SV06 - Overhangs curling upwards, making nozzle knock over the print

Different environment, ie room ambient temperature. From what you posted the clogging and failure location is a good indication of the filament not melting fast enough.

The reason you didn’t have clogging near the bed level is due to the extra heat provided by the bed. When you move further away from rhe bed you get less heat from the bedding. 185c is very low for pla.

I currently print overture pla at 215c, 70c bed, and 75% fan inside an enclosure. The garage temperature is -1 degree. Inside the enclosure is around 25c. My printers that aren’t inside an enclosure is hibernating for the entire winter.

Starting at 7:10 mark he move his printer to a different room and his prints started to fail.

How does the first layer looks like? Is your first layers warping? It could be a bed leveling issue.

Do a z-alligment first. Than bed leveling. Z-offset.

Is “enabled retraction” on? By default it should be on in cura and other slicer.

@Kgluong please stop. You are not helping. Your messages are not even remotely relevant to my problem. Do you even read my posts in this thread?

Why do you even mention clogging? Clogging is my least problem right now, it happened once or twice and I’m not sure if it was caused by heat creep due to slow printing with high temperature or weak tension of extruder gear which lead to filament grinding. Now it’s fixed, forget about it.

I have a stable room temperature. I have a good adhesion and nice first layer.
I’m not printing in a garage at -1C.
I’m not moving my printer from room to room!
185C is not low, it’s default temperature for stock 3d benchy from SD card and @AdamByram confirmed that he printed stock benchy gcode and it was great.
Retraction doesn’t matter because I’m trying to print a gcode from SD card.

@Kgluong you are throwing a lot of ideas but all of them are irrelevant because you are ignoring the main issue - overhangs curling upwards, making nozzle knock over the print.

  1. Bed adhesion is your primary issue.
  2. Poor part cooling is an ancillary issue. In this case, it is exacerbating your primary issue. Under normal circumstances, with proper bed adhesion and with the amount of part curling you’re experiencing, your prints would succeed.

Also post a pic of the bottom of your first layer, it can help us eliminate some issues. You will find what first layers should look like here. Bookmark that link, it is the print tuning bible for all serious 3D printer users.

I didn’t see any mention of z hop in this thread. If I turn that off, it scrapes some prints. My benchy on the SV06 worked with a z hop, I haven’t tried a benchy without it though. I just use .5mm. Sorry if you’ve already tried this, good luck.

I only managed to print the piece of PLA delivered with the printer with the settings from that delivered benchy gcode. For all other filaments I need to set the temperature 10 to 15°C higher than the specs of the filament in order to print (I’m in contact with support and hope they’ll solve that for me, hopefully before the end of their vacation).
=> noxxle at 225°C, bed 60°C (I have no issues with bed adhesion), but in order for the PLA to cool down fast enough I have the fan speed at 100%

maybe this helps.

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If you can’t be courteous, you have no business posting here.

There is absolutely no reason a benchy can’t be printed without a brim. The only time I need to use a brim is when I print tall, narrow parts. And as mentioned before, this could be a layer cooling issue. The cooling fan and shroud on the SV06 is terrible. I plan on upgrading mine when I get a chance. Until then, I just slow down my prints and that usually works.


In the video it looks like the parts fan is working so I assume it really is…
Maybe the fan duct is misaligned and is cooling your nozzle instead of the print…

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TL;DR - I am suspicious that Sovol has changed the PEI plate to resolve the week magnetic properties exhibited by the older product run. This is affecting both surface stickiness and heating.

@kord2003 - I am suspicious of the bed plate. When I received my original SV06, the bed plate was pretty thin and didn’t have a very strong magnetic property (as mentioned by a number of YouTubers. During my various filament experiments, I had a bad Z offset setting grind the nozzle tip into the sheet leaving trenches on the surface. I then went out searching for a quick replacement and ended up with 2 options of bed plates that were less than optimal. So, I broke down and ordered two replacements from Sovol. In the mean time, I used 800 grit sandpaper to clean up the original plate as much as I could and it is now working as original (lots of good Benchies and other items.

