Dual z alignment on sv07

Hello sv07 users,

I have a problem with dual z alignment on sv07.
The left side is (i used 10cm 100mm from base under x axes) its 100mm but on the right side is 3mm higher when little move down it stays so. How to fix that is there a pdf video ir something to do.
Allso when i used the nuts nit the spring i now the bed is 100 calibrated but with nesh compensated.
No where z tile the point are the same -0.04 if i look how high is its all most the same. Z tile comensate that.
But i will alignment gantry z xaxes to good as posible.
When inprint on some print the nizzle or fan part plastick blower when gies left to right etc it hit the part but it will stay on bed. But with some other parts it will removed fron bed. I think the platic fan part hit the object.

Who has know how to calibrate first alignment the z axes.
Gr. Marco

Blue base 100mm other 103mm red bed.

I am not sure if I understand fully, but the tilted x-axis is quite common, due to bad preassembly. In general, it would be better to build it up correctly with all 90° angles and correct hights (e.g. blue arrows), but it is a bit advanced and I wouldnt recommend for total beginners.
What I did instead was: I aliegned the x-axis as horizontal as possible with respect to the base plate, then i manually aligned the bed screws to have it ok aligned to the top frame bar. So now I have the bed parallel/perpendicular to the (skewed) frame, which is not nice, but it works. Then By doing the tilt compensation it will level according to the preset bed. and now the x-axis gantry is also parallel to the frame and to the bed. Then I do the z-probe calibration, then bed mesh, then everything is good and prints come out straight. If you have further problems you could use klippers skew correction, but i dont.
The best would be, to disassmbel everything and build up the frame properly with nice 90° angles and correct distances.

Thanks for yoursinfo.
Did have some documents how to or video expkainbto do it best 90 degtes.

Gr. Marco

I have not seen an complete clean build video of an SV07, but the basic ideas are quite well explained in that video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q .
I would treat the dual z rods as the 2nd wasnt there and leave it more or less detached during alignment, and fix it only at the end.
Since the old ender 3 is not exactly the same like this one, there are some SEVERE differences, so I dont advice you to just blindly disassemble, be prepared.

Hello again i have test everything its ok now the bed with notch caused it but z tilt correct that good. I have now the print with wheels for test. Blue arrows are correct and the red. But i have now other problem when i slice thing from adams family with the fingers up still or loose not stickey with a brim etc use the sovol cura slicer.
How can i fix it?

Hello, this is going a bit off-topic, so please check out the following things on the internet and in your cura profile.:
z-height, leveling,mesh-bed leveling, first layer, initial layer flow, initial layer height

What I do is: align plate to frame manually ( what you already did ), heatbed to 60deg, Home, z-tilt adjust, nozzle to 200deg. do z-calibrate via menu. save. turn on heat of bed again. wait. home, z-tilt adjust, home. meshbed.
with this you should have a really good starting point for consistent first layers.

the thing you need to do then is: set initial layer height to 0.24 and initial layer flow to 120% and print a 5x5cm thin object ( the first layers of a cube for example ). By using “fine tune” on the machine control you adjust z by 0.01 steps until the layers form nicely, dont separate and dont scroll up. when you are finished you save new z- offset via the touchpad and then you are done pretty much for good.

after this everything is quite reproducable. heat bed, home, ztilt, home, print your stuff. should work like charm but please take your time to understand the leveling process in general or 3d printing will be hell for you :stuck_out_tongue:

Besides this. Thin and tall prints are really not easy. I suggest you use a lot of brims. maybe like 1cm around your model.

ok this became much more elaborate than i wanted it to be, but its a pretty complete walkthrough.

good luck

Thanks for the info. But on my kobra 2 i can print the thing hand. But he has a small extrude head sv 07 is big.
But have now the springs iand will adjast printer cofig file 5x5 point but 7x7 point for bed mesh. Orca slicer profiel from cristian vick.

OrcaSlicer Config Files for Sovol SV07, V1.0b1
Good day. :slight_smile: OrcaSlicer has all the features of PrusaSlicer, and more (ie built-in calibration prints, multiple build plates, etc).
OrcaSlicer also has a better usability.
These are configuration files to make Sovol’s SV07 work with OrcaSlicer.

If you want to reward my work, you can do so via PayPal.Me
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Thank you!

How to install this configuration

If you have an older version of my configuration, delete that text portion from your ‘printer.cfg’ first.
Delete from “START Christian Vick’s configuration…” up to “END Christian Vick’s configuration…”.
Copy the entire text of the file “01 Into Klipper ‘printer.cfg’.”, and paste it into the top of your existing ‘printer.cfg’ file.
Do not delete or replace anything in your existing ‘printer.cfg’.
You will find the ‘printer.cfg’ file in the printer’s webinterface in your webbrowser.
Just enter the IP address of your SV07 in your browser’s address field.
You will find the printer’s IP address in the interface of your router. :wink:


• 2nd Part Fan:
You can set the 2nd part fan to the following options:
• Let it run by 100% as soon the normal part fan spins.
• Let it run by the same percentage the normal part fan runs.
• Turn it off: Not gcode-controlled, you may control it via the slider manually.
There are buttons for the 2nd fan in the Macro section.
You can switch between the options while a print is running

• Perfect first layers, automated!
Because the bed is only attached to 4 screws (no middle fixing point), it can be challenging to get the perfect first layer reproducible. This is because the bed reacts quite sensitive to temperature changes, so you always have to re-create the bed mesh, if you print with different bed temperatures.
In the Macros, there’s a button, named “Mesh_Create_Calibrations_For_All_Temperatures”.
This button will create different bed meshes in steps of 10°C, and saves them permanently to the config-file, while you lazely drink your coffee and watch it happen.
These saved meshes will then be automatically used, according to the print temperature, when a print starts. Super convenient, precise, and saves tons of time.

