So for the last few prints, I’ll walk in and my printer has made a spidery mess of filament and the entire print is knocked out of place. Why? I really need to use this soon, so I’d appreciate a quick response but if not that is okay.
example image
example image
From the 1 blurry picture…
The left corner has lifted up, maybe warping, maybe you just need to clean your plate.
The stringing looks like your Z-Offset is set wrong.
Have you changed the nozzle or done any calibrations lately..??
The 1st thing you need to do is wash your plate..use Dawn & hot water.
alright
and i did just change the filament it out maybe i screwed up there
sorry how would i fix the Z-Offset i am very new to this
thx (aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa for the 20 character limit)
new problem, the plastic is getting stuck to the nozzle and just builds up in a pile
What kind of filament are you printing with..PLA, PETG, TPU..??
Also, what are the hotend & bed temps..??
i have zero idea about the filament
bed temp is normal 60C
i am going to assume the hotend is the nozzle and its also normal 180C
We need to find out what filament you are using…
AFAIK, the only filament that prints below 210* is Sunlu Meta PLA…which is around 160*-170*.
So filament temp is most likely your problem.
Look on the spool or box for what type & brand you are using.
alright ill try and check
Sovol PLA filament
hope that helps
Yes it does.
Try printing something else, but set the hotend to 210* or 215*.
EDIT: hopefully your nozzle isn’t clogged & the print will be fine.
ok
eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee (20 character limit)
While you should totally open the calibration tab on your slicer and print a temperature tower to see what works best instead of just trying to guess off other prints… I will add the hazard that its not “only Sunlu meta”, more than half the PLA (not plus) that I’ve run printed best below 210 INCLUDING the white Sovol sample roll I got with my printer (which worked best at 200-205) or Esun white (not cool white) PLA-lite (195-200) that its currently eating (and I highly recommend). Meanwhile I found going UP to 65’c bed and laying the first layer a lot hotter (even 230’c) helped difficult shapes (like sharp corners) stick while still having most parts just fall off PEI plate once it gets under 40’c (ideally 35.. but midday air temperatures over 30’c here make that take a lot longer).
Pure PLA has a lower melting point than most blends, so heavier pigmented, metallic, matte, “high speed” or “plus” filaments will generally all want slightly more than virgin material. Sometimes its intentional, raising the start of softening more than the effect on complete melt has it set faster, letting you raise nozzle temperatures for more flow rate for a given extruder pressure (thus higher mm3) and print at higher movement speeds before getting issue, bridge better ect.
Not to be contrarian though, the rest of whats said was on point. Advice to remove the magnetic build plate clean with dish soap and hot water is excellent and will fix a LOT of bed adhesion issues by itself. The main cause of spots that don’t stick well is finger oils, if you can avoid it, never touch the plate itself, printing yourself a little bed scraper tool can help a lot, even if it just keeps the hand holding something so the fingers don’t go poking. Adding “mouse ears” or a brim in your slicer (on orca, its in the last “other” catergory) can also work on parts that give you issues, but waste a tiny bit of plastic/labor to remove them, and shouldn’t be needed for most things.
A photo of your blob would help diagnose what else might cause it.
how do i change hotend temperature
also i dont have the blob anymore and i kinda dont want to print again and waste filament
that didnt work, it melted and stuck to the nozzle and was also too soft and malleable and the shape came out wrong
The best way is to change it in your slicer before exporting G-code, on Orca its under “filament, then near the bottom of the first tab there will be “first layer” and “other layers”.. for PLA I use 230 and 200, but you’ll want to find your own sweet spot for the printer, climate and filament.
The “right now” way is use the controls on the printer mid print to change the current temperature… which is generally only suitable for a small adjustment. If you have the klipper screen just tap the temperature number then type the new one… if you don’t then spin the thumb wheel to the tune menu, select nozzle and spin the adjustment in.
please explain this to me like i am five
because i have barely been using this thing for a month
Go to the Sovol Wiki
Download the user manual.
Read the manual. If you have questions post them here and refer to the manual page you don’t understand.
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