Not sure how I discovered this but the video shows the issue. At first it was only the right-hand side and the left was rock solid. But after doing the soup can method, now they both do it. So I’m wondering if this is “working as designed” and everybody else’s does this as well, or I have a problem.
My Z-axis is not aligned particualrly well, and I’ve tried all the methods found in countless YT videos. But I still seem to have an issue where on the RH side of the bed the printed filament isn’t as close to the bed at it is on the LH side. Things printed on the LH side, the bottom layer is a nice image of the PEI sheet, while things printed at the RH side you can still see the diagonal individual filament lines. Brims printed on the LH side are hard to get off, while ones from the RH side basically fall off by just looking at them. It seems to be a fairly common problem but I’ve not been able to fix it.
So I thought this looseness or wobble in the gantry might be causing it, but I don’t think so now.
Note about the video - it was originally ~27 seconds long and showed me wiggling both sides. However, the file size limit is 8MB while the orginal video was 48MB. So I had to shorten it an resize to get it under 8.
Any thoughts much appreciated.
I don’t think the wobble you’re seeing when you pull on that part is particularly bad - it’s a little bit, but shouldn’t be enough to make a difference from left to right (assuming both sides are doing it).
I had to level my gantry for something similar. You probably saw the trick looking things up, but it doesn’t hurt to check. Essentially, I had it go to the top of the Z-axis with the screw on and let it grind a little bit. Then, I put two soda cans on the plate next to each lead screw. I lowered the gantry down to a couple of inches away from the cans, then turned the machine off entirely. Then, I hand-turned the rods to make the gantry go down until it was pushing up against the cans. I could control each side independently (a bit, they still had to be close), but since then I’ve had zero problems.
I hope this helps!
Hey @CustomMadeFast, thanks for your reply. I did try the soup-can method and did what I thought was a reasonable job with it. Seems like the bed sticking is a little better now.
One thing I also did was switch to Cura slicer 5.3.1 rather than the Sovol version, but the first thing I printed looks like shite on the z-axis:
That has to be the worst Z-axis I’ve printed. Not sure if it’s z-axis adjustment or Cura slicer. One thing I noticed is that the same model sliced in Cura was about 1 MB smaller (gcode). At first I thought it was more efficient, but now I’m not so sure. I plan to print the Sovol-sliced version and see how it compares.
Another thing is that it could be the filament - it was a new reel unsealed just before I ran the print. It’s pretty dry here at the moment. After I’d removed the piece from the build plate, it felt greasy and sticky, and after removing the brim and cleaning it up my hands we really sticky. Not experienced that before. This reel is “silver” colour, and looks like it has some metal flake in it (not much, from a distance it looks like plain-old grey).
Late but to me it seems your threadscrew nut is ducked mine is solid on both sides no noticeable up amd down movement.
Also for zwobble try drying your filament as well it may make a big difference.
And pid tune doesnt hurt as well