Are there any cool plate options for the SV06 ACE?
I print almost exclusively in PLA and want to reduce the heat from multiple machines as much as possible.
I was pointed to the 235mm Glacier plate from BQ but it is square and doesn’t have the same cutouts that the ACE plates has.
Any suggestions or other ways to print PLA at 40C or less on the SV06 ACE?
Nice, I use the cryogrip on my 4 A1’s and they are amazing! Prints PLA at 35C and 0 adhesion failures, even when printing a fast first layer. And no need to clean them really.
It also makes a noticeable difference in room temp and power consumption, which is my main motivator.
I was hoping there was maybe an option to add a stick on surface to a PEI sheet to give it the same effect but so far I haven’t found anything.
Cool, good luck! That looks like a glacier plate which I think is more universal filament wise but may need a slightly higher temp for PLA (45C iirc). I got a glacier included in a multi pack but haven’t tried it.
Mine are the cryogrip meant for PLA and PETG only and look like this.
You have the Frostbite Plate. I was going to buy that one, but they were out of stock…but,
I got the Glacier on sale for $13…so I can’t really complain.
I do however, wish that they thought about the purge line a little more.
Ah yes, Frostbite is my style of Cryogrip plate. What have your first impressions been so far with the Glacier?
Those cutouts look pretty annoying but hopefully doesn’t affect things. I like those nozzle size extruder covers too!
I have been wanting an SV06 ACE for a while so got one on order that will arrive this week. If I keep going with it, I’ve thought about cutting down a larger cool plate to fit. How hard could it be??
So far it’s been good, I’ve done maybe 5 prints on it so far.
The only think I have noticed is it is a little hard to flex the plate to remove a print, but if I wait for it to cool, it will release 100% without any flexing.
Yep, purge line looks much better now. It is a little different to remove the print from the Frostbite vs regular PEI but I can always do it the second the print finishes and don’t have to wait. I normally flex & spin the plate all the way around then can grab and remove the print.
Maybe since Glacier requires a little higher temps it needs to cool a little like PEI but at least it’s running at 45C vs 65C.
For as rough as the Glacier feels, I’m shocked how smooth the print bottom is.
I have no issues with the plate at all. I don’t print that much TPU on the Mini, so I might use the Frostbite more…I’ll have to test it out & see.
Yeah the Frostbite has a pretty glossy texture with some small roughness but overall I don’t mind the appearance.
The first print I did popped off mid-way through. I started another and noticed that even though I set the bed temp to 35C, the bed was heating up during the pre-print routine then cooling after starting.
I found that within the Start_Print → Clean_Nozzle Macro there was a M140 & M190 call to heat the bed up to 60C before cleaning the nozzle. I commented that out and things have been great since!
I’m pleased with how easy it was to cut the plate down and I would recommend it to anyone who’s comfortable using a dremel.
It’s not an issue with a normal hot plate, but this code caused the bed to still be hot when the print started (near 60C) then cooled down to 35C as the print continued.
I think the temperature difference + needing to move down the Z offset a bit is what caused the issue.
At least 5 successful prints in a row now though.
Sure! I had a left over 257MM plate from my Bambu A1 which is slightly larger than the ACE plate. I aligned the ACE plate on top and traced with a sharpie.
I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut around the edges then used a flat metal file to clean everything up. Make sure it’s clamped to the table and a scrap piece is underneath when cutting.
Took about 30 minutes overall and it doesn’t have to be 100% perfect but it’s a huge upgrade.
I’ll post some pics after the current print is done.
This is a little better picture of the plate. The top and right edges are what I cut down. You can see a little bit of the blue coating melted off the edge but it’s fine within 1/4".