Buckle up folks, this is gonna be a long one.
First the software. No monitoring on CPU temperature of either STM32F103XE on main board (middle of bottom left of printer base where the big cables enter) or the MksPi Makerbase MKS Klipad50 (you might get a V1.1 or a V1.2) inside touch screen running Klipper is unforgivable when both present that information to be read, especially when the latter is known to overheat and cause shutdowns. I’d get it onto your network ASAP and from Fluidd add the following line to the start of your printer.cfg and like magic these values will show up in your graph next to heated bed, in the logfile ect.
[temperature_sensor mkspi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor stm32f103xe]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 10
Next up fix the cables rubbing on things, its a good easy first print using the included filament in the box and will work fine with Sovols own Orca profiles… but you have to fix those to, the “Gcode flavor” of printer should be changed to “Klipper” and it’ll stop throwing “set fan” errors, and turn off the TimeLapse. I also recommend disabling the skirt layers (it already does lines on front of the bed to clear nozzle). You will get away with a LOT more speed than the profile, but do that gradually AFTER you’ve fixed the issues and gotten a good print. I’d recommend adding a couple of percent scale to the extrude side bracket (Bracket Large) as it wraps around the metal, the Z axis cable tray is a lot more tolerant, and both mount with the included Sovol zipties.. they gave you plenty of spares and even a decent cutter. Note the sticker was left on as a final layer extra padding against zip ties. There are full cable chains or spines, but these add a lot more weight to moving parts, take a lot longer to print ect.
Bracket-Large-22.5.stl (117.2 KB)
SV07 Z-axis CableTray.stl (87.4 KB)
Next up to fix the overheating… yep since its logged you’ll notice the MksPi just keeps going up over time and system load, especially if you use the Fluidd interface or attach a webcam. There is basically no airflow as all the holes are covered by the screen mount bracket, and while the lower power/wattage mainboard in the printer gets its own fan, the Klipper screen’s own 24v header remains unpopulated, so the box slowly heats over time till your printer shuts down, will fail to reboot if restarted before its properly cooled off, and won’t resume the print it crashed during. There are many complex solutions to completely replace the case, but they are completely unnecessary, and we don’t really even need speed control from the internal header, just cutting the end off any little wall wart 9v supply (often found with barrel jack plugs for alarm clocks, old phones, radios and a dozen other things in the trash) and attaching to a 12v fan is fantastic for our needs. The print just slides into the gap (deliberately covering the middle holes so it draws air over complete board from bottom holes and gaps around I/O), and sucks the hot air out the the case…. idling at 60-65’c (up to 150’f) when not printing before, and crashing at 80’c (~176’f) during prints is now floating in the mid 40’s and its not nearly as loud as the other printer fans, even on sensible speed ranges.
Sovol Klipper Cooler 40mm mk2.stl (78.4 KB)
Speaking of loud printer fans? Mine didn’t work!
I spent ages assuming I didn’t have the right command, or didn’t know the right pin, since earlier printers shipped to still used the whole “SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=config_name SPEED=<speed>". Nope, thats fixed and the [multi_pin fan_pins] command shipped with mine and works great, however the PE13 header doesn’t fit well on my board and required to be jammed to one side of its socket to make electrical contact, and the Sovol applied hot glue prevented it ever reaching that position. I apologize for the blurry photo, both I took where as the bottom plate has short wires to a fan attached to it, thats own connector is also glued. If you have to do this, note you only need to take machine screws around the 3 edges out, you can leave the 4 in the middle, they only hold a raised surface the tool tray slides on. The big fan on the black bracket is a 7025 24v if you have to replace it, but assume you don’t, if it randomly stops one day its likely simlar issues to mine.
I found these things slowly over a few days, but if you apply my hindsight and use the fruits of my bad modeling skills you can likely do them in one afternoon, the 3 prints are all less than an hour each and attach without tools. That feels a reasonable amount of effort for the amazing price point of $99usd I paid, vs $239 for SV06ACE or roughly simlar build area/speed or $379 for a zero to go much faster (but a little smaller).
I grabbed the $9 pack of nozzles from Sovol with mine, and a <$3 pack of 10 ali-express Vwheels that others have used/recommend (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005810590286.html), so hopefully that will cover normal wear and tear for a long while.