Update: The Eddy sensor is being used. And when moved to far to the left it is no longer over the bed and does not work. That is why it failed for me.
I tested it by holding some metal under the sensor after running RUN_PROBE_VIR_CONTACT. It stops when metal is near the Eddy sensor.
I left for a week and turned off my Zero. I usually leave it on. I powered on my Zero this morning and tried to print and everything looked OK until it tried to zero the nozzle height at the left front of the bed. It jammed the nozzle into the bed and aborted with “No trigger on probe after full movement”. I verified that my Zero was still running 1.4.7 firmware (2025-5-20), and hadn’t installed an OTA update. I tried calibrating the Eddy probe from the Zero’s front panel but that didn’t help. I then did a factory reset from the front panel and did the full calibration and it worked with the original CLEAN_NOZZLE macro. 
However, I recently made some major changes to the Start G code in Orcaslicer to print a short prime stripe next to the silicone wiper instead of below the part, and I had gutted a lot of complexity that I believe was mostly responsible for bed mesh scanning. The OrcaSlicer Start G code wasn’t reset by the factory reset, but there may be some interaction there.
I just installed your CLEAN_NOZZLE macro and came across a config parse error.
This is your code
The board changes the double quotation marks to a different font which results in a config parsing error.
I hope this will be the end of faulty first layers.
I can confirm your CLEAN_NOZZLE with the appropiate double question marks and firmware 1.4.7 does work.
First layers are flawless.
Where is this macro / cmd “RUN_PROBE_VIR_CONTACT” in the files ?
Also is it a good idea to tap at X30 Y30 and maybe leave a blob (i’ve had this). When not tap just outside the build area but with the eddy sensor still over the plate (other side than the silicon wiper)
I don’t understand your first question.
It does tap at X30 Y30. If it is within the print area, just get rid of it. It is possible within seconds.
I was intriged so Is earched for that macro in the whole config. There is none.
Quite funny, isn’t it?
Lines that begin with “RUN” call functions not macros.
PROBE_VIR_CONTACT is a sub function of probe_eddy_current.py
It should be in the folder \home\sovol\klipper\klippy\extras\ on your machine.
It’ll be easier to have it always tap at X0 Y0.
Glad to know I’m not the only one. I got my Zero yesterday, first few prints laid down lovely. Then it started engraving the bed. Tried everything I could think of, followed so many suggestions. Nope, today it dragged the nozzle through the PEI coating during the bed scan then as it came off the cleaning pad it shoved the plate sideways and gouged the magnet too 
The little blob of plastic that sometimes appears on the tip of the nozzle after the nozzle is pressed into the bed to cool should result in the nozzle being slightly too high on the first layer. I’m not sure why it would be too low unless it’s late in detecting the bed when probing downward and finds it lower than it actually is. Maybe recalibrate everything, starting with the Eddy sensor? From the LCD screen menu - Advanced - Eddy Calibrate.
Good luck!
PS - I received my second Zero last week but still haven’t made space for it. My initial Zero continues to be a daily workhorse, in mostly TPU-LW, ABS-CF and PLA.
I ran the Eddy calibrate repeatedly. My guess is either the probe is faulty, or it’s not mounted correctly so it’s not getting an accurate reading. If it was just software settings then my adjustments would have found a working offset, but each time it’s run for a print it’s either coming up way too low, or very inconsistent.
Have you done the Resonances test, it’s under the Eddy calibration.
Does the Eddy sensor appear to be firmly attached? It’s the little black plate on the bottom left side of the extruder as you are looking into the printer.
Is the nozzle thoroughly screwed into the heat block? With a cold nozzle, can you feel any free play looseness when gently wiggling the nozzle and hot end assembly by hand?
If you go into the Mainsail interface to the printer and manually home the Zero, jog the nozzle to Z=1 mm then disable the motors and carefully move the extruder across the bed by hand, does it look like the nozzle is maintaining a fairly uniform height above the bed? I’m trying to eliminate extreme out of tram conditions that might occur if the Zero was dropped on a corner and the frame is bent, racking the rails so they are far from orthogonal to each other.
What does the bed mesh look like? In Mainsail, on the left side of the screen, click on HEIGHTMAP and then CALIBRATE. Can you post a screenshot from that bed mesh here?
