I have been fighting with my new SV06 Plus since I received it earlier this week. Here’s the long story short:
The printer will be going fine, but somewhere down the print (not always the same spot) it will knock the item off of the build plate and ruin the whole job.
Some background:
I’m not new to 3D printing so I know the common pitfalls and have tried to cover for them. Examples are:
Tightening everything up
Putting it on a concrete floor to reduce vibration
Gone up and down temperatures in the extruder and the bed
Made sure that the bar with the hotend is level by manually turning the threaded rods (two empty soda cans, one underneath each side to make it so I was sure the bar was even).
Used Sovol’s default settings, as well as settings cutting the speed in half.
Rafts and brims all over the place
No Raspberry Pi or Klipper here, so exactly what came out of the box.
I’m using PLA to print. The items are taller than they are wide, the latest failure was essentially a cylinder 20mm wide and deep, 120mm tall. Brim was an extra 10mm on each side, temperatures at 215 nozzle and 65 bed (I’ve also tried 205 nozzle and 60 on the bed, and everything in between). I’ve leveled exactly like their instruction book says.
Is there something I’m missing here? I see people raving about how great this printer is, but it’s a really not-great scenario to have it holding up customer orders and spending the evenings trying to baby this into working. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated - I’ve got an SV07 on preorder and if I can’t get this one to work then there’s no point in trusting more money to Sovol.
Check the nozzle sock.
It doesn’t fit the heatblock right & hangs down on the thermistor/heater side.
You have to cut part of it away on the left upper corner for the wires to fit through.
Then the sock should fit on properly.
I’m exploring some stuff here at this moment. the Gayer anderson cat.
sized to 325mm tall 12% grid. and it sounds like a 12 year old running with a stick against the monkey cage.
The first attempt in prusaslicer (I should say I have 2 regular svo6, bearing and fan mods) got knocked clean off. the second had a centimeter layershift in the y mid print recovered and shifted the same amount in x later, finished. fugly, I’m cooking one that came right from the sovol cura.
Haven’t opened it since the 4.4 my tenlog used. dunno how many people are using the sovol link cura, but I just glanced thru and found both jerks set to 5 and the retraction set at 3mm.
so, yea… standard attention to detail
its currently 2/3 done, no layer shifts yet, nozzles strikes like a machine gun, and the godawful zebra ripple on the skin is much, much worse
So upfront, I had no intention of this ever being more than a verylarge test print.
this bog standard ugly silver from my MK3+ box suits…
the sovol cura fork slices @.32 noz set to .72 lines/ 2 perims. speeds all set to normal 60/80 stuff. 0.6/ retraction changed from 3 to 0.6 all else the preset .2 draft values.
Soooo much ugly in one print
the 10%grid showing thru 1.44MM of plastic, the wild occilation from the seam, the vaguely inconsistent layers, not enough to pinpoint, but there.
yea, its not a SV06, a SV06 is a pretty decent printer. once sorted quite a nice printer.
I have a few more issues than this but one was prints getting ‘knocked’. The issue I noticed was the pei sheet I received is not a good quality or defective. I have to use glue to get prints to stick. What you are likely seeing is prints start to come up partially and the print is knocking into the lifted side of the print breaking is loose all the way. I still have an open ticket to get my parts replaced.
Just to add some resolution - it actually wasn’t anything wrong with the slicer/nozzle/settings. Instead, a crack at the top of the hot end had been leaking filament up into the extruder, which was pushing the nozzle down just a little bit at a time. When I took it apart to see what was going on I was met with a solid block of PLA… So looks like I need to buy a new planetary extruder for the also new printer.
I think the lesson is disassemble and check all the things even if it’s supposed to be plug and play.
made a pair of these shades in this cape coddy blue/gray,. and they finished
now not purty, to be clear. Without the fuzzy skin those goobers would look like ,… more clearly defined goobers. But, I have a spot for 4 and thought this bone(polyterra mutedwhite) would mix/match well.
3 fails, all well past halfway, one came loose, then 10~20 layers later the second(2 on the plate caddycorner)
grabbed this Z test in 3 heights off the orange site.
added the 8mm hole…
anyway, I had been enjoying some nice first layers on the sv06 with a comgrow double, using the smooth side.
tried one on the +, Its not really 310x320, so tricky to place but big enough and after a quick A4 light tug offset , I sent it and it finished.
I noted a tiny bit of tower wiggle in the last 20 mm or so.
The pics are meh, but there is barely notable VFA, and a random chubby layer here and there
what I did not expect was the bottom when I picked it up as a clean cold release later on.
For skinny items 200mm+, it’s difficult for almost any printer to avoid wobble after a while unless you put special braces on it in the slicer (for example: design a 3x3mm rectangle, make it as long as needed, place it so it intersects with your item at 30°).
For the vase mode, I actually think that looks way better than a smooth version, so take that as you will. That one absolutely looks like vibrations, so see if something is vibrating near your machine or your machine is going too fast. One of the calibration cubes will tell you a lot.
That one absolutely looks like vibrations, so see if something is vibrating near your machine or your machine is going too fast. One of the calibration cubes will tell you a lot.