Adhesion & Warping Prints

Hi,

I printed some stuff, the smaller stuff was fairly good but this larger piece went wrong, forcing me to print this half separately but it does show what appears to be going wrong. I was losing adhesion but on this print I used a glue stick (which looks to be much the same as Pritt Stick, maybe a UK brand) and, although the print finished, it still pulls away.

Can anyone give me some advice as to why this is? I have some ideas… the obvious one is it’s just not sticking but another idea is that the print is colling at different rates so, on larger models, warps the print away from the print bed.

Print temperatures during printing are 60 degrees for the bed and 210 degrees for the hot end (hardened steel), I’m using Ziro High Speed PLA and slicing using Orca (with CV additions)

Any advice appreciated :slight_smile:

James

Hardened Steel, increase your hotend 5*-10*.
Also increase your Brim to 6-8 lines.

Can you post a top pic of the model or from the slicer, it looks like it might be an outline.

1 Like

You mean like this?

It shouldn’t be an outline because I designed it myself in Fusion 360 then exported it as an STL. The above is, however, only half the model, since it went wrong about 60% of the way through the whole print. The whole model looks like this:

Thanks

James

Ok, it’s a watch charger…I designed something similar myself.

How were you trying to print that..??
In the pics you have the cord side up but is the screenshots you have the stand angled.

I was forced to print half separately because it went wrong about 60% through… made a guess as to how far to print from using Orca’s cut function but it was guess work because I caught it some time after it went wrong. I haven’t yet figured a method of where to print from if it does go screwy.

I was printing it on its side primarily because of the cord lugs on the “top” side which I figured would be problematic in terms of supports if face down… this preview gives a better idea:

The part that had printed (before it first errored) had also warped along it’s lower bed edge as you can just about see here (it bends away slightly at each end):

My best guess is that account for the adhesion problems i.e. it warps away from the bed becoming less well fixed (possible even bending the upper surface nearer to the moving head so getting knocked out of position). To my mind, it appears to be more a problem with higher layers where I assume lower [cooling] layers are pulling or something but I can’t be sure.

Do you have any idea what is causing it and, more to the point, how I can stop or counter it?

Thanks

James

Actually, I would flip the model over. The cable path shouldn’t be that much of an issue.

Here is mine for example:

Very similar to the one I had for my Diesel smartwatch but I have a different one (with its own challenges) now.

I was looking at this article…

… and wondered if my cellar was part of the problem by which I mean I’ve done very little to make it habitable so it tends towards cooler. That suits me but might not suit 3D printing as much and I wondered if building an enclosure around the printer mightn’t be a good idea… properly insulated, I’m guessing the bed itself would be enough to raise the temperature within although it might need some time before starting to print. I did trying building something out of foam board, mostly to cut the noise, but it wasn’t very efficient… might help with heat though!

Thanks

James

You can try increasing your bed temp to 70*.

1 Like

From the link above see the print speed section

An easy way to implement that in Orca is

For troublesome model/filament combinations I’ll go as low as 10mm/s for both the speeds an as many as 8-10 layers. Each layer will print a little faster until you’re at full speed.

Another consideration

I avoid “high speed” filaments. The additives that lower the viscosity when melted can cause stringing, adhesion, and shrinkage (curl/warp) issues.

Normally, with PLA, an enclosure is unnecessary.

What is your fan speed?

This was while it was printing.

Is that what you mean?

James

Thanks, I’ll check those settings.

I managed a whole print for my smartwatch stand but it was still slightly warped at the edges.

James

For PLA, you have to set the hotend fan at 100%.

A quick apology for my delay in replying… real life has got the better of me for now so I haven’t been able to put any of the above to the test. I will do, but it’ll take a week or two.

Thanks

James