While reading through the Sovol Zero user manual, I found the following.
The manual warns that a blob of plastic on the nozzle can cause the printer to scratch the bed. I was thinking that a plastic blob on the bottom of the nozzle would cause the bed to be sensed higher than it actually is when touch sensing, relative to the Eddy probe inductive scan, so it should print higher, not lower, but if it calibrates the Eddy probe against the nozzle touch when the touch is higher because there is a blob of plastic on the bottom of the nozzle, then it’ll set the Eddy zero position higher than it should, and when it subsequently scans the bed to make the bed mesh map, it’ll see the bed as being lower than zero so it’ll try to print lower than it should?
It’s easy to get confused about this stuff. It all depends on which signals are being used to calibrate other signals, and in what order. The direct nozzle touch should be the absolute zero measurement that’s used to calibrate the Eddy probe, which is used to make the bed mesh.
It’s easier for me to design a system like this than reverse engineer someone else’s design.
I simulated the problem of a blob of plastic on the nozzle causing the Zero to print too high by putting a piece of paper between the nozzle and the build plate when it was using the nozzle to determine the Z stepper motor count that corresponds to Z=0, which it then used to determine which Eddy sensor reading corresponds to Z=0, so I know a blob of plastic on the nozzle can make the Zero print high enough to have poor first layer adhesion, but Sovol’s owners manual clearly advises keeping the nozzle clean because debris can make the Zero print low and gouge the PEI sheet with the nozzle.
I suppose I’m still confused about this even though it shouldn’t be that complicated, but definitely make sure you have a clean nozzle when printing on the Zero.
I just signed up to say THANK YOU for your solution
So far it works perfectly and should be the official behaviour. Now i’d even dare to start a job remotely without babysitting the start up 
I’m glad it’s working for you. It’s a bit tricky posting a fix like this that may not work based on several factors that neither of us can control. I don’t want to lead people astray or cause problems. I’ve made slight tweaks but not enough to warrant posting and muddying the playing field. I’m making different parts every day so I still have the occasional failed print but those are my fault (usually not enough bed surface area for a tall print) and not the printers’ fault. 
Prints that have been optimized are now very reliable.
I’m still loving the stout and precise little Zero. It’s even better with upgraded LED lighting and an improved CLEAN_NOZZLE macro.
It’s always ones personal responsibility to use something found online. But for a lazy person like me who on the other hands tends to overthink stuff it’s a great starting point to actually tackle something … but so far i had nothing to change. … only that slight pause at the end is irritating me 
I had never planned to buy the zero as i love to build stuff, it was more of an impulse buy but it’s such a sturdy platform and now i can spend my time and energy to mod it instead
So far i plugged the holes, switched the display to a 5” touch and connected the PSU cover to earth (the rest of the frame is ok but it’s only screwed into plastic 
) and already have the parts for a lightning upgrade, better internal and exhaust filtration, a 48V PSU and a klipper expander board for more and better controlled fans
my only real point of criticism would be the old school nozzle changes but with this build volume i’ll just stay on .4 most of the time … and the silicone carbite nozzle i’ve installed works great
That slight pause before printing bugs me too.
I’m going to upgrade my LED lighting upgrade (another thread in the Zero forum). I have a solid state relay that I’m going to use to switch the large LED light strip from the original LED light signal, and I’m going to completely replace the original weak LED light strip by extending the new and brighter LED light strip, and then running it down vertically next to the door opening on the right side.
The old style MK8 nozzles that screw in do seem old fashioned on this new 3D printer. I generally like simple and reliable, but I switch fairly often between a 0.4 mm nozzle for TPU-LW and a 0.6 mm hardened CM2 nozzle for ABS-CF. I’ve gotten better at swapping nozzles so it’s not a big deal. I may end up with a BondTech INDX system soon so changing nozzles may not be an issue for long.
we’re getting a little bit off topic here 
i’ll be using a RGBW Strip with klipper led-effect for control, just because i have the strips already here from my other printer
as nozzlez i use the phaetus silicone carbite v6 without problems … they stick out a bit more but thanks to the auto Z i didn’t have to change anything else
you want to install INDX in the zero ? ^^ my plan atm is to build a trident with INDX, i hope Siboor will bring a kit
or maybe i even take a look at was Sovol is bringing to the table …
