here is the issue, not sure what it is, but any print failed after a couple minutes …
here a photo when it start
and here after a couple minutes
PETG Ouverture, here the 3mf
filter.3mf (21.9 KB)
I tried to lower or raise Z during print, or speed, or flow, nothing change.
I replce the nozzle, to be sure, still no improvement.
change temperature, no change.
I am in 3D printing for more than 10 years, but never see something like that, good at start, then getting worst and worst …
Looking at your photos my first thought is damp filament.
That is a brutal model with all the stop starts on the crossing bars…
If your filament is dry then your pressure advance must be way way off.
Print a PA test tower from the calibration tab in OrcaSlicer. Send us a couple pictures of that.
Troubleshooting 3D printer failures often involves checking firmware settings, hardware connections, and calibration parameters to identify the root cause of the issue. Resources such as the Klipper Documentation provide useful guidance for diagnosing printer communication and configuration problems. I also found this overview of the Software Development Life Cycle (SDLC) helpful because it highlights the importance of systematic testing, validation, and troubleshooting when resolving technical issues.
That temp tower looks awful. It also looks like it’s printing too cold.
I have 1 PETG that I have to print at 270*.
I would try another tower, one that’s hotter..maybe 250* to 275*…try an ASA/ABS tower…JMO
Ouverture PETG, recomended temperatures: 230 to 250
but I will try 240 to 270
Every sample makes me think “wet filament”. Do you have another roll to try?
A partial nozzle clog is another possible cause.
Raise your gantry and manually extrude 100mm of filament. start slow, if the strand isn’t smooth suspect moisture. As you go faster and faster is the strand smooth and comes out straight down? Bumps/pits = moisture, curling to the side = partial nozzle plug.
filament is brand new, dryed overnight to 30%.
nozzle is also brand new.
correction, dried to 10%
not perfect, I think I still have issues with the extrusion, or the flow …
Hello,
Have you sent an email to Sovol asking these questions?
They might be able to help you.
info@sovol3d.com
Myself, I’m not a fan of Z-Hop. It may be necessary if the designer says to use it, otherwise it should be off. Also, I don’t think you need to mess with the retraction…JMO
Maybe your extruder pin has slipped out of place.
No matter how well you tune the max, you’re likely to still run into problems if you use the default infill pattern on Orca. You’re better off with a non-crossing pattern like gyroid.