I have had my SV04 for about a year and a half and it has never worked correctly.
I only print using PETG.
The layer do not adhere, spot complete filled in.
I removed the heads to be able to get a good test of the hotend temps.
Using 2 different testers that both got the same readings, both extruders got the same readings of,
50 C = 36C
75 C = 46 C
100 C =62 C
250 C = 145 C
I am guessing I need a mother board
Hi,
With such differences between the two sides, actually you have problems.
It’s not necessary the motherboard, maybe thermistors or others.
A motherboard is not very expensive, about $50, you can try changing it to see if it’s better.
But first, I suggest you put a ticket on Sovol info@sovol3d.com describing your problems with your order number.
Cheers
There might be several reasons if this applies to both print heads:
- wrong thermistor settings in Marlin firmware configuration,
- wrong type of thermistor used in both heat blocks,
- wrong type of heater used in both heat blocks,
- insufficient power supply,
- quite unlikely: both HY1403D heater MOSFET circuits on the motherboard are defective.
Good luck
Björn
I sorry that I was not clear with my chart.
The readings are the same on both heads.
When 50 C is called for on either head I get 36 C.
A 75 C input equals 46 C output.
There is one thing you could check before you grab a multimeter and test voltages & nozzle thermistor resistances:
Have a look at the bottom case at back side of your SV04 & ensure that the power supply voltage is suitable for your local power voltage.
In case the input voltage is OK, here you’ll find a pin layout. It should help to find the correct test pins on the gantry breakout boards.
Turn the printer on and heat-up both nozzles. Check the voltage between the heater wires: it should be 24V.
If the voltage is OK, check the electrical resistance of each nozzle thermistor when your SV04 is powered down and the thermistors are disconnected from the gantry breakout boards: it should be 100K Ohms at 30°C;
If the 24V voltage is not OK, you’ll need direct measurement at the power supply unit. Disconnect the power cord, turn your SV04 sideways carefully in order not to crash both extruders & open the bottom housing screws. Reconnect the power cord & turn on the printer.
Check the voltage at the power supply between V+ and V-: it should be 24V.
Good luck
Björn
Hello,
I tested the voltages and the thermistor (3 of them, I have an extra)and they all test good.
Not sure what to try next.
I have read about Auto PID calibration?
Thanks for your help so far.
Tom
Tom,
you can reinstall the printer firmware to rule out a firmware issue. Before updating the firmware, ensure that you wrote down your current offset data.
In order to ensure that your thermistor types are suitable: Which resistance did the multimeter put out for your thermistors & at what temperatures?
You mentioned an extra thermistor: Is it the hot-bed thermistor? Or is it a separate spare part? In the latter case, it would be interesting to know its type in order to assess wheter a firmware modification could help. If not it would be interesting to know where it is connected to the printer.
/R
Björn
The three hot ends are the ones that came with the machine plus one extra one I bought to do troubleshooting. In your email do you said to test them at 30° C and when I did that the readings were way off. I did some research and it appears that 25° C is the popular number. Testing them at 25c ,77 f ,I got readings of about 113 on all three ,all three were very consistent. I tested all three units as complete hot ends in an oven. I will try reloading the firmware. Can’t believe Sovol expects a beginner to be able to use this equipment.
Tom, welcome to the real world of low-cost 3D-printers…
You are correct, at 25°C it should be 100 kOhm. According to Sovol’s stock firmware settings the thermistor should be an EPCOS type (beta25 = 4092 K, R25 = 100 kOhm, Pull-up = 4.7 kOhm).
I asked for the type of your thermistors for a reason: The underlying Marlin firmware allows to modify the configuration, so it should be possible to build a custom firmware version for your SV04 that can handle your thermistors correctly.
Alternatively, it should be possible to find out the type of your thermistors by measuring resistance at given temperatures & calculate its type.
/R
Björn
The exciting part will be to pick your “glass blub type” out of the choices of thermistor types in the firmware configuration below…
/R
Björn
//===========================================================================
//============================= Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
// @section temperature
/**
* --NORMAL IS 4.7kΩ PULLUP!-- 1kΩ pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
*
* Temperature sensors available:
*
* SPI RTD/Thermocouple Boards - IMPORTANT: Read the NOTE below!
