SV01 PRO...... BROKEN hot end , replacemt?

Trying to clean up a clog in my hotend i managed to break the one wire that goes into the block .

Does anyon know exactly what i can use for a replacement.

I have been told its 24v 40w heat cartridge. Just want to make sure i get the right one as i know the SV01 pro has some specific parts !

Hi,
You should ask info@sovol3d.com to get a new one.

24v 40w is correct.

40W Hotend Heater Cartridge – 3 Pack

Ok so that is really all i need then?! I’ll have to see if i can get the old one out!

I was wondering if these would fit ? I case i cant get the old one out

No, those are 12v…you need 24v.

You can buy them separately (3) pieces or try to find a replacement hotend.

I can’t find a compatible replacement parts for you to build one.

I did find this, but it’s not cheap.
E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Fully Assembled - 1.75mm Universal (Direct) (24v)

Maybe @sovol3d can fins an answer for you.

Oh darn didnt see the 12v description . But what about just the metal block itself. If i used the correct 24v cartridge like you posted , and used the hotend in the link i posted .

Im going to try tonight to removed the old one , see how its goes !

Alright, I found out that a V6 PT100 heatblock should fit.
You will have to compare yours to the pictures.

V6 Heater Block,PT100 V6 Heating Block

POLISI3D 500℃ High Temperature Plated Copper Heater Block Compatible with PT100

I think i was able to save everything. Thr thermistor wires broke as well when i tried to pull it out. I took a drill and cleanes out the hole.

Do i just solder the new wires into my old ones ? Im.guessing the wires dont matter ( 2 red and the 2 small thermistor wires

It all depends on what you buy. Some will have enough wire to run back to the board, some are too short.
It also depends if you want to take the time to run the wires through the loom or not.
If you do solder, use shrink wrap or use Heat Shrink Solder Seal Wire Connectors.

Post back with your results :slightly_smiling_face:

Ok tried to put the new parts in tonighf. The wires turned outb to be to short so i simply cut back about 5 inches and then connected the new end onto the old wires and plugged everythjng back in.

Now when i turn on the printer the bed read 89 without touching anything . And the nozzle will read 20 but then decided tk read 265 with out doing anything . Tried to heat up the nozzle , and the cartridge heats up REAL fast but does register on the screen …

Not sure what i have done!

Do the wires have to be a certain way? There is np way to tell them apart

Did you buy 24v parts…??
Did you plug the cables back into the right ports in the board…??
Did you get any Error Messages…??

I will double check with that diagram you gave me . That is the first thing i thought i plugged somethjng in wrong , becuase why would the bed thermistor be effected i never touched it .

Screen shot of thr details of the parts i ordered . It mentions something about temp.sensor 11 in marlin but it should be the same that was already there ?

There was an error first time i turned it on i forget exact message now " wanted me.to restart printer , something failing , to try connecting to com port ? Or Test for short ? " sorry i forget the exact message

Did you buy a new thermistor also or just fix the wires…??

Can you take some pictures of the wiring/soldering that you did…??

I replaced the thermistor yes it broke when i tired to remove it as well .

Not to much to show as far wires. They are all heat shrinked. I did not use solder i used an interlocking twisting method ( basically a knot ) and then used he shrink tube. Solder joints can be brittle with the amount of movemt those wires are going to see.

I will double check everythjng when i get home tonight

Post what thermistor you bought.
Hopefully before or after this process no wires touched shorting anything out.

Well just checked out everything again. All is plugged into correct position.

I unscrewed the set screw for the thermistor . It looks like possibly the when tighted down the screw crushed the wire and exposed the inner wire ? This would maybe have shorted things out ?

I spliced in another new one ( had pack of 3) turned on machine… same thing. Also notices the cr touch ia flashing red as well.

Looks like I cooked it some how… or maybe it happened initially when i first broke the wire and it shorted oit then?

From the pic of the board I posted above, it seems it’s just a simple $20 Creality 32bit board.

Should ask @sovol3d to make sure.

Yes ita is a 4.2.2 board.

So if i can find one at decent price ( im in canand.) I would just swap everything over and then i would need to flash the new board with firmware from sovol website. ?