What is probably causing fraying shown in these photos?
Hello,
It sounds like delamination.
Perhaps the bed and nozzle temperatures are incorrect (probably too low) or speed fan to set.
Have you calibrated your printer?
It seems the red print is looking down on top and the yellow is from the front but upside down from how it was printed.
It looks like both are LOOOONG bridges. Those are very difficult to print. In general you need maximum cooling and a perfect nozzle speed, Slow enough to cool before it droops but fast enough to get to the other side before it droops from the weight.
Lots of guides and videos online, google is your friend.
sample site: Avoid & Fix Poor Bridging in 3D Printing | Settings & Test – The 3D Printer Bee
If the printer is correctly calibrated, it is much easier to change the print angle.
Orca has a checkbox “do not support bridges” (advanced option, second bottom of the support tab) so ensure thats not checked.
My normal advice is turn off automatic support and use the paint function where you actually want/expect it.. but seeing that model honestly consider strongly if you want to rotate the part differently, or even print it as a couple of bits that fit together. Not only will this make it easier to print, it’ll let you align the long beams to the bed so they are much stronger (adhesion between layers is less than a third of the tensile strength of the plastic along them in PLA, and even moreso in most other materials). But of course, it IS possible to simply print that part as is by adding a ton more support (which is going to impact surface roughness a little where it joins, and goes to waste) if you are certain this is the assembly and orientation thats best for you.
@MechMan50 is there a reason why you are not printing this model with the beam down?
The beam itself would probably print fine without supports in that direction, and the other supports would be shorter.