Nozzle Distance

Curiosity has the better of me, so I’m wanting to see your take on this.

The Leveling guide that comes with the sv06 Plus says the proper distance between the nozzle and bed is 0.2mm, or about the thickness of a piece of paper.
I set the nozzle/bed distance with a feeler gauge to 0.2 mm, then tried a piece of paper which actually was somewhat thinner than 0.2mm.

So, do you set your nozzle/bed distance with a feeler gauge or a piece of paper? If you use a feeler gauge, what distance do you use?

Curious!

Hello,
A question of feeling.
With the SV06+ I use only paper but either a piece of 80g paper until the nozzle scratches on it, or a credit card receipt until the nozzle touches this paper.

Thanks Mich,

My question really is just one of curiosity. I too use the paper method with no issues. I became curious after really noticing the 0.2mm laid out in the guide that came with the printer.
I thought it might be worth seeing what other people did.

1 Like

Interestingly, a YouTube video I found today claims the “ideal” nozzle to bed distance for 3d printers is between .06mm and .07mm.

I suppose I’ll stay with the tried-and-true paper method. It obviously works!

Anyone with different thoughts?

The nozzle distance from the bed depends on the diameter of the nozzle being used, as the intention is to get the right amount of squish when laying down each layer.
But when you adjust Z on a printer with a z-height detector you are primarily calibrating that detector for the distance between the build plate and the nozzle tip, while the nozzle is cold. Thermal expansion at printing temps will bring the two closer together.
Z setup is just the first step of setting your printer up, and once you’ve z-levelled, bed meshed, re z-levelled and remeshed at print temperature you’ll still want to watch the first layer going down to see if you need to adjust Z in 0.005 steps to get that perfect first layer before calling it calibrated properly. With that saved you just need to re-mesh at the start of each print, z-relevel if you mess with the gantry, and z-height if you change the nozzle.
Or at least, that’s what works for me.

1 Like