Ok… noob here. Just put together my sv06. Followed the instructions for set up, loaded the filament, started the print and it came loose from the bed. Read through comments about bed temp adjusted that and it still would not stick. Used the glue stick and finally was able to get it to stick.benchy boat started printing just fine until it made it to the roof. Broke loose from the bed. Tried again with same results. All of this was done with the white filament provided. Switched to some black OVERTURE black pla 1.75mm. It laid
down a much better base. Thought I had it made but only managed to print about half before it broke away. Try several attempts only to have them fail at the same place. Decided to try the white filament again only to have it fail now at the same place as the black filament. So it has gotten worse as it goes. At complete loss of what to do except return for refund at this point.
Hi,
Not too much ?
I print PLA at 190° - 60°.
Either way, the filament supplied with the printer is rotten, it is very brittle.
He can put it directly in the trash.
It’s probably because your Z-Offset is too high.
The ways people calibrate Z-Offset are mostly just lazy and imprecise.
Start with the paper test, which is the one with the sheet of paper under the nozzle.
Then grab this model: Printables
Slice that, but change its height to be your first layer’s height, and print it.
If the lines are not joined, lower the head. They should make a single solid piece that is smooth, not rough.
Repeat printing and moving the z-offset until it’s good (good, not perfect), then reprint the test print.
NOTE: Becareful moving the Z-Offset, you can crash the head into the bed and bend the heck out of it.
Firstly, dont give up. It can be super disheartening when things start out this way, but there is always help at hand. Straight off the bat as per other hsers suggestions, the print temp needs to go up. I normally print at the recommended MAX temp for most if not all filamemts, or 5°c higher. Also ive found with pla, sometime it does just behave badly with bed adhesion. A simple fix can be to increase bed temp to 68°c. Thus slightly softens the base layer making it stick better. Can result in a very minor amount of elephants foot (warping/enlargement of the base layer) but its almost never noticable and well worth it for a finished orint rather than a half done mess. LASTLY, and this is where i had heaps of issues at thw start is: CLEAN YOUR BASE PLATE. it might appear clean, but if you have even so much as laid a finger on the print base surface where you are printing, the natural oils on your hands and skin will work as a lubricant as pretty much guarantee nothing will stay stuck
Bewt way to clean in between jobs is with 99-99.98% alcohol. Ive found my local hardware carries a spray version that works great. This plus ideally paler towel or a microfiber cloth are the trick. Also, make sure once youve spreayed and wiped, I find it is often best to rewipe with a new piece of paper towel incase there is any residue left from the alcohol spray that evaporated before you wiped it clean off. All this being said, every month or so you should still take your base plate a rinse with hot soapy water for a proper clean. I would of paid handsomely for these tips when i stsrted out, so i hope they help you and you havent lost all hope yet! If you need anymore advice ask and im sure someone will have the answer. I’ve only been at this for about 6 months but already learnt so much, so i just hope i can repay the favor by helping others👍
I would recomend studying from this webpage: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer
CAUTION: THE RETRACTION ON THE SVO6 IS 0.5mm OR LESS. A couple of notes: The page uses much more complicated printers. The SV06 bed z probe height is around - 2.00 mm + or - up to .05mm . I like to use the soup can method to get the z axis motors aligned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH7nQ1z6Y1M 8:15. Also, as Sovol-Klipper-CRap says keep the bed surface clean. I uses mild temp water and dish soap, and never touch the build plate. I like to use a brim in the slicer if possible. And for large PLA prints, I still seem to need glue stick glue. Honestly, I mostly print with PETG and TPU with a first layer height of 0.25mm and have very few issues. I tune the temperature as needed in ± 5 degree increments on both the nozzel and the bed to get things just right (while printing). I also tune the z offset the same way in small increments. Once I have things just right, I transfer my temperature settings to the slicer profile. The z offset stays stored in the printer.
