Have you tried changing the z hop?
1 Like
The Zero has a load cell under the bed and calibrates the distance between nozzle touch and eddy measurement! So i would expect that it works flawless.
1 Like
I understand that the use of the load cell for levelling was removed in 1.4.x firmware
1 Like
I think you’re right that the inductive probe is sensing the metal underneath, not the G10 surface.
As for changing the code, I think I’ll go with stock Klipper and deal with that. I’d rather deal with a standard environment even if I lose for the moment some of Sovol’s tweaks.
Ah, but it doesn’t. I think @chan.twisticles is correct. My firmware is 1.4.7.
Oh, i never realized that. Does anyone know why it was removed.
Because it didn’t work well
The way they mounted the loadcell requires the build plate and heated bed to “bend” in the middle to get an output from the loadcell.
Combine that with the discovery that they can detect nozzle contact by watching the eddy sensor output as the nozzle touches then lifts. The revised Z offset calibration macro SHOULD accommodate a thicker buildplate coating coating unless it is VERY squishy.
2 Likes
I just received my BIQU CryoGrip Glacier plate and cut it down to fit the Sovol. So far I am very happy with it, doing some test prints right now. Cutting down with a Dremel works fine and takes only 15min. I got the plate for about 11$, so I think it’s a good deal.
Update: Did two PLA test prints with a hollow long cube (2 walls):
With the Glacier plate I could lift the build plate up only holding on the printed piece. Bed adhesion was very good! Same print with the original plate came loose by barely touching it.
5 Likes
https://a.aliexpress.com/\_ooyqDdTAnother 160mm build plate option from Ali.
I wanted smooth and textured but what was delivered was textured both sides. I’m following up.
Found these plates by OSEQ. Good price and EU based. The dimensions in the pictures seem to be from another size plate. Will post an update once i receive it.
I now also bought the BIQU CryoGrip Frostbite plate and trimmed it down. The first time I did it with a Dremel “by hand”, now I printed the mini Dremel table saw (Table saw for Dremel by Fearless | Download free STL model | Printables.com) and the result is much better. Here are some photos:
The table saw
Comparison, left by hand, right with table saw
Build plates side by side
Perfect first layer with Frostbyte plate
4 Likes
Interestingly the glossiness depends on the build plate. Both ESun Matte PLA, same GCODE. Glacier plate on the left, Frostbite on the right.
2 Likes
I have been using a Creality epoxy plate I bought for my K1 that I cut down for my Zero. I like these plates, the texture is minimal and it gives good adhesion with the filaments I commonly use. Many filaments stick better on this than the stock PEI sheet at bed temps 5 to 10 C lower. The plate is double sided and inexpensive, current sale price on Amazon is $7.99.
I cut mine fast with a jig saw using a fine tooth blade for cutting metal. I snugly clamped the plate between 2 sheets of 1/8” plywood to give it support while cutting. The cut left a modest burr which cleaned up fairly easily with a hand file. I cut over sized, roughly 175 mm per side so the cut edges are far from the print area in case there was any warping of the plate near the cuts. The excess also means there was little need for precision in measurement or the straightness of the cuts.
1 Like