I bought a used SV08 a couple days ago and it’s been a trial. It was used and a preorder model. The HeightMap looked like a ski slope and had a range over 3mm. It was high in the back and low in the front with extreme peaks in the back left corner and extreme lows in the front corners. I pulled the bed and made sure there wasn’t any crap under it or the build plate. I printed some shims for under the bed plate and got to a 2mm range.
I just want to get some prints off of it while I debate whether to buy a new bed or not.
So I set the bed size to 300x300. I cut 25mm off each side in printer.cfg and made sure to include the bed mesh, gantry leveling and zoffset in that range. Reran those and got a heightmap with a range of .279 with a decent center section.
I don’t advise anyone else to do this but if you’re getting frustrated you can take the pain out of it for a little while be sacrificing some build size. I’ll come back to it when I’m not so aggravated and get it fixed for good.
My SV08 had a bit over 1 mm of taco bed warping and I thought that was bad, but 3 mm is crazy.
I did something similar to what you’re doing. I still did the full size bed mesh but only printed on the less warped middle portion. I’ve since bought a R3men graphite bed. It significantly increased the cost of the printer but I was not in the mood to mess with half measures at that point. I justified it by telling myself that it’s still less expensive and easier than building a Voron 2.4.
My other problem was inaccuracies in the bed mesh resulting from the 8 mm prox sensor. I’m still working on that problem. I’m waiting for the Sovol upgraded Eddy tool head, but if they keep delaying that, I may just wait for the INDX system from Bondtech in November and fix the bed mesh problem with a multi-filament upgrade. 
I have also ordered the r3men bed but I haven’t installed it yet. My sv08 came with the th3d sensor in it. It looks like a drop-in replacement and I’ve had pretty good success with it. If you’d like some info on it, I could document how it was installed
Hi,
If you can share your experience, it would be kind of you.
the Th3d sensor or the bed?
All experiences are worth having.
Looks like it will happen sooner rather than later. I got an error 26 this morning on startup. Wiring looks good, bed temp reported as 24c at startup before the shutdown and -56 when disconnected. The wiki says “If the readings are below 0°C: Replace the heated bed assembly with wiring.“
Hello,
Send an email to info@sovol3d.com with your order number, an explanation, and photos.
They will respond within a week.
it’s used and out of warranty
You can still request information.
After trying to move the thermistor to the klipper extender and putting in the R3men ben I was able to find an error in the klipper.log. I have a macro that loads the default bed mesh and it appears to be trying to load the bed mesh prior it being available and this causes this error. I’ll play around with the delay time and see if I can get it to work
UPDATE: R3men installed and already showing results. My mesh range is .212. I’ll work up a post on my install
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3 days ago my sv08 arrived. I am more than satisfied, today is the first print. I can’t say it is the best I have seen but it will be better. yesterday I dealt with my taco bed. The mesh was bad 0.93. just like yours the back side is terribly high. the springs with screws didn’t help much. after a few hours without disassembling the bed and padding I got this:
I installed a R3man also on my SV08 with about the same results, I don’t find too bad considering what the stock bed can be.
R3man says you can flat sand the magnetic surface to get a better mesh I don’t find .21mm over the 350mm x 350mm surface too far out of the realm I know it sounds like a lot but that is only 2 hairs. I do wonder how much the magnetic material will move when heated to 100°
