Is there a way to physically get the bed more level?
Looking at the bed mesh it ranges from -0.3 to +0.9. I would like to improve that.
I thought the ACE was totally autoleveling
yes it is self leveling but having 1.3 mm of warp is quite a lot. And it does influence the shape of the print.
If you assume the plane on the bed is flat but actually has a 1.3 mm difference diagonally that’s a problem.
Maybe it’s a default of the bed if it’s warped.
You should ask Sovol to replace the bed.
Send them an email with a picture and the order number.
info@sovol3d.com
My bed is similarly out of level. Seems the bottom is pretty low, and it’s affecting my first layer printing pretty badly. Center is often quite underextruded while an inch or two from the edge all the way around is perfect. Is there some way to tram or physically level the bed so the auto/mesh leveling has an easier job and less to compensate for?
Have you removed the foam block under the bed ?
If not, flip the printer back.
The block is between the bed and the rail.
The shipping block that was under the back of the bed? Yes. The bed wouldn’t slide fully back and forth with it in there, so I found it before I first powered on. Tricky hidden placement, though, that’s for sure
Did you let your machine do the auto-calibration?
Yes, during the initial setup phase (that was only 3 days ago for me)
The bed mesh visualization in Mainsail shows it’s pretty far out of level in the middle. Looks like a birdbath or something lol, with total difference between edges and center of 0.5 to 0.8mm, depending on which edge or corner you measure down toward the center from
Maybe your bed is damaged.
Open a ticket at Sovol with your order number and pics :
info@sovol3d.com
I don’t really know if the manufacturers are doing themselves a big favor with the permanently installed print bed. Beginners will probably love it. Switch it on and start printing. Even if the Auto Bed Level then adjusts the pressure to the print bed, it still won’t produce a perfect print. More than 1mm is just too much. I had the same problem here. There was a kink in the print bed in front of the screws in the middle. I had the sensor measure the print bed first. I have hole reinforcements for file folders with 0.1mm thickness and washers in different thicknesses. I put these under the screws. This allowed me to reduce the difference from 1.1 to 0.25mm. Not perfect but OK.
First off, make sure the z axis is mounted completely square. Otherwise, loosen the screws, adjust, and tighten.
Second, make sure the two z axis are aligned, you can do that via the touch screen’s settings panel. If you ever move the gantry up and down manually, or removed the hotend, etc. you’ll have to redo that.
And thirdly, make sure the magnetic layer is clean. Even a hair can be 0.1mm.
But likely the bed will still have some warp. It’s a budget machine after all. If the warp is a lot worse than 1mm, I would contact sovol, try to get a replacement, or send the machine back. But anything less can be solved yourself.
Mine had a range of 0.7. I’ve unscrewed the bed, slightly sanded the highest mounting pin down. And shimmed up a few other with a 1-3 layers of kapton tape. I managed to get it below 0.2mm warp. (I had to repeat that process a few times, making a new heightmap via the web interface to see how close it got.)
Then I looked at the lowest spots and put 1 layer of kapton tape on top of the magnetic bed. I might do a second layer, and add a bit more here and there. But for now it is about 0.16mm range difference. And quite flat in the middle. Most models have less than 0.1mm range difference to deal with.
Anything below 0.2mm is easily compensated by the adaptive mesh, which will have the nozzle follow the bed contours. It will fade out that compensation in the first 10 mm of the print. (Configurable in klipper printer.cfg).
Hope that helps.