My SV06 Plus is leaking filament from the top. I think its because the nozzle and the heat break aren’t mating enough. I cannot for the life of me get the heat break to thread in (since its smooth and theres no way to tightend it). Any ideas from anyone?
Hello,
Normally, you should tighten them at a temperature of around 200°C, no less.
To do this, you can use pliers like these:
Don’t do it so abruptly to avoid breaking anything.
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+1 for the vice grips. The smooth part of the heat break is surprisingly tough. Also don’t be afraid to turn on the heater with the heat block hanging from the wires.
Make sure NOT to get the heat break too deep onto the heater block. The entire “notch” should be exposed.
The “fluid seal” is the flat bottom of the heat break against the flat top of the nozzle. This worked pretty good with bronze heat breaks against brass nozzles. The soft metals would deform slightly and seal. Titanium against a hardened steel nozzle is much harder to achieve a fluid tight seal. I have resorted to putting hardened nozzles in a drill and grinding a chamfer on the top. Be careful not to cut too far. Removing half of the area doubles the seal pressure for the same torque on the threads.
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So you guys use vice grips without any kind of protection for the heatbreak surface?
yes. Just don’t get too aggressive with the tension screw. If it slips before you are satisfied with the nozzle torque tighten a tiny bit and give it another go.
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Thanks again. By “The entire notch should be exposed” do you mean the part between the heat break and the blcok? The small silver color piece where the filament passes through?
What’s the reasoning why it shouldn’t be below flush? I couldn’t get a gap of between the nozzle and the heatblock until i was slightly below flush. If that’s really the case then I think this is a design flaw with the replacement part.
The depth as measured from the nozzle end when I got it was ~16 mm, the nozzles have a threaded length of 15.5 mm.
It’s installed now, making a good seal and not leaking (using a bright green filament to ensure thats the case). Just curious what would be the downside to it being slightly below flush. They should probably have a longer threaded area.
The closer to the heatsink the heat block is the more heat transfers across the gap. Resulting in filament melting in the “cold” part of the heat break and causing clogs.
It seems trivial but on long print most printers are barely able to maintain a cold cold end. Be mindful of anything that adds heat to the cold side.
Search these forms for “heat creep” and “clog”
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Ah that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for that. I had to go slightly below flush. Hopefully it doesn’t become an issue.
In any case using vice grips worked, but I had to sand the copper heat break a tad bit.
Hi,
May I know what for?
There was a little scoring from the vice grips that made it so I couldnt get the heat break all the way in.
I bought a teflon sheet to prevent this from happening.
I placed it between the jaws of the vice grips.
I did something similar still got some small scoring,
Teflon seems a poor choice for this application. I just wrap 3-4 layers of electrical tape around the heatbreak.
Don’t forget the temperature of the heatbreak.
Not sure an electrical tape can withstand 200°C.