Not a complete novice here. I’ve a MK3 that has been upgraded over the years to finally a 3.5S. I built a Voron 2.4 R2 and I’ve been using it for several years.
I need the build volume of the SV08 so I ordered one. Most relaxing stress free build imaginable. However, setting the Z-Offset was a disaster. I let it run the automatic but it was too close, had furrows in the discs. so I cranked it back a bit and that that was too much, so i cranked it the other way and it dug into the bed and it seems to auto save the settings after every iteration.
How can I just blow away what it has set and start from scratch with this process. Is it as easy as just setting Z-Offset to zero?
AFAIK it just gets you close. I use probe_calibrate and dial it in. I use these steps:
After leveling you set your z offset using the paper method. I usually bring the tip up a little after it grabs the paper to avoid dragging on the bed.
I downloaded a z disc print. It’s a single layer circle that helps dial it in.
Then I start the disc print and I nudge it in place. The z disc has a great picture of what you are looking for.
Remember a print layer is .2mm thick so think .01 or .25 until you get the feel
1 trick during the print is to pause the printer and feel the print. It should be smooth if it’s smooth but has waves then you are over extruding but you can tackle that after you set the z.
If it’s rough and has waves they could be the nozzle bunching up the filament because it’s too low.
Handy cheat sheet:
Strings of filament that don’t hold shape: too high
Filament flattened but gaps between the lines: too high
No gaps and smooth but waves: over extruding. Z is probably good here
No gaps and smooth with no waves: this is a good z
No gaps but ridges: too low
Print is paper thin and just looks like shading on the bed. Way too low.
Don’t forget to save and restart after setting your z
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While this isn’t the quick fix you hoped to hear, I believe the fundamental SV08 first layer issues start with a bad bed mesh from the inaccurate proximity sensor. It’s not just too low or too high. That could be compensated. It’s too low some places and too high other places, and it changes over time. The Z offset adjustment process could be better implemented but for those with a warped bed and inaccurate bed meshes, the SV08 first layer issues will be time consuming and frustrating, with manual adjustments needed for each print and still no assurance that the part won’t detach from the bed the moment you stop watching it.
The SV08 is a great printer but these first layer issues are its Achilles’ heel.
There is some hope. You can add an Eddy sensor which will require switching to mainline Klipper. If you can wait, you can install Sovol’s Eddy tool head upgrade which has been “very very close” for over a month. It’s apparently shipped to regional warehouses and is waiting on the firmware update to support the Eddy probe.
An accurate bed mesh should fix the first layer adhesion issues. Hopefully, with a good bed mesh, the Z offset process can finally be automated by Sovol so it works as well as it does on my Sovol Zero.
The complete fix to the SV08 would also require a flatter bed, such as Sovol implemented for the Zero and SV08 Max. Some people do well enough shimming the SV08 bed, which will be much easier once there is an a accurate bed mesh to guide the shimming process. Others have abandoned the thin taco bed of the SV08 in favor of an expensive aftermarket bed such as the R3men graphite bed to eliminate parts that are warped on the bottom and Klipper running the tool head up and down while printing to compensate for a warped bed.
Thanks, this seems to be a good method. I’ll give it a shot.
I do plan to upgrade to BTT Eddy with NG if I can figure it out.
Thanks!
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