Hello,
what is the temperature I should set the hotend, before unscrewing the nozzle?
And what is the torque I should use, at that temperature, while screwing in another MK8 nozzle?
Any hints or tips? I’ve never done before, and I guess other people will find themselves in the same situation, so this thread may be useful in the future for many.
Thank you very much.
Can’t tell you torque values but here is what I do.
Hope this helps.
Sovol makes several marketing videos every day, usually silly/fun stuff. They should make a short video showing their procedure for changing the nozzle on the Zero and SV08 Max. Their technical videos have been very helpful in the past but they haven’t made any lately. I assume the engineers that make those videos are busy and haven’t had a chance to make tech support videos.
I talked to Sovol last week about making a video for the Zero…
I think one might be coming sometime this month.
Sorry for the late reply. We have reported this issue to the after-sales department. They have received fewer complaints about the nozzle. If possible, you can send an email to info@sovol3d.com. So they will see more requests and make relevant videos.
Don’t you have to remove the sock in order to hold the block from moving while you unscrew the nozzle? Old nozzle is removed hot and new nozzle is screwed in with block hot? Then allow all to cool down. Is there a proper size fixed wrench that will fit on the block instead of an adjustable spanner?
To answer your points, Yes, heat up, remove sock and nozzle. Replace nozzle. Sock can be refitted after cooling if you wish. SOVOL provide a wrench/spanner that fits the block but it’s a bit flimsy and loose so I use an adjustable wrench/spanner.
Thanks. I have a set of metric wrenches, I just wondered what size might fit the block, but I can always just search for one that will fit. My Zero came with the wrench for the nozzle, but not the block.
There is this video for the SV08:
You can draw inspiration from it.
Hi, just found this looking for help on a hotend issue. For reference for anyone else, am 8mm spanner / wrench will hold the heat block on the Zero, I also noticed a 1.5mm hex head grub screw on the right hand side of the heatblock which I think is used to lock the nozzle in place, I slacked that off and the nozzle seemed to undo and tighten back in easier. I could be wrong though.
You shouldn’t need to loosen any set screws, aka grub screws, to change the nozzle on the Sovol Zero.
The process is old school, and more trouble than it should be for a modern 3D printer, many of which have quick change nozzles with filament that is unloaded so all you need to do is flip a lever, lift out the nozzle, install the replacement, and secure it with the lever. The MK8 nozzle on the Zero needs to be unscrewed. I’ll be uploading some Zero tool files to Printables and Sovol’s online STL repository sometime this week and I’ll make a thread in the Zero forum about the tools I use to maintain and use the Zero. It’s evolved into a system. 
For swapping nozzles, I printed stubby handles for nut drivers that allow me to lower the bed (Z=150) to make space to work, heat the nozzle to 250 C, do the three fingered Vulcan death grip to remove the extruder cover and balance it on the X gantry, then use the nut driver (7 mm for MicroSwiss nozzles or 6 mm for Sovol nozzles) to remove the nozzle and install a new nozzle while using a 14 mm open end wrench to prevent torque from being applied to the hot end assembly, hopefully without damaging the heater or thermistor. So far, so good. I don’t remove the silicone sock so the 14 mm wrench fits over the sock. It’s a fairly tight fit but it doesn’t feel tight as the nozzle is turned and the silicone sock is compressed, but holding the wrench stationary provides a counter torque to protect the hot end, even with the sock twisting and compressing a small amount.
I should make a video showing the process. It’s not difficult but it is a bit fiddly. The small stubby handle allows enough torque to properly seat the nozzle to prevent thread leaks without encouraging enough torque to damage the delicate hot end. Remember: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty is backwards when you’re upside down.
Most metric nut drivers are magnetic and are too shallow for a nozzle. Rather than drill out the magnet, I bought deep nut drivers and stuffed aluminum foil into them to make the depth just enough to hold a nozzle with the threads exposed. Here are the nut drivers I used:
The longer steel sockets and the ABS-CF handles prevent the heat from reaching my fingers.
Look for a thread from me soon with my entire list of preferred Zero tools, the parts I 3D printed to modify them, and the magnetic tool holders I printed for the sidewalls of the Zero’s interior to organize the tools.
I have to look through my tool set, but didn’t the Zero come with a nozzle wrench..??
I have a few them lying around 
the “L” shapes ones.
I have loads of different tools anyway. I normally use a 6 or 7mm socket on a nozzle, I designed a very simple holder for it for nozzle swaps, no need for torque settings because if you don’t work quickly enough the PETG softens and it just spins
As I said I wasn’t sure about that grub screw, that’s why I mentioned it. Could also have been the thread locker on the nozzle threads. I’m currently waiting to hear back from Sovol via AliExpress as my printer is currently unusable, not a nozzle issue, it’s determined to be an engraver 