Received my SV07 Plus - Which Bed Support is best?

I’ve excitedly received my SV07 Plus and it steps out of the solid mounts for the print bed like with my SV06/SV06 Plus by having springs and adjuster wheels installed (well, supposed to be installed). The installation kit comes with a set of hard spacers like on the prior models.

I’m curious about which I should use. My SV06 and SV06 Plus have been very stable with the fixed, hard spacers, but there is continual discussion in the 3D sphere about how much better tolerances are provided by the adjustment wheels and springs.

I’m willing to experiment if others have no input, but I thought that I would start here. How are prints on the SV07 using the Wheels/springs?

@sovol3d - something should be done about the shipping setup. All four of my wheels and springs were floating loose in the box with the screws just floating in the holes.


i did a bit of testing and swapping back and forth when i first got my SV07 and i settled on the solid mounts but im not really sure i know why. they just seemed to work better. also i had some other issues around the same time so my results might just be way off because of that

I am fairly happy with the bed on my 6’s, so I set the 7 up the same way.

5 contact points, compressing silicone biscuits.
Tramming the magnetic surface cold, adjusting the screws til its as good as it can get.
The abl can handle the 3 or 4 thou left over

When taking the sled off, and attempting to invert the fasteners so they can be tightened in place…
I noted the eccentric spacers were machined badly, and had a 0.3 burr to be removed. this is on the surface the 0.98mm washer/spacer fits. it is there so the sled is level to the Vslot frame. one may wonder why the fixed spacers were not ordered a mm shorter, but see my other post for that topic.

Hail praetor :wink:

I have found more loose/ misinstalled fasteners on this Item than all 3 prior sovol printers combined, I truly doubt they were assembled in the same province. For example, look at your gantry,
the vroller tension wheels.
on my unit, the position of the fixed, and eccentric spacers is reversed, side to side.
it matters a tiny bit, but requires full disassy to correct.

anyway, my buried point is to presume it went into the box, the way you took it out.

not, to imagine that the “shipping” caused these three magic screws to fall out completely while all the others survived the vibrations just fine

This is my first time assembling a Sovol printer - we have an SV06 and SV06 Plus at work that someone else assembled with no issues. With mine, the two bed leveling wheels on the left hand side were loose in the packaging, and one of the screws was loose so the wheel would not tighten; I tool the magnetic sheet off so could tighten it then added a drop of super glue so I don’t have to take the print surface off every time.

Do you have a picture of those gantry wheels? Because mine are not symmetric left to right, and I’d like to see how they should look. Thanks.

Also, the assembly instructions are horrible - they restart every step with “1”, but the bags are labeled 1-10, and there aren’t any M5x20 button head screws.

I’ve got a bad feeling about this…

This should be explained in the manual, but unlike teh SV-06 units, the steps are numbered according to the step in that sequence and have no relationship to the bag numbers.

Use the images on top of Page 4 to identify the screws. Double check the M5x20 bag(s) since my unit had both the button head and the knurled head screws in the same bag.

You don’t need CA to hold the screws in the bed as the tension applied by the springs are enough and once you have your initial setting you should not need to move the leveling wheels. You mention removing the print sheet as if it were an oddity - it’s not as it is designed to be lifted off and flexed to make printed part removal easier. And, the leveling wheels are symmetric, can you share a photo of why you think they are not?

Here’s how I returned my leveling wheels, springs and bed screws to normal (3 of my wheels were off, and 2 of the screws were loose in the box):

  1. Remove the four center screws from the bed and lift the bed from the Y axis plate
  2. Turn the bed over, paying attention to the bed heater cable
  3. Run each leveling screw up from the top (now the bottom) in each of the four corners in turn
  4. Hold the Screw in place with your hand and slide the spring over it
  5. Thread on the tightening wheel - flat side toward the bed until you have a good bite
  6. Once all four are installed/reinstalled, tighten them all the way to the max compression that the springs allow
  7. Now back each wheel off 2 full turns
  8. Turn the bed back over to its normal orientation - again paying attention to the bed heater cable
  9. Replace the bed on the Y axis plate and reinstall the four screws (I tightened to around 5 lb/in)

Now, pick up with the hotbed check on page 15.


Thanks for responding.

I just thought it was confusing to number the bags and then not have those numbers correspond to anything in the manual - most flat pack type furniture usually has hardware grouped by step so you can grab it when you need it. As it so happens the 4x M5x20 SHCS were in their own bag, and the 4x M5x30 SBHS (labeled as such) were in two separate bags.

And I am also admittedly impatient and tend to make a lot of assumptions about things.

In regards to what was symmetric or not, I was referring to your observation that the fixed and eccentric spacers for the gantry roller tension wheels were reversed, and I wanted to see if mine were, too.

I know removing the print sheet is a feature, but if I’m actively leveling the bed, which requires the print sheet to be in place, and I have to remove it to hold the screw still while I turn the wheel, that would be a pain in the arse. (For whatever reason that screw wouldn’t stay still with tension alone).

Regardless, machine is assembled, leveled, and running just fine.

Thanks again for replying.

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I tried the solid mounts on my bed and found that they were a bit off (on by almost a millimeter) it was causing bed tilt calibration issues. I switched back to the springs. I am lucky to work in a machine shop and plan on making a set soon.

feel i should add this here. i recently did some printing in ASA and turned the bed heat up to 110°C (the config mine came with had the max set to 130°C) and it started melting the solid standoffs. so i recommend if you want to go hot either stick below the max they have in their current config (i think its 103°C) or do what i did and make some new standoffs out of a more heat resistant material (i used aluminium)

I had the opposite problem, all mine were over tightened! I suppose it depends on how or whom is assembling it and if they work out or not. Or could they be assembled by AI’s??? On second thought; I don’t think Sovol would be a big enough company to afford robots to work in their assembly plant.

I tried the solid mounts? Wasn’t impressed with the material or the variance of sizes between them. I stayed with the springs as you are hoping the new variety is perfectly flat, and the stand offs are the same. If you try the solid mounts and your bed tilt fails it’s the spacers. Found this out first hand