzle and heatbed

can the X axis move freely (well, except for the resistance of the belt and motor) when it is unpowered?
If it can move freely, it is alright. If it is hard to move it by hand, it is too tight.

Yes they both move with some resistance. But they do move, then I don’t know what’s causing that, today I have the time so I will run some tests and come back here to update. Thanks a lot for all your help