SV06 - Overhangs curling upwards, making nozzle knock over the print

SV06 is my first 3d printer so I don’t have experience with 3d printers.
I cannot finish any print with overhangs, it fails even at 3d benchy that came on included SD card.
Basically overhangs are curling up, nozzle hitting it, disconnecting the print from the bed.
I’ve been struggling with this issue since I received my SV06. It’s very strange that none of SV06 reviewers mention this issue, all of them printed 3d benchy from included SD card from the first try with no tinkering whatsoever. Sadly, I can’t compete even the most basic print.

Here is my settings:
• Filament: included white PLA or Fiberlogy Easy PLA (same result)
• 185ºC (nozzle)
• 60ºC (bed)
• Fan 100%
• Print speed: 50mm/s
• 0,2mm Layer Height
• 0.4mm retraction at 35mm/s

What helped me a bit is cutting print speed in half around overhangs, but for some reason it also often lead to filament grinding by extruder gear and clogged nozzle.

Some users recommend to increase part cooling but it’s already running at 100%. Is my part cooling fan faulty? Has anyone experienced poor performance of part cooling and how to fix it?

Please check attached photos and video:




@kord2003 This curling occurs due to insufficient part cooling. Having said that, the curling you’re experiencing is not terrible, and normally there should be no knocking down of the print occurring. The issue at hand is bed adhesion; you’re part is not sticking well to the print surface. Try the following without changing any other settings:

  • Add a brim that is 10 lines wide, and set the brim distance to 0.4.
  • Increase bed temperature to 70C

You can probably skip my points above and simply apply dollar store glue stick or hair spray to the print bed (several layers) and you’ll be able to complete the print successfully without changing any other settings.

I’m sure that printer should be able to print 3d benchy without brim, glue stick or increased bed temperature. I have very little experience with 3d printing, but there must be something wrong with my SV06 if part cooling running at 100% is “insufficient cooling”.

@bassamanator did you manage to print 3d benchy gcode from provided SD card using PLA filament?
Could you please share a photo of overhang part? Is part cooling works correctly on your SV06?

Your Z offset might be set slightly too high. When you set that during your initial setup, you might have it just a bit high. I’d try resetting that and go just a touch lower than you think you need (it shouldn’t touch the bed, but it does get very close).

If you’re pretty sure that Z offset is set right, you might have an issue where your bed cooled down too much during the print. I noticed my printer in the basement might get a cool enough blast of air on really cold evenings that a print might loosen up. The bed temp itself didn’t drop as far as I saw, but it was cold enough that the print itself detached. I had the printer next to a closed window (but the windows are a bit drafty) - moving it into an enclosure fixed that up.

I used this to get the first layer pretty much perfect on mine, but it’s not critical unless you just want a perfectly even first layer:

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

It not cooling. It the lack of heat that causing your print to fail. It why your nozzle is clogged up. Not enough heat to melt the filament when you get further away from the bed.

Up your nozzle temperature to at least 210c.

Bed temperature to at least 70c. Put glue stick on bed if you have it.

Turn your fan speed to 75% or less.

My friend, you have the wrong attitude about this hobby. In this hobby, the name of the game is problem solving. At this price range, there are too many variables that come into a successful print, making it not a plug and print process. There’s a lot of troubleshooting that is off-loaded onto the customer.

I’m on several Sovol forums, and have seen some people with who have real problems with their Sovol machines, right from the factory. At this point, it looks like you have a completely 100% perfect machine, but the wrong attitude.

But what do I know? I only have 600+ print hours worth of experience and have built my own Voron.

Thank you for feedback, but unfortunately it’s not relevant for my case.

  1. I clean my bed with 95 ethanol before every print.
  2. I spent hours adjusting bed leveling and Z offset calibration, now it’s perfect for the whole bed. I get perfect first layer on my benchies and it sticks to the bed very good. I even tried to print half-benchy with a big brim on first layer with the same result. The brim sticks so good that it’s very hard to detach it with bare hands, however nozzle still knocks it over when hitting hardened curled plastic.
  3. I print in a room with constant temperature 23ºC, no drafts, no opened windows. Bed temp never drops below 60ºC.

To summarize: I’m 100% sure that bed adhesion is not the cause of my print failures. It’s uneven cooling of sharp overhangs, which causes them to bend upwards and then harden, becoming an obstacle for moving nozzle.

Unless it in the middle of summer with no air conditioning, 185c isn’t enough heat to effectively melt pla filament. I’ll bet the printer is printing the benchy at 60mm/s or higher.

His clogging is due to filament not melting. The further you move away the bed the less heat the nozzle get from bedding. That’s means in a cold room the filament will stop melting at some point causing a jam.

The first step to fixing this is rise the nozzle and bed temperature and lower fan speed. You can worry about overhang and whatever after a successful print. If rising the temperature fix it you don’t need to go to the next step.

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Thank you for feedback, I’ll try to use your settings today and get back with the result.
But I’m still confused why reviewers and other people on the internet were able to print 3d benchy using gcode from stock SD card (185C/60C/100% fan).
I think my 3d printer is faulty. Maybe it’s a faulty fan or a temperature sensors on hot end and/or bed?

