No the black foam blocks for shipping are hard to see. Nothing in the manual about them being there for removal. I had the same offset as pictured as the bed was hitting the blocks. It could even print a Benchey with the blocks not removed, but could not do full Y movement. Once the foam shipping blocks were found and removed from under the bed the printer worked correctly with full Y movement. Sovol should add a note to insure the shipping protection blocks are removed as they blend in with the frame when setting up a new SV06 Ace.
You are right ! It is a damned piece of black hard foam (50 x 80 x 25 mm) that was blocking the move of the platter in the y positive direction. Without any hint, it was impossible to remark it ! It should have been mentionned in the unpacking instructions. Many thanks for your post in this thread !
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Make double sure you got them all. There are two blocks. One in front and one in the rear. Yes, Sovol needs to note that in the instructions showing the locations to insure they are removed. Have a great one and enjoy your printing!
Hello @sovol3d ,
Did you read the previous post ?
Thanks a lot. I found mine too. But only one (80x50x25). Maybe I removed the other one accidentally during unpacking and installation.
Now itās ok. No more rattling.
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Picture of the back block of foam under bed and on top of the y-movement mechanics. Harder to find as it is the same width as the y-mechanics. I actually stumbled on it by feeling as this block was sliding with the bed movement hiding it from viewing from above. Sorry, I threw out the front one which is wider and was easier to find, but yāall found that one. Dimensions are 47mm x 80mm x 24mm thick.
Hello,
Could you tell me what are your printing speeds with this printer ?
On the Orcaslicer profile, the infill speed is only 150 mm/s, as on the SV06+.
Thatās surprising.
Thanks
I am not really familiar with OrcaSlicer. Many menu items are not self expanatory. Difficult for me:
I have an SV06(Klipper) and an SV06 ACE. They have different profiles, and it is easy to get them mangled.
For my ACE I use a profile which has 600 mm/s Travel speed, sparse infill with 300 mm/s and internal solid infill with 200 mm/s. Outer wall and top surface with 200 mm/s
So itās faster than the standard Orcaslicer profile configuration.
I donāt know Orcaslicer either.
After using the ACE for a while, Iāll probably come back to Ideamaker and hope that the ACE profile will exist then.
Greetings, I recently bought an Ace through Amazon. My limited experience with the printer was positive, however, the touchscreen quickly started to flicker, flash, go white, and generally unresponsive. Resetting the printer sometimes resolved the issue, but not frequently.
Given the issues, I was inclined to returm the printer.
Has anyone else encountered this problem?
I would love to purchase another Ace, but how do I know I wonāt encounter the same issue?
Hi,
It seems Ć®tās a known issue.
Sovol has to publish a video to explain how to fix it.
Sovol is working on a fix.
They have told me there will be a video released explaining how, but currently there is no estimated time frame.
EDIT 12/09: Iāve have the fix & I did complete it this morning. Right now, Iām awaiting conformation that it is alright for me to post it.
After a week of printing, I like the printer.
I have a few little things that could be changed with a firmware updateā¦
- The screen needs more options, like a purge button. Right now when loading filament I just hit retry 3-4 times to purge.
- If you want to raise the Z axis, you have to Home first. After you Home if you hit raise Z axis 3-4 times the bed will automatically move backward & the extruder will move to the left. I would like to see the same action when loading filament, this way it will always purge in the left front corner.
An issue I will have to fix myself because itās in the designā¦
Is to move the power button, having the power button on the left means I have to reach around the left Z axis stepper motor. If you Home after every print you could reach over it, most users donāt so sometimes you have reach under & around it. Either way, itās just awkward.
I will have to think about where the best place for me would be, then decide how to go about it safely.
Hello,
Maybe a smart power plug.
There are plugs which support 2500W.
I have the printer on a smart plug, I just donāt want to turn it on & off that way.
For me, itās for emergencies, when Iām not at homeā¦so I rarely ever think about it.
I donāt want to get used to using it and accidentally turn it off in the middle of a print.
I plan on actually adding a physical switch.
One thing I forgot to post above is that the actual print time is longer than the sliced time.
Sometimes up to 1 hour.
As you know, I donāt know Klipper at all, but I know Octoprint.
Is there any way, as with Octoprint, to remotely monitor all the conditions of a print so that you can interact in case of a malfunction?
Yes, Iām using Obico.
Hi Lion,
from a sentence in your first comment (āThe screen needs more optionsā) I guess, that you work only with the screens GUI.
There you get only one tenth of Klipperās beauty and versatility. Try the Mainsail GUI, which really shows richness in infos and in capabilities.
When you didnāt do it already, get the printers IP-Adress (from your router) and call it up in your browser.
Yes, I know. My issue is that my computer (Desktop) & printers are no longer in the same room.
So unless I want to keep my laptop in the print room, I have to walk back & forth to remove purge lines from the bed when I switch from black to white.
Iām still learning Klipper, a little at a timeā¦but the screen does need more options for users like myself while we learn. I just think that Sovol removed too muchā¦JMO
I also have been using Obico & Iām not sure if they are missing things also or I just canāt find them 
Iām sure Iāll need help from time to time, thanks
I will send the fixed video to you by message.