SV06 Stringing

I have tried temperatures from 175C to 215C, retraction distances from .5mm to 2mm, retraction speeds from 30mm/s to 50mm/s, and build plate temperatures from 45C to 60C. Maybe I didn’t strike the right balance, but I’m struggling to print a PLA retraction test without noticeable stringing. I’m new to this, and I’m not sure if I don’t understand the limitations or I don’t understand the settings completely. It seemed to work better at the lower end of my range which doesn’t make sense with other people’s PLA temp towers. 175C worked the best and it is not in the recommended range. Sorry if I was unclear with anything, and I appreciate any advice on this.

1 Like

Could you pls provide a picture of the string of the printed model for a closer look?

Meanwhile, it may be that the temperature measurement of the thermistor is not accurate, and the temperature displayed on the screen is lower than the actual temperature.

So you could check whether the read of the nozzle thermistor is normal and let me know if not, (please note that it must be measured at normal room temperature, a feedback picture would be much appreciated!)
Method of testing the resistance value: turn the multimeter to the 200KΩ, and put the pen of the multimeter on the terminal of the thermistor wire, refer to the pic below.

1 Like

I have suspicions that the temperatures promoted by the filament manufacturers are based on non-all metal hot ends. I’ve also found that I can print PLA successfully at 175C and I even printed PETG at 190C. Right now, I’m testing samples from 11 different manufacturers and not one sample has required the temperature as specified by the manufacturer on my SV06. Try 5-10C lower than the lowest rated temp from the manufacturer. Right now, I’m printing SUNLU at 185C and American Filament at 180C and getting fantastic results.

As for the bed temp, I do all of my tests with 60C except for PETG, which I ran at 70C.

I think that the SV06 has brought new parameters to the 3D printing world.


hmm… I have the exact opposite, it seems I have to print everything much higher than the highest temperature of the filament.

I get more and more the impression that the temperature sensors are not really well calibrated.

Is there something one can do about that?

1 Like

Do you have a graduated grill meat thermometer? You can check the extruder at the tip and compare to what the thermistor is reporting.


I think you might be right about this printer just requiring different parameters. It didn’t seem right, but it works better. That might be why the default was 175C on Sovol Cura, and preheat PLA was 185. It seemed low but makes sense if the best range is shifted lower.

Is your filament dry? I dry my filament inside a filament dryer for 6 hours or more before using it. You’ll be surprised how much moisture filaments have.

Sovol have filament dryer for sale. Any brand will do tho. Or you can use your oven.

I may have overlooked the possibility of moisture in the filament out of the box. It becomes noticeably goopy if I go to 215C and above, but there are no steam or bubbles even at that temperature. I have a humidity sensor that reads 35%, is this enough to negatively affect PLA even a small amount? Thank you for the advice.

I always put it in a dryer or oven before i start printing regardless what i think.

Make sure “z hop when retracted” is off.

I used the default setting recommended by sovol. Surprisingly it work very well.

With that said the string towers aren’t good indicator of string in my experience.

You might also want to check out Reddit fixmyprint group to get some ideas.

I’m not sure if I measured the correct pins, but it’s connected to the nozzle. I read about 13Ohms on the 200Ohm setting and it was not detectable on the 200kOhm setting.

The stringing is very thin and it seems the best I can do is reduce it. It wouldn’t be hard to get it off of prints, but I want to tune it as much as I can. The posts are 3mm diameter, is that pushing the limit or is this a matter of tuning slicer settings?

Turning z hop off made a big difference. These prints are 200C, I’m using comb all, .4mm outer wall wipe, 1mm retraction distance, and 30mm/s retraction speed. What have you found are the best retraction settings? Also why are the towers bad for the test?

I don’t use string towers anymore because they are inconsistent. Most string towers are circular which most prints are not.

Here is my settings for Overture PLA. It should work with any PLA filament tho.


Wow, your settings worked perfectly. 0 Stringing except for the final part which is no problem. Thank you for sharing. I guess coasting is better than combing. I think combing may push filament up the side of the nozzle. I didn’t think I could get up to 215 without stringing more. This print quality is amazing.

About z-hop that you should be aware off. If you’re doing complext wireframe mash model, you probably need to turn on z-hop to prevent a fail print. Other than wireframe models, turning off z-hop will work on all prints. It something you should keep in back of your mind.

This vido can explain it better than me. If you have some free time, you should watch it.

A popular wireframe model you might print one day. Reddit 3d printing is also a good place to go.

Z-steam alignment. I alternate between “shortest” and “sharpest corner”. It depend on the preview of the model. Which one hide the z-steam better.

Z-steam is the white lines on the edges.

I had bought cheap PLA.
It was still sealed in the bag, but there was stringing immediately after unpacking.

Next time I’ll buy made in EU not China.