• Speed:
• PETG Config: Prints a Benchy in 28 minutes, in perfect quality (Preset “Faster”). This should even work without the 2nd (loud) part fan, and is just 3 minutes longer than Sovol’s 25-minutes PLA Benchy (with fan).
• PLA Config: The benchy prints in 24 minutes, with the “Fastest” setting, in very good quality, but I’m not sure if it works with the stock cooling (2nd part fan).
Please report.

• Smarter bed/nozzle heating:
The print starts faster, because the bed will heat with full power to it’s target temp.
The Nozzle pre-heats to a lower temperature first, to prevent ouzing, and is ready when the bed is ready, again to minimize ouzing.

• Nozzle priming & cleaning during print-start:
• ON/OFF buttons for prime-line(s) at left / front, and a spiral, which cleans the nozzle more reliable, and gives you an instant impression about the z-height (too deep if no gaps are visible).
• Lines are thicker, and easier to remove from the bed.
• Lines are printed outside the model area, so you don’t have to remove them hastily during the print with large models.
• Option to cut off excess filament by a “Samurai” move at the bed edge. Hai!

• No G2/3/17 errors during print.

• The nozzle does not push the print model from the bed (and no loud “click”-sounds during print).

• The calculated print time is not so far from reality.

• Fast and precise bed mesh probing.

• Knobs (Macros) for bed-mesh calibrate (for every 10°C, or for all at once).

Tipps & Notes:

• Before printing, create one time the bed meshes with the button “Mesh_Create_Calibrations_For_All_Temperatures”:
You find this button in the Macro section.
Over 40°C room temperature, the macro will refuse to create bed meshes.
It’s best to do it with the bed cooled down to room temperature,
because the Z-Tilt calibration should always run at room temperature.
In printer.cfg, search the text-block ‘[bed_mesh]’, and change the ‘speed’ parameter to 300, to get much faster bed-mesh probing.
After creating all meshes, you may have a look at them in fluidd, by loading them in the order of temperature.
Should you see an annormal spike in them, that probing point has failed (but happens very rarely).
To re-create a single bed mesh (just for one specific temperature), you can do so by using the sub-macros, named like “MESH_CREATE_CALIBRATION_60” (“60” stands for the bed temperature).
If you do, don’t forget to save that mesh.

• For high speed printing with large models, you MAY need to use the vendor’s max recommended filament temperature, or even more.

• Volumetric limitation
If your filament can’t keep up with the speed, don’t change all the speed parameters.
Instead, just lower in the Filament’s settings the “Volumetric speed limitation”.
It is so much simpler and effective. :slight_smile:
At 18-20 mm3/s is the SV07’s volumetric maximum.
Problems are well and quickly visible if you print a large first layer area. To do so, put a simple cube (under “Add primitive…”) onto Orca’s plate, and change the cube dimensions to 220 x 200 x 0.20 mm.
While the first layer prints, you can experiment with the general speed slider in fluidd, and in the printers display you can watch the actual flow rate (mm3/s)…

• Cooling & high speed printing
Probably you will have to experiement with cooling yourself. I use my fan mods, and I will not go back to the ear-crushing stock fans.
For the benchy benchmark print, let me know if you think other cooling settings are better for the stock fans, and I will probably put them into the next release.
Keep in mind that every print model is different. Larger models than the benchy are more likely to work better, as their layer time in higher, so cooling becomes less an issue.
Squeezing out the last percent of speed is a time consuming process, and I question if it’s worth it - especially for small models.
Bonus: If you let the machine run somewhere under it’s limit, it will thank you with lifetime.

• Presets & Benchy printing
• PETG: Use print settings “Fast” or “Faster”. Let the large part fan off (in the Macro-section).
• PLA: If you use the print setting “Fastest”, you can try the fan with “Percent”, otherwise use “Full”.

Version 1.0b1 Changes (previous version was “v03”)

• More options to use the 2nd part fan (see Features below).
• Bed mesh calibration:
• Will now adjust the Z-Tilt before mesh calibration.
• Is faster (heating and probe speed), and has more probe points (7x7 = 49).
It takes just 20 minutes to create all meshes at that precision, if you follow the advise in “Notes & Tipps”.
• New Pre-Print Options (see “Features”).
• Optimizations and changes at every corner.
• Bug fixes.
• Some cleanup (hey, it even has a real version number now! :wink:

• Read me.
• Orca Printer config file.
• Orca print settings config files(s).
• Orca PETG filament config file(s).
• Orca PLA filament config file(s).
• Klipper additions, to paste them into the “printer.cfg” file.

Disclaimer: Use the configuration files entirely at your own risk.

Happy fast printing! :slight_smile:
Christian Vick