Hi “Korbin”,
it would be nice if you remember what was your last change.
That would maybe help others to fix their problem quickly 
Thank you, I’ll give these a try
My last change was changing the filament…
same manufacturer as always only this time PetG in black.
I noticed with the Heattower that I have a lot more stringing with the black than with the transparent one.
Otherwise the print looks identical at the same temperatures.
Next week i get two new PetG roles.
I will then print different things and report again.
Thank you all for your ideas and advice 
Petg by it nature is stringly. As long as their no blobs the stringing can be managed by a hairdryer or heat gun.
So, after I have invested way too much time into finding out what the problem is, I was close to just develop and build my own hotend… There are many small design flaws that would have made the extruder better and more reliable. But I think that would be going too far off topic here, and I also don’t feel like developing the devices for Sovol.
Problem:
Printing is not finished because the extruder is grinding into the filament.
Symptom:
The filament is melted too early, compressed and pushed harder against the walls. With frequent retractions, the drive gear is now grinding into the filament and spinning out of control.
Cause:
Heatcreep, the heatbrake is not efficient enough and conducts too much heat. And/or it releases heat too slowly to the heatblock, which cools too slowly itself.
Errors found:
The outer diameter of the copper cylinder on the heatbrake is 6.98 mm and the bore in the cooling block is 7.08 mm. This means a gap of 0.05 mm. If we calculate very roughly, we get h1 = 34,687 if we assume air with 0.0232 W/mK or h1 = 15,886,966 if we assume good thermal paste with 12 W/mK.
If we assume a gap of 0.01 mm (which is absolutely no problem to manufacture and probably only technically designed with a large tolerance), we get h1 = 175,737 (air) or 80,490,441. This represents a significant difference. (The values were only roughly calculated to show the effect and impact)
The negative effect of the gap is reduced in other heat breaks by the type of attachment. If a screw is used to clamp the copper cylinder to the mantle surface, a line-shaped contact surface is created, which results in a significant increase in heat transfer due to the high heat conductivity of copper.
Why is this a problem with the Sovol SV06 now? Due to the off-center arrangement of the fixing screws towards the nozzle, a lateral pressure is exerted on the heatbrake. Due to the gap between the copper cylinder and the cooling block, there is a canting and a point contact. ||
This canting is very very small, but if we now recall the values mentioned above, it becomes clear why this is very bad.
But it goes even further, the problem is determined by many individual factors.
Another error (which is why the above-mentioned error only becomes relevant) is the poor application of thermal paste. On all 6 Sovol SV06 that I currently have here, I found a clearly inadequate and non-uniform application of thermal paste on the copper body. Let’s recall → Thermal paste approx. 12 W/mK; air 0.0262 W/mk
Next error, the fan. Unfortunately, I lack appropriate measurement devices to compare the fans with qualitative values. I simplified it and blew a piece of paper with the fan and observed the distance at which the paper reacts. I also have a identically built fan from another manufacturer that I removed from an Anycubic Kobra (so nothing high-end). With the fan from the Kobra, the paper reacted at twice the length. If we now compare these two fans with this “test”, we conclude that the installed fan is 50% worse than another Noname fan. This is extremely bad.
Combining all the errors, we have the cause of the heatcreep. To make this cause visible as a measurement value, I measured the temperature in the copper cylinder of the Heatrbrake with a PT100 sensor, which I of course calibrated beforehand. Room temperature 24°C. On 1/2 of the cylinder, the PT100 measured a value of 78°C. It can be assumed that the temperature in the threaded part of the Heatbrake, where the blockage occurred, was higher. PLA starts to deform at 50°C.
Solution (just get it working):
Since I have 6 of the SV06 here, I wanted a quick, simple, and reliable solution. Therefore, I first replaced the 4010 fan with a 5015. Additionally, I applied thermal paste evenly to the copper cylinder and the threaded part of the copper cylinder.
It would probably have been possible to replace the 4010 with a high-quality 4010. I wanted process security.
Result:
With these two measures, I was able to measure 47°C instead of 78°C. Still not a good value, but a clear difference without changing much.
The SovolSV06 is now printing as it should. Without interruption. Not only that, the surface quality has also significantly improved. Which is understandable if the filament in the heatbrake runs stiffly, the material feed cannot take place evenly.
I’ll see if I can send the 3D file for the 5015 mount here tomorrow or the day after, I just need to change a little something.
Oh for fuck sake and I thought with the SV06 there is finaly a cheap und good printer without any necessary modifications.
I am out and need a drink. bye
6 Likes
Thank you @Pilou for your detailed analysis. All your thoughts and concerns would be synced with the engineer for further lookup and investigation. Each new-coming Sovol 3d printing machine is created out of the experience and knowledge we have in the 3d printing industry, and feedback from customers 
I have to say I am not a big fan of all metal hotends … many problems with heat creep … I tried one on my crealit CR6 and had the same problems … clogging after about half hour … iI have now go rid of the all metal hot end and gone back original and no more problems … I don’t believe an all metal hot end is an advantage if you are just printint pla and petg …
Scratches neck a-la Dave Chappell. “Yall got any more of them cold end fan shroud and fan mount design files?” 
1 Like
Hmmm. That’s interesting. I bought a MicroSwiss all metal hot end for my CR-6 over a year ago and never looked back. But, we all have different experiences with 3D printers. As the technology continues to improve, hopefully so will the reliability and consistency of results.
fanmount file
https://www.printables.com/de/model/396908-fanmount-heatsink-5015-sovolsv06-heatcreep-fix
3 Likes
did you get a reply yet or solution?
I can confirm what Pilou wrote…
I think we may have gotten a bad batch with a poor fit in manufacturing.
replacing the thermal paste and printing without an enclosure now works for me.
I’m still waiting for a reaction from support via email and there will probably be nothing more…
what should they do? new complete extruder unit or fan?
does that make it better?
nobody really knows!
help is only available in the forum or you have to help yourself.
it’s too bad they didn’t clone the extruder more like the mk3s with the quick change heater that could use the revo micro hotends they look like a better thermal break and a more compact heater design makes lighter and can get the air flow a bit closer to the tip i think. I have an idea for a machined part that can mount like the normal heater block but have a threaded portion in the existing extruder heatsink it’s not designed yet but along those lines.
If you’re having heat creep, lower the temperature or use filament that have a higher glass temperature (petg, abs, etc) or print faster to solve the problem.
Enclosure can cause heat creep when using pla filament.
1 Like
I also had the problem that no print finished cleanly. The solution was as unbelievable as it was simple: The fan that is used to cool the heatbreak was mounted rotated by 90 degrees. The arrow that indicates the direction of the air flow must point backwards on the printer! In my case, it had pointed downwards in the direction of the heatbed. After I mounted the fan correctly, everything works perfectly.
Surely you meant 180°?