I’ve been thinking of cutting my Glacier plate down to fit the Zero.
Don’t you think the surface will peel off when you cut the plate?
What print bed temperature and what material?
I left the bed at 60*, printed PLA with the door shut.
I’ll try ASA over the weekend.
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What tool do you use to make such a cut?
I started with a Drermal & a Diamond Wheel…
but ended up using & big pair of Tin Snips my neighbor had. This worked out great.
I used the Drermal & a few sanding disks to smooth it out & round the corners.
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I don’t have the patience to do something this clean.
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Just trace it out with a sharpie and use a Dremel with cutoff wheel to get it close then file for fit. It also doesn’t have to be perfect and only takes 15 minutes once you get cutting.
35C is all that’s needed for PLA and prints can be removed immediately when done.
I couldn’t find a smooth PEI spring steel sheet when I looked so I ordered a textured gold PEI 150x150 mm build plate in late March and the 165x165 mm version in late May. The latter works well enough, hanging a few mm off the front and right side.
There now seems to be a smooth 150x150 mm build plate. Unfortunately, it’s only sold with the adhesive backed magnetic sheet and it has an ugly manufacturer’s logo, hopefully on one side.
Hopefully, we’ll get a properly sized Biqu Glacier plate for the Zero soon, and other build plate options.
Hopefully the magnetism is right…
When I replaced my E3P flex plate, it only stuck on sideways…I was forced to replace the magnetic bed sticker in order to have it facing the front.
What about this..??
EDIT: Not smooth
Hello,
It’s not that easy to cut a Glacier Biqu plate with a Dremel.
The backside is almost clean.
But the frontside, where the cutout is, is in very poor condition.
Use a sanding drum to clean up the edges & print with the bad side down.
That’s exactly what I did.
The cut line was really bad and wide in places, so I couldn’t remove all the marks.
I did my best.
The far edges look a little rough, but I’d say you’ll rarely use that area and it will be after you’ve already worn out the other side. My 1st looked kind of like this but the 2nd I kept cooler so it didn’t melt off as much of the coating. I also have the Dremel flex attachment which probably makes it a little easier. You did it though!!
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I’m not worried about the print quality on the outer edges; I know it will be good enough. And indeed, it is.
It’s just a matter of aesthetics.
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I can confirm for the SV06 ACE the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Frostbite intended for the Bambu Lab printers mostly fits in the ACE. It has to be centered perfectly, however, or the edges will hit the gantry. If it is centered, then it works fine. Trimming it down like @Boydscustomfab did is definitely the safer option. I’m just lazy.
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