What is the recommended order to calibrate the printer>?

I mean it seems kinda obvious but I’m gonna ask anyway. What is the recommended order to calibrate the printer>? Bed leveling, Z-axis, Z-height or what?

I ask this because on the Elegoo, the obvious order is actually incorrect which apparently has been causing people problems.

I do a manual calibration of the Z-axis with soup cans (or whatever) to get the heights to match exactly before I do anything else.

Hello,

You don’t need to use soup cans to calibrate the sv06+.
There is a process witch is perfectly described in the user manual.

Need is subjective.
Can you answer the question?

This should help.

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Soup cans not needed… :wink: (this is almost a meme at this point after a couple of prominent 3d printing youtubers decided it was for some reason necessary - but it isn’t)

“Auto levelling” (16 point probe bed mesh) must always be done after “Auto Z-Align” (ramming the Z axis against the top) because every time you do the Auto Z-Align there is the possibility that the slant of the X-axis rail will be slightly different, this would invalidate the bed mesh.

The bed mesh should be able to compensate for a small inaccuracy in the Auto Z-Align process.

Other than that the order is not important. If you’re doing all three, do “Auto Z-Align” first.

Bed meshes are referenced to the middle of the bed (which is always considered to be zero height) so it doesn’t matter if you adjust the z axis offset or do the bed mesh first since the z axis offset is measured against the centre of the bed where the bed mesh should always be zero.

In theory once you have set the z axis offset correctly you should not need to touch it again unless you replace the nozzle or disassemble the extruder assembly as you are just calibrating the offset between the bed level probe and the tip of the extruder nozzle - this won’t change from print to print.

If it does, check the screw in the bottom of the heat block hasn’t come loose - mine had and was allowing the heat block to rotate and move up and down 0.3mm which was throwing the z axis offset out constantly.

From time to time you might need to redo the Auto Z-Align, especially if the printer has been disassembled or moved when powered down, after that the bed mesh will have to be done again as well, but z axis offset should stay correct.