* -------
* -5 : MAX31865 with Pt100/Pt1000, 2, 3, or 4-wire (only for sensors 0-1)
* NOTE: You must uncomment/set the MAX31865_*_OHMS_n defines below.
* -3 : MAX31855 with Thermocouple, -200°C to +700°C (only for sensors 0-1)
* -2 : MAX6675 with Thermocouple, 0°C to +700°C (only for sensors 0-1)
*
* NOTE: Ensure TEMP_n_CS_PIN is set in your pins file for each TEMP_SENSOR_n using an SPI Thermocouple. By default,
* Hardware SPI on the default serial bus is used. If you have also set TEMP_n_SCK_PIN and TEMP_n_MISO_PIN,
* Software SPI will be used on those ports instead. You can force Hardware SPI on the default bus in the
* Configuration_adv.h file. At this time, separate Hardware SPI buses for sensors are not supported.
*
* Analog Themocouple Boards
* -------
* -4 : AD8495 with Thermocouple
* -1 : AD595 with Thermocouple
*
* Analog Thermistors - 4.7kΩ pullup - Normal
* -------
* 1 : 100kΩ EPCOS - Best choice for EPCOS thermistors
* 331 : 100kΩ Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for MEGA
* 332 : 100kΩ Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for DUE
* 2 : 200kΩ ATC Semitec 204GT-2
* 202 : 200kΩ Copymaster 3D
* 3 : ???Ω Mendel-parts thermistor
* 4 : 10kΩ Generic Thermistor !! DO NOT use for a hotend - it gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
* 5 : 100kΩ ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G - Used in ParCan, J-Head, and E3D, SliceEngineering 300°C
* 501 : 100kΩ Zonestar - Tronxy X3A
* 502 : 100kΩ Zonestar - used by hot bed in Zonestar Průša P802M
* 512 : 100kΩ RPW-Ultra hotend
* 6 : 100kΩ EPCOS - Not as accurate as table #1 (created using a fluke thermocouple)
* 7 : 100kΩ Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01
* 71 : 100kΩ Honeywell 135-104LAF-J01
* 8 : 100kΩ Vishay 0603 SMD NTCS0603E3104FXT
* 9 : 100kΩ GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1
* 10 : 100kΩ RS PRO 198-961
* 11 : 100kΩ Keenovo AC silicone mats, most Wanhao i3 machines - beta 3950, 1%
* 12 : 100kΩ Vishay 0603 SMD NTCS0603E3104FXT (#8) - calibrated for Makibox hot bed
* 13 : 100kΩ Hisens up to 300°C - for "Simple ONE" & "All In ONE" hotend - beta 3950, 1%
* 15 : 100kΩ Calibrated for JGAurora A5 hotend
* 18 : 200kΩ ATC Semitec 204GT-2 Dagoma.Fr - MKS_Base_DKU001327
* 22 : 100kΩ GTM32 Pro vB - hotend - 4.7kΩ pullup to 3.3V and 220Ω to analog input
* 23 : 100kΩ GTM32 Pro vB - bed - 4.7kΩ pullup to 3.3v and 220Ω to analog input
* 30 : 100kΩ Kis3d Silicone heating mat 200W/300W with 6mm precision cast plate (EN AW 5083) NTC100K - beta 3950
* 60 : 100kΩ Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor - beta 3950
* 61 : 100kΩ Formbot/Vivedino 350°C Thermistor - beta 3950
* 66 : 4.7MΩ Dyze Design High Temperature Thermistor
* 67 : 500kΩ SliceEngineering 450°C Thermistor
* 70 : 100kΩ bq Hephestos 2
* 75 : 100kΩ Generic Silicon Heat Pad with NTC100K MGB18-104F39050L32
* 2000 : 100kΩ Ultimachine Rambo TDK NTCG104LH104KT1 NTC100K motherboard Thermistor
*
* Analog Thermistors - 1kΩ pullup - Atypical, and requires changing out the 4.7kΩ pullup for 1kΩ.
