Mich0111: Yes I always store the settings.
Ajwsurfer : I washed the bed and will try the temperatures you suggested. I saw the video on the soup can method and used a ruler on both sides instead to check that they were even.
Ajwsurfer : Washed the bed with soap and water, dried it over several days and placed it back on without touching the surface. Used the settings of 65 bed and 205 for PLA. Does not stick to the bed at all. Bunches up on the nozzle.
You really donât need to dry the bed at all. When it heats to 65c the water will evaporate, but I usualy wipe the bed dry with a paper towl. Is the plastic PLA or PETG (or worse yet ABS or ASA)? I get this problem when I try to print PETG with PLA settings. If you are actualy using PLA, the âz offsetâ is too high, and/or the âz axisâ is out of alignment (I use the âsoup canâ method to correct the z axis alignement) and/or the âauto bed levelâ routine needs to be run. If you are trying to print with PETG the temperatures are 240c and 80c.
In the Cura Slicer, I put the line: âG29 ; Auto bed levelingâ in the âStart G-Codeâ right after the line âG28 ; homeâ. This way the âAuto Bed Levelâ happens before every print. Then I only need to manually make sure the âz offsetâ and âz axis alignmentâ are correct.
For me, the âZ axis alignmentâ needs to be adjusted when it becomes apparent that the bed level is incorrect on the first layer from one sided of the bed to the other. And the âz offsetâ needs to be adjusted when the it is obvious that the entire first layer is either too thin or to thick.
In the case where the plastic does not stick to the bed, either you are using the wrong plastic for the temperature settings, or the âz offsetâ is way to large (The nozzle is way to far away from the bed [for me the âz offsetâ is between -1.75mm and -2.10mm])
You can make these instead of using soup cans.
https://www.printables.com/model/528603-dual-z-axis-leveling-block
ajwsurfer : I will try with a damp paper towel before the next test. It is PLA. The Z offset is the paper width whereas the paper is almost sticking as I pull it so the Z-probe seems to be ok. I used a ruler instead of the soup can method and it seems to be the correct height on both sides. I run through all of the auto leveling before I test anything.
When I raised the temperature of the PLA to 235, that is when it seems to stick for the longest period of time, however after the PLA cooled and the second layer started to print, that is when the PLA peeled off the bed. This is very frustrating for a new product.
Lion : I canât print those at home (obviously since it is not sticking) but I will print those at work. Thank you.
One thing to check is the slicer settings. The layer height needs to be 0.2mm, and the layer width needs to be 0.4mm. Not 2.0 mm and 4.0 mm.
While you are printing the first layer, push down on the knob to click into the menu - choose âtuneâ - choose âz offsetâ, and adjust it. For negative numbers, the larger the number the closer the nozzle is to the bed. So -2.10 moves the nozzle closer to the bed, than -2.00. Click on the new number to get out of the âz 0ffsetâ to wait for the layer to print back and forth a few times. Rinse and repeat, until there is a smooth layer, not bunching, and no air gaps between lines.
My âz-offsetâ is at -1.85 right now, and I am printing PETG and TPU with a first layer height of 0.25mm, layer height of 0.2mm, and layer width is 0.4mm, temperatures are 240c and 80c. For PLA the first layer height of 0.2mm, layer height of 0.2mm, and layer width is 0.4mm, temperatures are 200c and 65c.
Hello,
I prefer mine.
When I have made rhe first one, which looked like yours, the too large top prevented to adjust correctly the horizontal bar.
BR
I have not heard back from the company about the issue. I sent videos and pictures and they have not replied yet.