I’m just starting out with 3D printing and is in search for Gcode for Start Stop.
preferably with Start and bed leveling included, and a fix that some youtuber raised the problem with head and bed heating simultaiously didnt work (you probably already fixed that).
G1 Z5 F150 ; lower nozzle
G1 X0.1 Y10 Z5.0 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 Z1.0 F150; Lower to ready
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G4 S2 ; wait 2 seconds
M117 Printing Purge Lines
G1 Z0.3 F150 ; Move lower
G1 X0.1 Y150 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y150 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y15 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
M117 Print Start…
G1 Z0.6 F150 ; Lift A BIT
G92 E0.0 ; Reset Extruder
M83 ; Extruder relative mode
G1 Z1.0 F150 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G4 S2 ; wait 02 seconds
; printing object ENDGCODE
G91 ; RELATIVE POSITIONING
G1 E-2 F2700 ; RETRACT A BIT
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ; RETRACT AND RAISE Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ; WIPE OUT
G90 ; ABSOLUTE POSITIONING
M117 Print Complete!
G27 P2 P ; park head & present print
M220 S100 ; reset feed rate to 100 percent
M221 S100 ; reset flow rate to 100 percent
M104 S0 ; kill extruder temperature
M140 S0 ; kill bed temperature
M107 ; kill fan
Hey! I’ve recently found this start and end code pretty useful. Is there any way to change the temps that it sets when probing the 9 points during auto bed levelling? I want to increase them to my actually printing temps. Cheers!
Hi, I would not recommend the printing temperature at the probing. Because the filament can run out of the nozzle during probing and the print bed is then littered with small filament drops.
If you still want to do this, replace the following:
M104 S165 ; set etruder temp
to:
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
Are the M140 and M104 commands necessary if they are after the 190 and 109? I’m just now learning G-Code and wasn’t sure.
I’m planning on adding a mesh check in my start code for a dual reason, to make sure the mesh is current and also to allow some heat soak on the bed. I have had issues with adhesion on a fresh bed.
The M104 and M140 are not necessary before the M109 and M190, but are recommended by Marlin and RepRap. The bed mesh should always be made in the heated state in order to measure the bed in its real state. I swapped my bed for a flat, finely milled cast aluminum bed. Everything absolutely plan. But if the Z-offset doesn’t match, this doesn’t help anymore either.
This is a script that always automatically takes the temperature for the bed from your filament settings. When the filament is deposited correctly. Then the ASA checks with 100 degrees or depending on what you have integrated for your filament.