Ooooooooozing is gone

Sovol Zero
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1

Hello there,

I love the Zero. But I hate that ooozing while CLEAN_NOZZLE. So I dived into the [MACRO.cfg] and discovered the following line.

Macro.cfg:47

M109 S200

So the temp for the nozzle is fix.

If we change this line to

M109 S130

The nozzle will stay at the - hopefully - preheated temp and run the pre flight checks and calibrations.

Remember: Your nozzle must be as clean as you could eat from it. (This is a german phrase. It might get lost in translation.)

Have a beautiful day and may you never feel cold these days,

Clumsy

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I changed my nozzle cleaning to start even hotter, 230 I think, but it ends wiping at 130. I mostly print PETG on the zero, but also ASA and sometimes nylon or PC. The original nozzle clean at 200 often failed me. I also changed it to move over the scrubber before getting the nozzle hot so that initial heating ooze binds into the scrubber and then pulls off whatever gunk was left on the nozzle from the previous print.

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I see your approach and I am sure it works.

Just wanted to share this easy ā€˜modā€™. It is literally just two numbers.

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Instead of cold scrubbing which probably does nothing, maybe just skip nozzle cleaning and save the time? I assume you now clean the nozzle by hand before starting a print?

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I think this did not occure to me as it way to easy. :rofl:
I like to watch the routine. I have another printer which made the same and clocking ion the fixed lower temp never caused an issue.
The cold scrubbing is not an issue. I clean my nozzle with a hand brush at 130 c.

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130C may work fine for a hand brush, but I donā€™t think thatā€™s hot enough for the silicone pad, at least with the default motion pattern & speed. Someoneā€™s been experimenting with different cleaning macros, but I forget who and I donā€™t think anything has been posted yet.

Watching go from 130C, to 200C, back to 130C, then to target temp is certainly frustrating, especially if youā€™ve already done the nozzle cleaning yourself, and your filament is still oozing. Personally, Iā€™m lazy and rather have the machine do the brushing, but still avoid the oozing, which I still get a little of with PLA. Personally Iā€™ll be trying out 160C as a better compromise temp.

To each their own!

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I changed the CLEAN_NOZZLE macro to cool the nozzle to 130 C while scrubbing it in the silicone wiper pad so it doesnā€™t ooze after itā€™s cleaned, which can leave a dot of cool filament on the nozzle tip that causes the subsequent bed probing Z offset to be too high, resulting in failed prints. Itā€™s in this thread:

My solution isnā€™t the simplest or best approach but it requires minor changes to the existing CLEAN_NOZZLE macro so itā€™s easy to try, and reverse if you donā€™t like it.

I like leaving the cool nozzle in the silicone wiper so it canā€™t leave anything on the bed, but I think Iā€™ll leave the cool nozzle above the wiper pad after it has been scrubbed clean to ensure that no little pieces of filament in the silicone wiper pad can re-contaminate the nozzle.

After each Zero print, I remove the printed part, peel the little prime stripe (it looks like an exclamation point!) off the build plate next to the silicone wiper pad, pull the cooled ooze from the nozzle, and I run my fingernail across the silicone wiper pad to remove any plastic, so the printer is ready for the next use.

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I love your approach and will test it.

Thanks a lot.

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