@bassamanator I’m not afraid of tinkering. I have technical skills and tools to modify both hardware and software.
I bought my first 3d printer knowing that there is a steep learning curve in this hobby and knowledge/skills/experience are much more important than hardware.
I just want to have a baseline before I start tinkering and upgrading and I treat included 3d benchy gcode as a benchmark. You might say that my expectations are too high, but I expect that a new 3d printer should be able to print the most basic 3d model using the most easy filament after initial setup.
My expectations are based on other users experience since I don’t see tons of similar issues on reddit, sovol forum and sovol user group on Facebook. Reviewers don’t mention curling issue and were able to print benchy from stock gcode.
Which leads to assumption that my 3d printer is faulty and I need to contact sovol for replacement parts.

@bassamanator @Kgluong @AdamByram did you manage to print 3d benchy gcode from the stock SD card with PLA? Please share your results.

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From my experience increasing the nozzle temperature while slowing down the print speed causes heat creep and clogged nozzle. But I cannot say for sure because extraction gear spring was a bit loose which might be the cause of filament grinding. Now I tightened the gear spring, let’s see if I encounter filament grinding again.

But I’ll try to print with (210C/70C/75% fan) and let you know the result.

Yes, no issues for me. I printed the benchy gcode strait from the SD with the little white PLA sample right out of the box. No issue at all. I aligned Z, set the Z-height, mesh bed leveled, then started up the print. No changes at all to the gcode or overriding the temp or anything - printed great.

I print PLA hotter than 185 - usually at 210 for me - and it works better, but that sample did print perfect for me at the same 185C/60C temp using their white PLA.

New settings:
Nozzle: 210C
Bed: 70C
Fan: 75%
Print speed: 50mm/s
Brim was added for better adhesion and print stability.

The result is the same, print was knocked over by nozzle.

@Kgluong Any ideas?

Which way is that oriented on your bed? I don’t have a SV06, but it looks like the fan duct only comes in from one direction? My guess would be that you’re actually getting TOO MUCH cooling onto that piece of overhang/bridge. If you look at your bow, it’s gorgeous and clean, but it’s also facing the other direction, so the air flow is likely hitting it more favorably.

A) I 100% agree that your printer should 100% work right out of the box as they have advertised it heavily as a “plug and print” solution, and B) 100% they would not ship you a slab of Gcode if it weren’t going to work straight away because they are sending everyone that exact same code… If this is something you sliced yourself, that opens up a lot of different areas that this can be fixed. Finally - C) I do NOT think this is a “bad printer” situation. The rest of the model looks great, so don’t give up hope yet.

Different environment, ie room ambient temperature. From what you posted the clogging and failure location is a good indication of the filament not melting fast enough.

The reason you didn’t have clogging near the bed level is due to the extra heat provided by the bed. When you move further away from rhe bed you get less heat from the bedding. 185c is very low for pla.

I currently print overture pla at 215c, 70c bed, and 75% fan inside an enclosure. The garage temperature is -1 degree. Inside the enclosure is around 25c. My printers that aren’t inside an enclosure is hibernating for the entire winter.

Starting at 7:10 mark he move his printer to a different room and his prints started to fail.

How does the first layer looks like? Is your first layers warping? It could be a bed leveling issue.

Do a z-alligment first. Than bed leveling. Z-offset.

Is “enabled retraction” on? By default it should be on in cura and other slicer.

@Kgluong please stop. You are not helping. Your messages are not even remotely relevant to my problem. Do you even read my posts in this thread?

Why do you even mention clogging? Clogging is my least problem right now, it happened once or twice and I’m not sure if it was caused by heat creep due to slow printing with high temperature or weak tension of extruder gear which lead to filament grinding. Now it’s fixed, forget about it.

I have a stable room temperature. I have a good adhesion and nice first layer.
I’m not printing in a garage at -1C.
I’m not moving my printer from room to room!
185C is not low, it’s default temperature for stock 3d benchy from SD card and @AdamByram confirmed that he printed stock benchy gcode and it was great.
Retraction doesn’t matter because I’m trying to print a gcode from SD card.

@Kgluong you are throwing a lot of ideas but all of them are irrelevant because you are ignoring the main issue - overhangs curling upwards, making nozzle knock over the print.

  1. Bed adhesion is your primary issue.
  2. Poor part cooling is an ancillary issue. In this case, it is exacerbating your primary issue. Under normal circumstances, with proper bed adhesion and with the amount of part curling you’re experiencing, your prints would succeed.

Also post a pic of the bottom of your first layer, it can help us eliminate some issues. You will find what first layers should look like here. Bookmark that link, it is the print tuning bible for all serious 3D printer users.

I didn’t see any mention of z hop in this thread. If I turn that off, it scrapes some prints. My benchy on the SV06 worked with a z hop, I haven’t tried a benchy without it though. I just use .5mm. Sorry if you’ve already tried this, good luck.