Well, believe it or not, I have loads of problems with rippling when I use 120-150mm/s for the infill on the first layer - normally, that’s a Z issue, but if I tune it so that goes away then there are adhesion problems. The weird part is…I accidentally set the infill speed to 220mm/s, and…it’s perfect.
This is PLA, mind, not PETG.
220mm/s infill I should try that, just for kicks.
Most of the prints I do are filled filaments glass or carbon fiber I just like the matte finish.
I did have a few times of the filament knotting on the spool causing the extruder to grind that causing the hob gear teeth to round off, by Sovol spec the gear is only 28-30Rc I have been a machinist for over 40 years I know that is soft, so I did what some others have done is to use a orbiter v2.5 upgrade kit to use only the 2 drive gears to replace the stock Sovol drive gears, The orbiter are 60Rc and a finer pitch it is a pain to pull the gear off of the spider on the Sovol but the orbiter will slip off the spider with out much force, and will slip fit to the Sovol spider.
I’m working on a mounting plate for the SV08 to hold the orbiter V2.5 using all the stock parts.
The last time I had the filament knot up on the spool it did not grind the filament it broke the filament and stopped the print when the broke end of the filament hit the run out sensor so I think the orbiter drive gears bite very well.
I've been printing with PETG for three years. Now with sv08 I have the same problem as you. I have an eddy probe installed and if I raise the z-offset by 0.05 I have a great first layer but a problem with adhesion, if I leave it there is a problem with waves. Thanks for writing that, I'm going to try increasing the speed of the first layer, now it's 50/90
For what it’s worth, the main problem was the X and Y offsets of the eddy probe. I forgot to come back and update this. The 220mm/s was a bit of a red herring, I think; the waves randomly came back.
Once I went back and accurately measured the real X and Y offsets (the ones from the Rappetor mount were way out), all the problems were fixed. It turns out that having a heightmap that’s 2-3mm away from where it should be is not conducive to good first layers…
Is there a video guide on how to do this? I can't figure it out from the description itself.
It’s pretty simple - I don’t know what the official approach is, but this is how I did it:
Fold a piece of A4 near the edge and place it so the smaller part is held down under the magnetic build plate and the larger part sits on top. Draw a cross with a ruler anywhere on the paper, such that the lines are parallel to the X and Y axes (this will make it easier later).
Next, move the toolhead to x=177, Y=0, Z=300 and take the cover off. Shine a torch on the bottom of the eddy sensor - it should look like concentric rectangles. Mark the edges of the PCB so that you can see where the exact centre is from two angles (front and left, as you look at the front of the printer).
Bring the toolhead down so that the nozzle is about 1mm above the plate, and align it exactly with the centre of the cross. Write down the coordinates, then jog the toolhead so that the centre of the eddy sensor is directly above the the centre of the cross (this is why you made the marks on the edge of the PCB earlier). Write down these coordinates.
The difference between the two sets of coordinates is the X and Y offset for the probe. Update the offsets in printer.cfg (or wherever you’ve got them stored), save and restart. Run a bed mesh, and it should look a lot more reasonable.
thank you very much. that will help
No worries. Remember to get the signs correct - for example, if the probe centre is to the left and behind the nozzle as you’re looking at the printer from the front, then the X offset will be negative and the Y offset will be positive.
Get that wrong, and ‘orrible stuff will happen 
The problem is that I don't have BTT, but from sovola eddy, I can't see any rectangular shapes on it. Maybe I need to move it to see it, I don't know how.
Mine hasn’t shown up yet…as soon as it gets here, I’ll have a look at it and figure out where the central point is and see if there’s any variation in the mount relative to the defaults. It might be that you need to remove the PCB from the plastic housing to see it.