SV08 bed is warped like a taco! The left and right side are either higher or the middle of the bed is lower. WTH Sovol has a non responsive support team in my experience as well. I hope someone makes an aftermarket bed for this thing soon in the likes of a thick build plate like the Voron.
If anyone has any suggestions or fixes please post. Thank you much! Frustrating…
FML - you can only post one picture per post!!!
Have you tried this printable tool? It helped me find and adjust the hidden bolts.
It is still a tedious process:
Tighten/loosen bolts half a turn tops. Heat soak, do a bed calibration. Adjust some bolts and repeat.
It didn’t help much having tightened all bolts since then the bed has no room to adjust.
Finally got it down to .35 mm with no taco bends.
Edit: Here is another example:
@m.olsson - I have not, I will give it a shot. Thank you for your response.
Hello,
Have you write directly to Sovol to get support ?
info@sovol3d.com
Sovol SVO8 say the bed distorts and say use a Heat soak for 30 minutes before printing large items
I don’t believe the heat soak is the right way. When z-offset is right with heated bed and the adaptive bed mesh is done without filament blob on the nozzle (=heat primed nozzle!) then it should do right even with taco style beds (without local squishing).
Optional:
In printer.cfg change this line:
variable_bed_mesh_calibrate_target_temp: 80 #65 MOD Higher bed mesh temp for heat soak and worse case tacoing
This will level at 80°C to warp worst case, not only 65°C. When printing PETG i set this to 85°C as leveling temp.
-Preheat PLA to melt away any filament blobs on the nozzle, maybe raise bed temp of your print bed additional +5°C
-Calibrate Z-Offset in Display
-Preheat PLA to melt away any filament blobs on the nozzle, maybe raise bed temp of your print bed additional +5°C
-Bed Mesh in Display
-Preheat PLA to melt away any filament blobs on the nozzle, maybe raise bed temp of your print bed additional +5°C
-Auto-Calibrate (=Input Shaping) in Display
This should be fine for making first layer tacoing like the bed and without squishing. But there is another Adaptive Bed Leveling when starting the print, this can ruin it again!
Try this Start G-CODE in Orca-Slicer under printer settings (edit nozzle config) and try again.
The original is shit imho (but make a backup of the old g-code as text file in case something goes wrong!).
M104 S150 ;set nozzle priming temp for auto home
M109 S150 ;wait for nozzle priming temp for auto home
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set slicer bed temp
G28
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set slicer extruder temp
START_PRINT
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
M400
G91
M83
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer];wait for slicer extruder temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for slicer bed temp
G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
G1 E-0.200 Z5 F600
G1 X88.000 F9000
G1 Z-5.000 F600
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.16 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.24 F1800
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 E-0.200 Z1 F600
M400
Or Sovol supply a replacement print bed for free that doesn’t distort
Here is a real and relative easy fix:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Sovol/comments/1gisxjq/sovol_sv08_taco_bed_mesh_root_cause_fix/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Sovol/comments/1gkr22r/how_i_fixed_my_sv08_taco_bed/
A new bed will change nothing.
Yup, a new bed won’t change anything. This is my bed right after a quad level and then again with about a 15 minute heat soak.
This illustrates a fundamental lack of understanding about how structures react under varying thermal conditions by the ‘designers’ of this unit. If I hadn’t bought this as a source of cheap parts I’d be VERY upset with the overall quality and performance of the SV08. We all got conned by the YouTube, and other market, shills.
There is a fix, not a patch, for this kind of problem and has been known for many years. It is not going to be an easy or simple modification.
There is a lot of potential in this unit, but until someone spends the time to properly fix the basic bed so it doesn’t warp and one can reliably set the Z axis offset it is just going to be a source of frustration for the owners that don’t have the experience and knowledge to fix it.
In hind sight I think I should have just spent the extra money and bought the parts to build a Voron from scratch.
No warranty for me! Took the bed out this morning to start on my modifications. Looks like the mods won’t be as hard as I had imagined - but they are still way beyond what the average user will be able to do without a shop full of tools. Next step is to get the bed apart to drill some holes in the plastic.
Found the file from post #3. Should help. If someone else wants to find the bolts under the magnet without printing the template here are the rough dimensions, reverse engineered from the STL.
Sovol have a video how to remove the magnetic sheet, ( will damage it so a new one is needed ). Basically heat to 80 C for a while and peel off.
Try my slicer Gcode. I haven’t really had any severe taco bed.
type or paM140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp
M104 S130 ;prime extruder temp
M220 S100
G28
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
START_PRINT
G90
G1 X0 F9000
G1 Y20
G1 Z0.600 F600
G1 Y0 F9000
M400
G91
M83
;M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;set bed temp
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;set extruder temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;wait for bed temp
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ;wait for extruder temp
G1 E25 F300
G4 P1000
G1 E-0.200 Z5 F600
G1 X88.000 F9000
G1 Z-5.000 F600
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.16 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 X-87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 Y1 E0.24 F1800
G1 X87.000 E20.88 F1800
G1 X87.000 E13.92 F1800
G1 E-0.200 Z1 F600
M400
ste code here
Do this fix and all is fine: