Thanks for the info. But on my kobra 2 i can print the thing hand. But he has a small extrude head sv 07 is big.
But have now the springs iand will adjast printer cofig file 5x5 point but 7x7 point for bed mesh. Orca slicer profiel from cristian vick.
OrcaSlicer Config Files for Sovol SV07, V1.0b1
Good day. OrcaSlicer has all the features of PrusaSlicer, and more (ie built-in calibration prints, multiple build plates, etc).
OrcaSlicer also has a better usability.
These are configuration files to make Sovol’s SV07 work with OrcaSlicer.
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How to install this configuration
If you have an older version of my configuration, delete that text portion from your ‘printer.cfg’ first.
Delete from “START Christian Vick’s configuration…” up to “END Christian Vick’s configuration…”.
Copy the entire text of the file “01 Into Klipper ‘printer.cfg’.”, and paste it into the top of your existing ‘printer.cfg’ file.
Do not delete or replace anything in your existing ‘printer.cfg’.
You will find the ‘printer.cfg’ file in the printer’s webinterface in your webbrowser.
Just enter the IP address of your SV07 in your browser’s address field.
You will find the printer’s IP address in the interface of your router.
• 2nd Part Fan:
You can set the 2nd part fan to the following options:
• Let it run by 100% as soon the normal part fan spins.
• Let it run by the same percentage the normal part fan runs.
• Turn it off: Not gcode-controlled, you may control it via the slider manually.
There are buttons for the 2nd fan in the Macro section.
You can switch between the options while a print is running
• Perfect first layers, automated!
Because the bed is only attached to 4 screws (no middle fixing point), it can be challenging to get the perfect first layer reproducible. This is because the bed reacts quite sensitive to temperature changes, so you always have to re-create the bed mesh, if you print with different bed temperatures.
In the Macros, there’s a button, named “Mesh_Create_Calibrations_For_All_Temperatures”.
This button will create different bed meshes in steps of 10°C, and saves them permanently to the config-file, while you lazely drink your coffee and watch it happen.
These saved meshes will then be automatically used, according to the print temperature, when a print starts. Super convenient, precise, and saves tons of time.
• PETG Config: Prints a Benchy in 28 minutes, in perfect quality (Preset “Faster”). This should even work without the 2nd (loud) part fan, and is just 3 minutes longer than Sovol’s 25-minutes PLA Benchy (with fan).
• PLA Config: The benchy prints in 24 minutes, with the “Fastest” setting, in very good quality, but I’m not sure if it works with the stock cooling (2nd part fan).
• Smarter bed/nozzle heating:
The print starts faster, because the bed will heat with full power to it’s target temp.
The Nozzle pre-heats to a lower temperature first, to prevent ouzing, and is ready when the bed is ready, again to minimize ouzing.
• Nozzle priming & cleaning during print-start:
• ON/OFF buttons for prime-line(s) at left / front, and a spiral, which cleans the nozzle more reliable, and gives you an instant impression about the z-height (too deep if no gaps are visible).
• Lines are thicker, and easier to remove from the bed.
• Lines are printed outside the model area, so you don’t have to remove them hastily during the print with large models.
• Option to cut off excess filament by a “Samurai” move at the bed edge. Hai!
• No G2/3/17 errors during print.
• The nozzle does not push the print model from the bed (and no loud “click”-sounds during print).
• The calculated print time is not so far from reality.
• Fast and precise bed mesh probing.
• Knobs (Macros) for bed-mesh calibrate (for every 10°C, or for all at once).
Tipps & Notes:
• Before printing, create one time the bed meshes with the button “Mesh_Create_Calibrations_For_All_Temperatures”:
You find this button in the Macro section.
Over 40°C room temperature, the macro will refuse to create bed meshes.
It’s best to do it with the bed cooled down to room temperature,
because the Z-Tilt calibration should always run at room temperature.
In printer.cfg, search the text-block ‘[bed_mesh]’, and change the ‘speed’ parameter to 300, to get much faster bed-mesh probing.
After creating all meshes, you may have a look at them in fluidd, by loading them in the order of temperature.
Should you see an annormal spike in them, that probing point has failed (but happens very rarely).
To re-create a single bed mesh (just for one specific temperature), you can do so by using the sub-macros, named like “MESH_CREATE_CALIBRATION_60” (“60” stands for the bed temperature).
If you do, don’t forget to save that mesh.
• For high speed printing with large models, you MAY need to use the vendor’s max recommended filament temperature, or even more.
• Volumetric limitation
If your filament can’t keep up with the speed, don’t change all the speed parameters.
Instead, just lower in the Filament’s settings the “Volumetric speed limitation”.
It is so much simpler and effective.
At 18-20 mm3/s is the SV07’s volumetric maximum.
Problems are well and quickly visible if you print a large first layer area. To do so, put a simple cube (under “Add primitive…”) onto Orca’s plate, and change the cube dimensions to 220 x 200 x 0.20 mm.
While the first layer prints, you can experiment with the general speed slider in fluidd, and in the printers display you can watch the actual flow rate (mm3/s)…
• Cooling & high speed printing
Probably you will have to experiement with cooling yourself. I use my fan mods, and I will not go back to the ear-crushing stock fans.
For the benchy benchmark print, let me know if you think other cooling settings are better for the stock fans, and I will probably put them into the next release.
Keep in mind that every print model is different. Larger models than the benchy are more likely to work better, as their layer time in higher, so cooling becomes less an issue.
Squeezing out the last percent of speed is a time consuming process, and I question if it’s worth it - especially for small models.
Bonus: If you let the machine run somewhere under it’s limit, it will thank you with lifetime.
• Presets & Benchy printing
• PETG: Use print settings “Fast” or “Faster”. Let the large part fan off (in the Macro-section).
• PLA: If you use the print setting “Fastest”, you can try the fan with “Percent”, otherwise use “Full”.
Version 1.0b1 Changes (previous version was “v03”)
• More options to use the 2nd part fan (see Features below).
• Bed mesh calibration:
• Will now adjust the Z-Tilt before mesh calibration.
• Is faster (heating and probe speed), and has more probe points (7x7 = 49).
It takes just 20 minutes to create all meshes at that precision, if you follow the advise in “Notes & Tipps”.
• New Pre-Print Options (see “Features”).
• Optimizations and changes at every corner.
• Bug fixes.
• Some cleanup (hey, it even has a real version number now!
• Read me.
• Orca Printer config file.
• Orca print settings config files(s).
• Orca PETG filament config file(s).
• Orca PLA filament config file(s).
• Klipper additions, to paste them into the “printer.cfg” file.
Disclaimer: Use the configuration files entirely at your own risk.
Happy fast printing!