I have a Sovol SV01. The original, not the pro. I am having some leaking hotend issues and am wanting to replace the hotend with an all metal hotend. I have decided to use the E3D revo hotend, but don’t know what size or how to change firmware in the least. I also have a CR-touch and fear I will have to configure around that. I don’t even know where to start. Can someone please help me?
Get the 40w 24v. This printer can handle it.
I have a firmware that works for the Revo but you’ll have to figure out how to get the CR-touch working yourself. My opinion is that this printer doesn’t need ABL, as it’s rigid and repeatable enough not to need it.
Currently trying to fix my firmware as it currently experiences an issue where the heatbreak fan is not automatically starting. Will make it available to you, if you’re interested, once that’s sorted out.
I got the revo six hotend and it said it was a stop in for the prusa style printer. The prusa printers so happen to have e3d v6 hotends as a stock hotend. This is the exact hotend the sv01 has. I have the original, not the sv01 pro. It seems to fit okay and the only issue I found was the heat cartridge and thermistor cords are reinforced with a metal piece that is a pain to squeeze into the extruder. I don’t think I will have to do any firmware configurations. Please correct me if I’m wrong because I am very new to this and would hate to mess up my printer. Thank you for the response,
Yep. That’s basically what I did, except I did it before they had the alternate thermistor for compatibility with the Prusa/Creality machines and I switched to a genuine E3D Titan instead of Sovol’s knock-off (only because I had an extra laying around. There’s really nothing wrong with Sovol/Creality’s clone).
Yours should require no firmware change. Your thermistor should have the same profile as the original and the extruder didn’t change so you won’t have to configure e-steps or microstepping.
The only thing you should have to do is get access to the terminal and PID tune the heater, save the settings and enjoy the ability to print PETG without massive blobs escaping around the threads. 
I have 2 questions off of that. One, how do I do that pdn terminal thing you were talking about (and what even is it), and secondly, you mentioned PETG leaking through the threads. The revo combines the nozzle and heat break so filament doesn’t squirt out the heat block. I need a lot of help. Also, how much do you tighten the nozzle/heat break? Can I possibly over tighten it?
The PID tuning is something you should do to tune the firmware to operate correctly with the heater. You’ll need access to terminal. If you’re using Octoprint, you already have terminal access. Just click on the “Terminal” tab on the main page.
If not, you’re going to have to learn how to establish a USB to TTY connection to your printer, the scope of which is too big for me to detail here.
I think you misunderstood me about the leaking threads. I was congratulating you. You’ll never have to deal with that problem again once you have the Revo working.
Once you have terminal access, you’ll want to check out the Marlin Firmware guide on the M303 command. M303 starts the PID autotune. You have to add other arguments to the command. For example, if you want to tune the hotend and you know you’ll be printing PETG, you want to tune for a temperature a bit above the temp you’ll be normally printing at. The command would look something like this:
M303 E0 S250 U1
That tells it to start the PID autotune for Extruder 0 at a temperature of 250 and to actually write the result to memory instead of just showing it on screen. You follow that command with M500, which saves the setting in the EEPROM so you don’t have to run the tune every time you start. If you don’t do the PID tune, you may encounter weird behaviour from the hotend because the firmware is expecting a much weaker heater. Your temperature will fluctuate quite a bit because the E3D heater is more responsive and will overshoot the target temp.
Make sure that, when you run the tune:
- Get your filament out of the hotend first. It’s going to take a long time (at least five minutes) and it will burn any filament left in the nozzle. If it’s a brand new REVO then you probably haven’t put any filament in it yet, so that’s good.
- Your parts cooling fan and heatbreak fan should both be ON. Otherwise, it’s going to think something is wrong when it tries to set the temp during an actual print and one of the fans cools the nozzle. It might even trigger thermal runaway protection, which will cause a failed print. Running the PID tune while the fans are on will assure that the printer is already compensating for the additional cooling.
- Don’t forget to save the settings with M500.
I am using Marlin and the slicer I am using is Cura. Can I do the PID autotune without configuring firmware. Also, when you said I need to establish a USE to TTY, is that just connecting it with a USB?
Sorry, but with you using TTY and PID it’s like texting OMG, or LOL, or GG, or even yeet to your grandma. 
What if I usually print PLA, but would like to experiment with other filaments like carbon fiber, glow filament, and even polycarbonate? Can I just change these settings in the slicer?