Problems with z-axis being around 10mm too high

Sovol SV07 Plus
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1

Hello,

Since I am new here on the forum, I would first like to say hello and thank you for having this forum, where I hope to learn a lot and receive help.

I have had a Sovol SV07 for about two years now, and it has generally served me well. Unfortunately, I am now facing a problem that I can no longer solve on my own, partly because I am still a beginner when it comes to 3D printing .

My printer seems to have an issue with the Z-axis, which sits about 10 mm too high above the print bed after bed levelin g.

So far, I have printed many small items for model building and tabletop games on my SV07. I performed bed leveling at regular intervals, and it was always successful. Now I want to use the entire build volume because I would like to print some props for cosplay. During my last print, I noticed warping in two diagonal corners, causing these corners to detach from the print bed. I also had rough spots in the first layer in several other areas. After that, I tried to perform bed leveling. I followed the same steps as befo re:

· Z-calibrate

· Z-tilt

· Bed leveling

· Bed mesh

Already during the first step, “Z-calibrate,” I noticed that the nozzle was unusually high above the print bed. I tried lowering the nozzle using the buttons, but after two 5 mm adjustments, I received an “Out of range” error mess age.

I still tried to carry out the bed leveling, but I had to unscrew the screws under the bed far too much—some of them even started to come loose. After several attempts, I managed it with the screws almost completely unscrewed, but when I performed another Z-calibrate afterward, the nozzle was too high a gain.

At this point, I simply don’t know what to do anymore. I have heard that you can adjust the Z-offset in the cfg file, but I have not dared to touch the cfg file due to my limited knowledge. I also wonder whether that would be a sustainable solution, since it worked b efore.

Could it be a problem with the height sensor?

It might also be important to mention that during the last few bed levelings, I had issues with the automatic Z-tilt as well. The automatic Z-tilt always took forever and ended with an error message. I then unlocked the motors and manually adjusted the Z-axis using a ruler and by turning the threaded rods on the backside. Could I have caused the error while doi ng this?

Please let me know if you need more inf ormation.

Thank you very much for your help!

Daniel.

2

Sounds like your Z-Offset is off.
Have you replace a nozzle recently..??
If not Raise the Z to the very top & look to see if the tip has broken off.
Depending how much you print, a nozzle usually has to be replaced within 6-12 months.

3

My SV07 had a similar problem, moving the eccentric adjuster on the roller behind the nozzle to increase tension solved my problem.

Then perform the “paper test”, being sure to save settings tight after. This should save a new Z offset to printer.cfg. Once saved then “home all” and lower your nozzle to 0.

Watch the light on the sensor during the Z tilt adjust procedure. Does it flicker or blink other than when the nozzle is close to the bed? NOTE the switch distance is not adjustable. Mine switches when the nozzle is 3.5mm (or so) above the build plate.

I keep mine with the left rear snugged down. This bolt passes through the strain relief for the bed heater cables. That causes it to be the first one to bottom out. Tighten all 4 1 turn at a time until the LR gets “tight”. Back off a tiny bit then run the “screw height” macro. If you touch the square where the The LR adjustment shows KlipperScreen will 0 that square and recalculate the others. Run “screw height” over and over until it is as good as possible.

Home all
Z tilt adjust
Bed mesh
Paper test (again)
Save and restart.

I only run bed mesh when I have first layer issues NOT every print. I use Christian Vicks “Printer additions”. The package includes macros to mesh the bed at several temperatures then load the closest one during the “start print” process. It has worked flawlessly for me.

4

Thank you both for your suggested solutions, which unfortunately I won’t be able to test until Wednesday when I have time to do so. I will report back on whether it helped.

5

Today I was finally able to take another look at my SV07. I removed the extruder because I noticed the rubber cover on the heating unit. Apparently, I have never changed the nozzle! (Shame on me :blush:) I didn’t know this kind of rubber cover from my old printer. When I removed the rubber cover, I saw that a lot of burnt filament is stuck there. Could this be causing the problem I described above? What should I pay attention to when cleaning the heating unit?

I’m unsure how far I need to screw the nozzle into the heating unit. With the rubber cover on, the wrench eventually loses its grip. Should I only screw it in that far? My old printer didn’t have such a rubber cover, so I always screwed the nozzle all the way in until it stopped.

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The tip of the nozzle seems to be worn down by at most 1 mm. I don’t think that was the cause of my problem. (old nozzle on the right)

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6

What do you mean by a rubber cover? Is it the rubber sock on the hotend?

I would advise against removing it permanently. It is very useful for preventing burns.

In any case, your nozzle looks very burnt and worn. Don’t forget to heat up the hotend to 200°C before disassembling and reassembling it (mind your fingers!!!) When it is hot, you can screw it in until it touches; there is no need to go any further.