Shift forward to last week when my Sovol PEI plates arrived. The first thing that I noticed is that they are about .25mm thicker than the original plate and lock on the bed magnetically far more solidly than the original plate.

However, I now have issues with simple prints being made from the same filaments I’ve used many times. They are curling and failing to stick (especially on small parts).

I’ve done all of the normal things to the new plates - washed, drives, IPA’d, and even taken 0000 steel wool to the surface. In examining the heat level, I’m seeing the the bed is heating unevenly, with the other sections being as much as 10C below the center. Replacing that with my original scratched sheet and things go back to what I consider normal.

It may be that Sovol, in trying to fix the magnetic complaints, have now created a new issue with these newer PEI sheets.


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Hello @Timpraetor.
Could you please add a photo of a failed print?

I suspect that we are talking about different issues.
If I understand you correctly, you are having issues with initial layer warping which indeed might be caused by uneven bed temperature.
In my case initial layer sticks just fine on all parts of the bed and it doesn’t warp. But I’m having curling issues when printing sharp thin overhangs. It happens even when overhangs are far away from the bed.

@sv06 @ImTheLiquor
I think I found what causes the bad part cooling.
1. First of all, part cooling fan facing down is a terrible design decision. It sucks hot air from the heated bed, resulting in less efficient part cooling.
2. 4010 fan isn’t powerful enough.
3. Inefficient part cooling shroud which blows from the front and a bit from the left, providing less cooling to the back and to the right side of the print. Some other printers have more advanced shrouds which blow from the opposite sides (left/right).

But these reasons don’t explain why some users like @AdamByram get perfect benchy from SD card (185C/60C/100 fan) while other users like me suffer from undercooling even with 100% part cooling fan.

Here comes reason #4 - assembly issues.

Please take a look at the photo of a part cooling fan base plate:

These hex screws allow some forward/back adjustment of the base plate. Looks like during extruder assembly it can be adjusted all the way forward, all the way back or somewhere in between.
I think this is the main reason of inconsistent cooling on different machines.
Users who suffer from undercooling with 100% part cooling fan should try to adjust the part cooling fan baseplate and see if it helps.

Currently I’m doing some tests and I will share my results later today.

Good finds, I never noticed that the mounting plate could be adjusted. I’m trying to find a sensible way to mount a 5015 blower fan but I might have to settle for a 4020 instead (and there’s at least one mounting solution available for that size).

After a month of tinkering with my SV06 I finally managed to print benchy from SD card!
All I did is adjusting part cooling base plate as close to the nozzle as possible. You need to remove part cooling fan to get access to hex screws attaching base plate to extruder body. After adjusting you need to re-attach fan+shroud.
Nothing else was changed.


here’s a design for the 5015.

Glad you got a successful print. I’m still curious why your printer had so much trouble, even printing at low PLA temps and others like mine worked fine out of the box (mine worked fine even printing PLA at 210/215 so quite hot). I wonder if there is just that much variation in the printer quality control or something.

Either way - glad you got it printing successfully!

@AdamByram please read my last 2 messages in this thread where I described the exact cause of my problem.
TL;DR: incorrect adjustment of part cooling fan base plate causes poor cooling performance. Sovol need to improve assembly process and quality control.

@kord2003 Does your fan have this angle on it or is something wrong with mine?

Yes it’s a bit angled, that’s totally normal.


More info here from my tests on both cooling and bed adhesion:

The new PEI sheet seems to have just needed time to “age”. Now that it’s gone through a few dozen heat/cool cycles and had another full run through the Soap / Steel Wool cleaning cycle, things are sticking like they did with my original PEI sheet.

As for the cooling, my stock parts cooling shroud could be adjusted closer to the nozzle (thanks @kord2003). However, I still believe that cooling could be better, so I’ve ordered a 5015 fan and printed this new shroud design:

Once the fan arrives, I’ll do further testing and report back.