Has anyone seen this before? These shifts occurred in both x and y axes. I’ve printed dozens of objects before and never had this problem.
Once you have a shift, it’s not uncommon to have another one. The nozzle will end up hitting again somewhere.
Is it a Z problem?
Should I re-tension the belts?
How to solve this
It is usually a result of 1 corner of the print lifting off the build plate.
ESPECALLY on large rectangles. Shrinkage is a fact of life all you can do is account for it.
It appears you already have a significant brim. Different filaments are more/less prone to warping. Google “3d prints warp” and you’ll get lots of information.
If I were going to print the model shown I’d Print slower and increase cooling air. I’d also use a layer height modifier to print the first 20 (or so) layers with a single perimeter wall. Geroid infill is least likely to contribute to warpage.
Oh, that is interesting. The timelapse doesn’t show any sign of a corner lifting. As I recall, the print came off the bed quite easily, but that was hours after the print and the bed had cooled.
I have an enclosure, and on this SUNOL SILK PLA print, I had the doors open, the roof piece off, and the intake/exhaust fans running at 60% (normally I leave the fans off, but reading the heater install guide it says to run them at 100% for PLA). I shut the door to my small office/print room and the room temp was about 81F/27C. The infill was GYROID (20%). I was actually annoyed that ORCA Slicer created a brim (an extra 20min plus I have to cut it off afterwards). I used the Generic Silk PLA ORCA profile (why no SUNOL profiles?), which calls for a bed temp of 55C (why not 60C or more).
I’m not sure I understand your advice. If this is a shrinkage problem, why not raise the temperature? I have heard that printing PLA with 45C chamber temp is possible. Seems to me this will keep the part from shrinking as much during the print and possibly prevent warping.
--Bob
Do you print it from a STL file ?
If yes try to repair it (Microsoft 3D builder, …)
JP
The lift need only be > layer height. I doubt you could see a .3mm shift in the timelapse.
I don’t have an enclosure on any of my printers. I’d be interested to see the results at a chamber temp of 45 °C. Are there any bridges or overhangs higher up? The high chamber temp will have adverse effects on those.
I agree, but there are no bridges, so I think the higher temp will be ok.
Unfortunately, screwed my hotend because I tried to change to SV08 0.6mm nozzle. Now I have to wait for a new one from China. Ugh.
For some reason I though SV08 and SV08 MAX had the same print head. Ooops.
Sometimes you can change from 0.4 to 0.6 by simply unscrewing the nozzle (the little thing at the end), and other times you have to change the heatbreak as well? I don’t understand.
The 4 silver nozzle/heatbreaks are SV08 and do not fit the SV08 Max (if you are paying attention you see they are much smaller). The copper colored is from the SV08 MAX. There is a copper sleeve that covers the tail of the nozzle/heatbreak and I did my best to transfer it to the new things, but I just screwed up. Ugh.
--Bob
Actually I printed from a .step file (first for me). I designed it myself in Fusion 360. Not sure using the .step file is better, but orca slicer says it is, so it must be so. 
Yes, the MAX uses the ZERO Print Head
The original SV08 heat block has the thermistor “pocket” in the area where a threaded nozzle would break through. There are 3rd party heater blocks with the thermistor moved up that use threaded nozzles.
Also note the Max (and the Zero) uses a PT1000 temperature sensor NOT the thermistor used by the older models.
The Sovol store on Amazon has some parts for the Max with fast delivery.
I had a problem kind of like this on a 36 hr. print. I thought it was warping from thermal mass, but it turned out to be the whole toolhead had come loose from all the vibration of printing. When you attach the toolhead on assembly you need to use lock tight on the screws and tighten them down hard!!! but not hard as to strip or break them. I have not had an issue since. But there are issues with the slicer setting as well. They are far from fine tuned!!! I also notice that Bambu likes to interfere A LOT!!!
Excellent point. Also inspect your Z belts (x8) and the Z belt anchors (x4). Anything that will allow the nozzle to “droop” can cause layer shift.