Update finally got around to my oldham thingamabobs.
It started off wrong i greased them but that seems to cause some binding in the oldham now after cleaning them they do show improvement.
I have the leadscrew nut going imside so i dont lose any height and the two rings on top of the leadscrew are still in place.
Sweet, do you know what type or have a link for the âoldham couplingsâ you used ? and are you still using the original Lead Screws or you change them over ? im not sure what type original ones are ?, Ive got a heap 8mm/2mm pitch/single start/ Lead Screws , either way you canât just post a picture like that without handing over the details, lol
Awesome print mate,
1-Pack Ender 3 Oldham Clutch for Upgrade CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 Pro V2 3S CR10S PRO 3D Printer Z Axis 8mm Lead Screw Hotbed Advoid Radial Misalignment (Oldham Clutch) https://amzn.eu/d/1FrToSr
Not sure if this works but they are also available on aliexpress for a quarter of the price i used a gift card on amazon otherwise i wouldnt order it for 20 bucks each.
They are original leadscrews and the t nut is just relocated into the top of the oldham.
Its kinda stupid how simple that oldham is and people are squaring and straightening their printers but this seems to fix it in no time at all.
Lubrication go for oil type not grease that seems to cause a bit of binding for me
Thanks im happy as a kid now to fix stringing haha
Cheers for the reply mate, much appreciated 
In the same way that its normal to see a coating of crud on ball joints, CV boots, Rear main seals, Etc
That have been leaking.
Look at the end of the noz, should be a nice defined ring of contact, where it sealed against its mating surface on the heatbreak.
Nice Pic for teaching, should be pinned in the beginners nozzle change thread.
You have a tiny leak, or, just mashed a gob of pla in the joint during the last change, either way, it carbonized before escaping, if the leak is a bit bigger⌠hehe those pics are already in the aforementioned thread
