Wondering if anyone’s having bed adhesion issues with PLA specifically on the ZERO.
PLA is normally the easiest to print and stick to the bed, but with the ZERO, I almost cannot print PLA.
I’m printing ASA, ABS & TPU fine, but bed adhesion with PLA just will not stick to the plate.
The plate is clean, washed regularly with dawn dish soap and air dried, use isopropyl alcohol to spot clean to remove any finger prints etc.
At first it looked like maybe the auxiliary fan was too high/strong, causing the print to lift after a few layers, so lowered that, and even disabled it, but still can’t get prints to stick.
Have tried several different brands of PLA, all which print perfectly fine on my other printers.
I have played around with the Z heights, even with extreme squish it’s not much better.
If the print in lifting with PLA, it’s too hot.
You can print with the top & door closed, but if it’s a long print or your printing all day you might want to try removing the top or leaving the door open.
You can also use glue.
I had the same problem with the standard build plate, PLA does not stick very well. I switched to a BIQU CryoGrip Glacier plate ( Build plates - #49 by sebastianha ) and it’s like night and day! Yesterday I had a 2h print where parts only had 2 walls at the bottom and I did not need any brim.
Had no warping on PLA, but first prints on printer was problematic. Good (depends) thing that i have same issues with Ender, and was prepared with few bottles of spray with glue for adhesion. So, before second print i washed bed, sprayed it, heated to prepare surface, and after that everything was perfect. And after that i spraying it from times to times, when printed parts remove with themself much layers of glue.
Also, for PLA i thought that is mandatory to leave door opened, otherwise its big change (based on forum) to have a heat creep and clog. Luckily, i had none.
Looking forward to test Glacier plate, already ordered and received that with A1 mini size, but have no time or courage to cut it down to Zero format..
The only time I had an issue with PLA adhesion was when I switched to a hardened steel nozzle and had to add 10c to the nozzle print temperature. Check your PLA profile matches the manufacturers specs and then make any adjustments to compensate for Nozzle/Plate differences. Otherwise it may be that your bed or nozzle thermostats aren’t reading correctly causing the bed/nozzle to be at incorrect temps.
Same for our Sovol Zero, I also found I needed to use glue for quite a few of my prints. I’m also new to the 3D printing world, mistakes will be made …
Even after tuning and adjusting bed temps per the filament manufactures recommendations, I found glue just made it easier and I wasted less filament with failed prints. I either use Comgrow glue stick, or I recently found TEQStone JT16 glue stick which really helps if you are printing with a Matte PLA that warps. Of the two I prefer to use the Comgrow when printing normal PLA, the TEQStone JT16 has a lot more adhesion and use it when I need.
Also after using glue a few times on the plate, I clean the Stock PEI plate with warm water, sometimes it Dawn dish soap (what we use, probably can be any) and always spray it down with some IPA to remove any of the soap residue, then dry. I do not know if this is good or bad, but it seems to work.
The stock textured pei plate on my zero gives about the same adhesion as similar textured pei plates do on my other printers. If you are getting ok adhesion with ASA and ABS then my guess is your plate performs similar to mine and your adhesion issue is due to a difference in what you are printing or how you are printing it versus your successful prints in other filament types. Maybe you are printing faster in PLA and need to slow the first layer more? Adding a brim can fix adhesion issues especially for objects with challenging geometry.