* ------- (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
* 51 : 100kΩ EPCOS (1kΩ pullup)
* 52 : 200kΩ ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1kΩ pullup)
* 55 : 100kΩ ATC Semitec 104GT-2 - Used in ParCan & J-Head (1kΩ pullup)
*
* Analog Thermistors - 10kΩ pullup - Atypical
* -------
* 99 : 100kΩ Found on some Wanhao i3 machines with a 10kΩ pull-up resistor
*
* Analog RTDs (Pt100/Pt1000)
* -------
* 110 : Pt100 with 1kΩ pullup (atypical)
* 147 : Pt100 with 4.7kΩ pullup
* 1010 : Pt1000 with 1kΩ pullup (atypical)
* 1047 : Pt1000 with 4.7kΩ pullup (E3D)
* 20 : Pt100 with circuit in the Ultimainboard V2.x with mainboard ADC reference voltage = INA826 amplifier-board supply voltage.
* NOTE: (1) Must use an ADC input with no pullup. (2) Some INA826 amplifiers are unreliable at 3.3V so consider using sensor 147, 110, or 21.
* 21 : Pt100 with circuit in the Ultimainboard V2.x with 3.3v ADC reference voltage (STM32, LPC176x....) and 5V INA826 amplifier board supply.
* NOTE: ADC pins are not 5V tolerant. Not recommended because it's possible to damage the CPU by going over 500°C.
* 201 : Pt100 with circuit in Overlord, similar to Ultimainboard V2.x
*
* Custom/Dummy/Other Thermal Sensors
* ------
* 0 : not used
* 1000 : Custom - Specify parameters in Configuration_adv.h
*
* !!! Use these for Testing or Development purposes. NEVER for production machine. !!!
* 998 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 25°C or the temperature defined below.
* 999 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 100°C or the temperature defined below.
*
*/
If I need to modify the firmware myself, this thing is going into the trash can.
Well, I was about to offer you a custom version of my latest firmware, however, I won’t make a compile for a SV04 that is about be trashed. Besides from that, without knowledge about your thermistor types I won’t even start.
/R
Björn
I apologize if I come off ungrateful ,this is the furthest I’ve gotten in the last 14 months trying to use this printer. The only time I been able to mold a part is with pla at 260.
I don’t know how to identify what kind of thermistor I have I have a picture of the thermistor hot end from the left extruder
If you’re willing to help me I will try and get this thing going. I’m not a newbie at this stuff I’m an accomplished CNC programmer when I retired I managed 2 prototype SLA printers and at the time of brand new prusa filament printer. I had Engineers running them I just managed them ,I didn’t have to deal with all the problems. Oh back in the good old days.
The picture won’t help finding out the thermistor type. Anything imprinted on your spare part or the paperwork/bill that came with it might be helpful.
Is this corrosion on your heat-block? Maybe this insulates the thermistor…
Finding out the thermistor type would require to measure electrical resistance at several temperatures & compare it to the charts of known types. The calculator I linked above above can give a clue by entering three resistance-temperature pairs.
BTW: Did the behaviour of your SV04 change in any way after re-installing the firmware?
/R
Björn
The 3 hotends that I have all came from Sovol, 2 were shipped in the machine and I bought the spare and some more .4 mm nozzles from Sovol’s website. The hotend in the picture is the one that shipped in the machine and is the left extruder and has been used the most, the spare hotend is almost new. I may have the numbers that are needed for the chart. I do not see a link for the chart in the last post.
I tested all 3 in a home toaster oven (not a calibrated lab oven) so I am sure how close we need to be.
All 3 tested very evenly in resistance at the different temperatures.
If I knew where to buy hot ends with thermistors with a known value ,I would buy new high-ends so that we can complete the firmware.
Tom,
- Before ordering anything you should be sure that re-installing the firmware didn’t solve the problem.
- The link to the sensor chart is here. IMHO the default 100 kOhms type is depicted in characteristic 8402 on the right side of page #7 & #8.
- Maybe your results match an other characteristic of the sensor chart.
- Sovol still seems to sell hot-end kits. You could just ask them whether the thermistor inside is compatible to the EPCOS 100 kOhms type that is supported by their firmware.
/R
Björn
Björn
I would like to thank you for your time and help, but I believe it is time to cut my losses and move on to different brand printer.
I now believe that they is something wrong with the motherboard.
It appears that at this time Sovol is not shipping parts to the US, so I can’t fix it.
Sovol technical support is anything that supportive.
Thank you,
Tom
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