Whenever i try to use a bed that is not made of metal, the sensor doesn’t detect it, i tried a plastic one and it went throught it because of the metal sensor, is there a way to set up a bed that is not made of metal? cause i’m having some problems with the metal one and i’d like to try different solutions
Thanks!
None, this is one of the drawbacks… You are stuck with this bed.
This is a major problem for this printer, a tremendous handicap. I have tremendous adherence problems with this bed, and I can’t solve them with the different options it offers me on the market. If I had known this before, I wouldn’t have bought it. It could be a great printer with a major manufacturing defect. It’s like buying an off-road car that you can’t change the tires on to drive on different roads. It’s a big flaw for Sovol. One solution might be to disable the metal bed sensor, but it’s terrible to do that on a new printer.
I bought a new nozzle 2 mm shorter and added a glass bed on top. but the problem is that the z offset save option is a ruse. It does not actually do anything. I proved this on the Discord and also asked SOVOL but no one has an answer. The z offset has a 5mm swig, so in theory it would work. Being the offset is Bupkis , we are out of luck.
This is very accurate. The Z does not save properly.
thx for confirming, but why would they do that?
I can’t tell you if this is a Sovol issue or Marlin. My Ender doesn’t have the issue and is on 2.1.2. My sv06p is on the 2.0.9.2 fw and does.
You could always swap the inductive probe for a BL Touch or CR Touch, it would just take a couple tweaks to the firmware.
The problem with the bed of my sv06 plus printer, concerning the BL Touch proximity induction sensor, has been solved. It is not possible to change the printer bed with the BL Touch installed. My solution to be able to change it for a more adhesive one has been to place a piece of aluminum foil ALBAL in the center of the new base. This way, I have solved the problem without having to change the BL Touch. However, one must be careful not to detach the aluminum foil and avoid calibrating outside the central area.
It’s an inductive probe, not a BLTouch. What bed did you try? Looks like what you did worked.
Si la cama funciona con este pequeño truco, la adherencia en mucho mejor
pero hay que tener cuidado de no hacer la nivelación automática por
25 puntos por toda la cama,
la cama que utilizo es esta
https://www.amazon.es/SOOWAY-superficie-Plataforma-construcci%C3%B3n-calefacci%C3%B3n/dp/B07JMT8C9R?pd_rd_w=mfJ5g&content-id=amzn1.sym.cecc3e9c-d7a8-407d-9ebe-df13af75a93d&pf_rd_p=cecc3e9c-d7a8-407d-9ebe-df13af75a93d&pf_rd_r=B43B615DMD2AM2YWG7HH&pd_rd_wg=kAFrp&pd_rd_r=a6c06d80-14c6-4969-b66c-e56e6b726b0d&pd_rd_i=B07JMT8C9R&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_t
Easy,
very very easy
make sure you nose your sovindaprobe out all the way, you must have a zed offset>overlay thickness.
whaddayawanna print on?
anything thats different, to be different?
go for it.
more to come
I really don’t recommend this aluminium foil trick.
you won’t be able to do a 16 point calibration.
If you home the printer and the foil is missing it will drive the extruder nozzle straight into your glass plate and probably crack it, and/or break the extruder.
I accidentally hit home on mine (via remote control through Octoprint while I wasn’t looking at the printer) without realising I had the PEI bed sheet removed - the sensor can’t detect the bare aluminium plate as it is non-magnetic - it drove the extruder nozzle straight into the aluminium plate and twisted the extruder mechanism about 10 degrees on the rails before I could dive for the power switch to stop it.
It damaged the extruder nozzle and left a 3mm deep hole in the aluminium bed base - it would easily have the force to crack a glass sheet IMO.
Miraculously apart from the impression in the aluminium bed base and damage to the extruder tip, no other damage occurred, (those injection moulded mounts for the extruder are strong!!) so after replacing the extruder nozzle for the spare and recalibrating the z axis everything was fine again.
I was probably lucky there wasn’t more damage like bent rails or a snapped extruder mount. Lesson learnt.
We found our adhesion issue fix was bed temp. When we bumped up the bed temp 5 degrees (65 degrees C) we got great adhesion. Printer is in a shop set at 60 degrees F so the air around it was on the cool side for what they spec’ed the temp at so the print was cooling off too quick. We do not use any type of added adhesive on it. We keep it clean using ISO alcohol and paper towel. The prior owner of our printer used hair spray and that was a mess to clean off.
