Hi guys,
I just installed a BL Touch switch and when I power on my screen doesn’t come on.
When I disconnect the wires that goes into the Z axis switch port (black and white wires) it works perfectly just the BL switch isn’t working as it’s part of it.
I had powered on before I flashed the firmware so I know the firmware isn’t the issue.
Anyone got any ideas? I’m guessing that the black and white wires need to be connected somewhere else but where?
Thanks
Conor
See if this can help.
That’s the video I used to install it 
I love Joshua Bardwell!
I did see a comment somewhere while doing my research saying they “fried the display” while fitting it but I’m guessing they had the same issue I’m having. I just have no idea where I seen that comment 
I just ran into and resolved seemingly the same problem tonight.
I had the same symptoms: no screen while touch sensor z wires connected. Once the 2 z pins were removed the screen turned on however I had no touch sensor pin self test activity on printer boot, touch sensor blue light was on though. Firstly, please note I have a 3D Touch sensor, not a true “BLTouch” and please consult your sensor instructions wiring details and verify things before blindly following my solution.
My problem was that the touch sensor supplied cable had some wires in the wrong order. I had to switch some wires around to work with the SV01.
With the sensor pin facing the floor and the connector facing me, my sensor had wire colors in the following order from left to right: (sensor expectations noted in parentheses)
Brown (Ground), Red (+5V), Yellow (Control), Black (Z), White (Z)
The 3 pin motherboard connector was originally supplied with INCOMPATIBLE ORDER: Yellow, Red, Brown
I had to switch a couple connector pins to the CORRECT ORDER: Yellow, Brown, Red
That way they are compatible with the D11 row pins:
(Power supply Side) Control, Ground, +5V (chassis side)
Simply changing the pin ordering corrected the screen issue and I immediately got self test pin activity from the sensor. I was able to run the printer with the touch sensor z wires connected.
I then had a new problem which was the probe would not detect properly and the hot end would plunge into the bed as there was no z limit from the sensor. Again my problem was the supplied 2 pin adapter for the motherboard also had the wires flip flopped. You may need to flip those wires too. Would encourage you to use the “auto home while holding an item under the sensor” method shown in the video above to verify the z limit is functioning before it tries to plunge through the bed (be prepared to turn off the printer if it flashes errors and tries to continue).
The diagram here is the wiring that worked for me. My touch sensor colors were just different because I was using a 3DTouch instead of BLTouch so that caused some confusion. Note the 2 pairs of wires that cross over each other were the pairs of wires that were out of order and that I had to flip.
Thank you so much Spartan I’ll try this this evening and hopefully it’ll fix my problem if it does I’ll be sure to buy ya a coffee 
Well that worked 
Spartan how do you like your coffee?
Now my next issue is the location of my sensor the one I bought didn’t come with a bracket so I printed one and it leaves the sensor out at the same level as the front of the fan housing so when I tried to level the bed it wasn’t going to connect with the bed! Thankfully I was ready for it and pushed the probe myself to prevent a crash into the bed!
Now is there a way to change the locations of the bed leveling probing to move it back and inch on the Y axis or should I just download and print a new bracket? This bracket does leave better room for the wires and is attached to the stepper motor bolts (I didn’t get bolts for the other threaded holes below the stepper motor and don’t want to have to source some if I can help it 
Awesome, glad to hear that worked for you too, save the coffee money for filament or more upgrades 
My sensor did not come with a compatible bracket so I printed the one above because it looked the same as the one shown in the Sovol manual and the dimensions worked out well for me so I imagine it would work for you too unless you’ve made significant modifications. It’s small enough that I just did 100% infill for rigidity and I may reprint with a stronger material than PLA in the future as I imagine this could sag over time, sensor is pretty light though so I’m not too worried about it.
My sensor is nearly touching the motor and the pin extends far enough to reach the bed before the nozzle so I’m surprised you found one that didn’t work. Does the touch sensor pin hit the bed but not retract (problem you could likely solve without a different bracket) or truly just doesn’t extend far enough (could probably print a spacer and get some longer screws or something)?
Let me know if there’s any way I can help with that, I can take some measurements of what I’m working with if that reference would help.
Oh I think I misread… did the extruder/nozzle not center before lowering? Auto home with unified bed leveling should start in the center of the bed so X/Y position shouldn’t really matter? Maybe you forgot to turn that on in the printer config and it was still trying to level in the corner of the bed as it does with the default z limit switch?
