The fluid seal is heatbreak to nozzle. A gap there will leak around the heat break threads even if the nozzle is gasketed to the heatblock.
Amazingly, someone on Reddit was posting about having successfully used washers in just that way to get bimetal K1 nozzles working with the SV08. So it seems this idea isnāt crazy at all!
That said, I worry about the removal issue you noted: especially if there is a ever a filament leak, the washer might live in the hotend permanently. (That said, an extra hotend is pretty cheap, and theyāre easy to swap in the ACEās extruder designā¦ so itās tempting to try!)
Iāve been using 0.8mm Swisstech CHT brass coated nozzles and struggled with overhangs some too. I didnāt print much with the original Sovol nozzles for comparison because I wanted CHT to work.
My best advice is to run the fan at 100% for PLA and set the minimum layer time to at least 7-8 seconds. With 3 ACEās running, it sounds like a jet engine in that room but most overhangs come out clean now.
Iāve also found I need to raise the temp to 235C on silks to get consistent results which also increases the need for cooling.
Good point !! For some reason, I see pics of leakage right at the nozzle/heatblock junction. I guess it has creaped down the threads and oozed out there. Would still try a PTFE washer at the nozzle/heat break junction for a seal.
I didnāt mean to provoke a fuss with the idea. It was just a thought to save the expensive nozzle. I still believe Sovol has a responsibility. If you install a crazy nozzle, you should also offer replacements in every conceivable size and design. What weāre experimenting with here with a disk + K1, Volcano, adapter + spider is only because Sovol doesnāt offer any decent replacement nozzles. I see this as a major problem with Sovol, and it tarnishes the view of the good printers.
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How about this
Take an old aluminum heat block, put a small dab of solder paste* on your K1 nozzle. Assemble the nozzle, washer and titanium heat break in the heat block and heat to 300 Ā°C. Solder wonāt stick to aluminum or titanium. Now you have a one piece nozzle of the correct length.
- Choose your solder carefully based on flow and reflow temperatures.220 Ā°C flow - 340 Ā°C reflow solder paste
Tried this today. I purchased the exact washers from McMaster-Carr that you have pictured and I couldnāt get the washer into the nozzle side, or from the heatbreak side. Just wouldnāt thread in, so I put my hardened steel nozzle back in.
I apologize. I did look at up the thread specs for the minor diameter of a M6 thread. I though it said 5.65. It is actually 4.65.
I would put a M2 bolt thru one and super glue it to a junk nozzle and use a triangle file to cut half a thread. Annealed soft copper would only take half a dozen strokes. You probably donāt own a tiny little triangle file.