As I travel deeper down the 3D printing rabbit hole, has any experimentation been done using the SV06 and various filament types beside PLA? Do we have an available set of recommendations for things like PETG, ABS, Wood filled, PTU, or others?
I’d prefer to learn from others than ruin my new 06 through ill-conceived trial and error.
the SV06 has already been presented in detail on youtube
if I’m to guess, PETG shouldn’t be a problem
PLA filled with wood might work,
but filament with additives can damage the nozzle
white filament is also said to wear down the nozzle.
TPU and flex can be printed more slowly, you can try it
for ABS and ASA you will need a closed room and ABS stinks.
the temperature of the heating bed is already close, maybe
or you are trying on your risk
But I can’t guarantee that it works
just watch videos and you’ll see what’s challenging and what’s easy
another tip, PLA is solid,
PETG is very slightly flexible and can handle a slight impact.
but PETG can deform under continuous overload
when PLA gets overloaded it breaks
Some materials do not tolerate sunlight, some do
Hi @Jenss - do you have any specific YouTube vids you would recommend? Unless we’re seeing different YouTube search results for Sovol SV06, all I’m finding is unboxing and general reviews.
print slowly TPU = Flex
do you know the help page:
google: help prusa3d materials
if you use the same filament you have settings there that you can take and adapt to your printer
or you get an idea how to do it.
But you will have to do the fine tuning yourself.
I switched out the stock nozzle for a 0.6mm Diamond Back, since it’s extremely abrasive resistant and has a thermal conductivity close to brass. Printed all these with zero issues: Polycarbonate, CF Nylon, CF PETG, CF TPU, TPU, PETG, ASA, and PLA.
Thanks - I’ve ordered a set of tungsten alloy .6mm and .8mm tips.
Also, I’ve had communication with one of the more technical Youtubers and we’ve sorted my new PLA and PETG settings - It amazes me that there are standard PLA brands that range from 175C up to 255C for the printing temp.
I’m also looking at the new version of the Lychee slicer from Mango. It now supports FDM and has a predefined config for the XV06 (and other Sovol3D models).
I’ve had a lot of trouble printing TPU myself. The first couple of prints were decent but I started getting clogs and just couldn’t get it to extrude after that. I had to forcefully yank the filament out of the extruder because the drive gears are so weak.
Haven’t had any issues with PLA or PETG, though.
Personally, I would stay away from Lychee because you have to pay for a subscription to unlock basic features. There’s several open source slicers that are completely free.
Also, if you are using anything above a 0.4mm nozzle, you want a slicer that uses the arachne engine, which is a variable perimeter generator resulting in much nicer looking prints. Cura, PrusaSlicer, and SuperSlicer are the only ones I’m aware of that use arachne. It’s a must have for bigger nozzles unless you don’t care at all about quality. If you don’t like Cura, Try PrusaSlicer and use the prusa mk3 profile since the sv06 is a prusa clone. Might need to tinker with the extruder offset or just copy Sovols profile settings off their website.
With TPU, try lower retraction speed and distance or get rid of retraction completely. Also make sure your temp is no higher than it needs to be. TPU is highly susceptible to heat creep.
Hi @ImTheLiquor ,
I had a similar issue with weak drive gear. The solution in my case was tightening this knob.
Once tightened it started to work as I would expect.
Hope that helps!