Edit: if it started building the mesh in the center of the bed but during the probing it extended past the front of the bed while the nozzle was still over the bed, then it looks like there’s some way to configure that, see XYZ Probe Offset | Marlin Firmware but tbh I don’t know where/how you set that since yesterday was my first experience flashing printer firmware/using mesh leveling/modifying slicer start gcode 
This is the one I had printed it works fine for the auto home etc just when I do a bed leveling it’s too far forward of the print head to meet to meet the bed. Theta the one you just posted being printed ATM and 90% done 
I’m still wondering if it will stay on the bed for the leveling as I think it puts the nozzle right to the LH edge of the bed but hopefully I’m just thinking about the bed leveling without the touch sensor
I have run it a few times from I updated the firmware after my last attempt to install this
I see, yeah your bracket is much further forward so makes sense it could extend off the bed while building the mesh. It is certainly tough to fit the extruder cable and touch sensor in there with the default mount so makes sense why you’d prefer this one which leaves some extra space back there. Sorry, the one I shared uses the standard sovol bltouch mounting holes and I see now you mentioned you didn’t want to source those screws if you could avoid it 
My sensor came with those screws. The printables page mentions the carriage screws are M3 x 8mm if you’re open to sourcing those to make this work, otherwise would have a look into the marlin firmware reference I shared above and see if you can figure out how to customize that XYZ probe offset to make your existing mount work.
I’m still wondering if it will stay on the bed for the leveling as I think it puts the nozzle right to the LH edge of the bed but hopefully I’m just thinking about the bed leveling without the touch sensor
fwiw while building the leveling mesh mine didn’t go far enough over towards the "default” auto-home position for that to be a problem
Aww great I thought they’d have taken that into account in the BL firmware so at least I won’t have that to deal with when I manage to find these screws, I’m sure some of the local parts suppliers will have them on the shelf and I’m missing the long one from the fan anyway and need to get it sorted it’ll be worth the spin to find all and get this installed tomorrow
Hopefully this will be me 1 step further to reliable prints, and I’ve got descant ordered so that’ll hopefully be the last step although I think my CAD and slicer knowledge will still need to improve a little 
After printing that bracket and it working out so well I decided to print a cable caddy and threw caution to the wind and done 23 pieces in one go.
And it actually worked!
I know you guys are probably printing things like this everyday but I haven’t managed to get a benchy printed successfully on this machine without a spaghetti monster so I’m well chuffed that this succeeded
Still be cautious, the supports & some pieces look under extruded.
Some of them might break while you putting it together.
What kind of filament did you use & what what the hotend temp..??
Geetech PLA+ and 200°c
All went together with no problems there is a bit of sagging on the underside of the curved bits but should be usable.
I’m just amazed that none of them came loose and wrecked the whole print on me, think I’ve finally got a hang of leveling the bed even before I have got to do a bed mesh
Don’t think I needed the supports at all but the file said to use them but there’s other parts that will obviously need the supports and it was mostly to practice
Is it under extrusion that’s causing the lines not to join each other? What way can I test and adjust that?
I will look into it more when I get a chance but in the middle of doing stuff atm
I think your printing too cold…
Try printing 1 or 2 at 210*-215* to see if they come out better.
I have done a temp tower with this filament previously was a little stringing at 220 and everything below that was very much the same down to 190.
I’ve had a lot of issues with lines not joining up with different filaments but that had been the least of my worries up until now, Now that I’ve the other issues sorted I’ll have to work on this 
Would increaseing the filament rate also improve it do you think? Along with a higher temperature as the nozzle will probably need it to help extrud more
I have new nozzles coming so was waiting to fit one to root at this end of things
What have I done now 
Got my new bracket installed, auto homed and crashed into the bed so I downloaded newer firmware (Marlin 2.0.5.3) as I couldn’t set probe offset with the old one for some reason.
Set the probe offset (@ 1.5) at the auto home location, when it auto homes now the nozzle comes down to the bed a paper thickness away x2 and then raises 10mm or so it says on the screen! But it’s actually 11.5mm away from the bed and when I try to level at corners it gets to the corners and the nozzle is 1.5mm away from the bed!
If I change the probe offset back to 0 it’s gonna crash into my bed again
I know it’s something simple but I can’t figure out whats wrong now
Edit if I try a bed mesh it’s also 1.5mm away from the bed
