Looking for some help. I have the Sovol SV01 Pro printer which still has the stock Marlin 2.0.9.2 on it and it has been great for years. Recently it got a big clog in the extruder and while cleaning it I broke one of the leads to the thermistor and got the error message about temps not getting right so I replaced the thermister.
The problem now is that as soon as I turn on the printer, I get the Sovol splash screen for a second and it goes straight to this error message about the target temperature not being met and it is stuck on this error screen. It goes to this error screen really fast.
The thermistor is generic but threading the wires all the way to the mainboard is a royal PITA.
I upgraded my SV01Pro to a circular ceramic hotend. I didn’t notice a huge performance difference but I do enjoy the improved nozzle visibility and LOVE the plugs at the extruder end of the umbilical.
Note: Most generic thermistors have a 1 m wire which is about 20 cm too short for the original wire routing.
I think these 1.5 m units are suitable. Mount the thermistor to the heat block and plug it in for a test BEFORE you route the wire into the umbilical. They are EASY to ruin when tightening the screw.
If you don’t mind splicing wires these will work. Polarity doesn’t matter.
The circle heater has thermistor built in. You’ll need to splice wires. I found a kit on AliExpress with longer wires. The circle heaters use V6 nozzles NOT the MK8 used by the square heatblock. The V6 has longer threads and a shorter point.
Be careful with the heatbreak. They are Sovol specific and the original style for PTFE tube are no longer available. I run the all metal ones for everything EXCEPT TPU.
Thank you, so much for your guidance. I got the 6 pack that you recommended and finally got some free time to try them out. I just spliced the wires temporarily to see if that fixed the problem before threading the wires to the mainboard but no joy. The screen goes straight to the same error message within 2 seconds. I guess it’s possible that there is a broke wire within the harness itself which I will check with a multi meter and make sure there is continuity.
When you say " Plug a new thermistor into the mainboard" do you mean to the actual motherboard itself by taking the cover off and plugging the thermistor where the leads from the harness are already connected? No usb cable or anything plugged into usb ports. I had my Raspberry Pie plugged in but disconnected it thinking it was keeping it from booting.
Yes. The goal is to determine if the board has lost the ability to “read” the thermistor.
My SV01Pro lost the hot end thermocouple circuit at 3 months. Sovol sent me a replacement under warranty. 6 months later that one shorted the extruder heater and went 100% on till the fuse blew. At that point I upgraded to a newer board rather than screw around with the warranty process. Had to compile my own firmware though… I’ve since upgraded to Klipper and would never go back to Marlin.
Good idea, I will make it a project for this weekend and connect straight to the motherboard with the thermistor to test that theory.
It is just not my month with printers. I’m not new to 3d printers by no means and I have 2 of the Sovol sv01 pro’s and I have a creality ender. I got so frustrated in not making any progress with the sv01 pro (which is out of warranty) that I just went ahead and bought a new sv06 Ace mainly for the Klipper and this thing is DOA on arrival with thermal issues (see attached) and it makes a loud clunk when first starting to print. Both fans are spinning and I did the calibration checks several times but no luck.
Getting ready to contact customer support since this printer is just days old.
Check to see if the extruder thermistor is properly seated in the plug on the toolhead board (under magnetic cover). If that’s not it start a new thread in the SV06Ace category.
Thanks for all of your advice cardoc, I put the thermistor straight to the motherboard as you suggested and that fixed that problem right up. There was a broken wire right in the harness itself that all the splicing in the world wasn’t going to fix.
Sigh, but I caused a new problem while putting it all back together. I knocked the belt controlling the bed moving off it’s track and when I got it back on I must have put it back in the wrong way because when I started it up to level it everything looked fine but as the head was going to home position it started making all kinds of racket where the belt had pushed the bed as far as it would go but the belt kept turning and grinding. I tried adjusting it by holding the belt and moving the bed manually to move it a few teeth back on the belt but made it worse. It now thinks the bed is a couple of inches to the left and bottom (see pic) On the Aux Level menu it breaks the bed up into 4 squares so as to level with the A4 paper. Where the red cross lines are is where it is hitting now. Is this something that can be fixed in Gcode?
The SV01Pro uses micro switches to establish the zero point for X and Y. On power up the printer has no reference point as the motors don’t have any position sensors. There is no “wrong” way to put on the belt.
My guess is the Y axis switch is unplugged or something is blocking the bed from traveling far enough to trigger the switch.
With the power off push the bed all the way to the rear. You should hear an click when the switch is triggered. If it clicks go back to the mainboard and make sure it is plugged in.
That was exactly the problem!
That limit switch is in a hard to get to spot and difficult to confirm visually that it is seated right, once I got it plugged in right everything was smooth sailing.
You sir, are a Scholar and a Gentleman of the highest order. Thank you so much for all of your help.
