# Chamber Preheat **URL:** \ **Category:** Sovol Zero\ **Created:** [June 13, 2025, 6:53am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057 "2025-06-13T06:53:30Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 15\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![Liberty4Ever](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/forum.sovol3d.com/liberty4ever/32/3265_2.png) [@Liberty4Ever](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/Liberty4Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 19, 2025, 3:23am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/21 "2025-06-19T03:23:28Z")
I remain impressed with the Zero’s passive heating. The passive heating on this small enclosed printer is significantly better than my previous experience with passively heated chambers on larger printers. I’d be more interested in chamber pre-heating if I was printing tall thin walled objects that warp a lot and grow in height so fast that the chamber doesn’t have much opportunity to heat while the base is printing, or if I was printing with more exotic high temperature materials that are more difficult to print. I am thinking of buying a spool of PPS in case I need some very high temperature parts. I abandoned my initial idea to print low infill foaming PLA-LW thermally insulating tiles for the inside of the Zero when I saw how quickly the chamber heated without insulation but this thread indicates interest in faster and more effective passive chamber heating. It wouldn’t be difficult to print some insulating tiles. I already have the PLA-LW filament and the magnets. I’d follow bircoe’s good example and provide graphical data showing the chamber heating with and without the thermal insulating tiles… because I’m an engineer, and engineers love data! 🙂 The tiles wouldn’t interfere with the Zero’s range of motion or operation, other than making passive heating more effective. For me, that would only mean that the exhaust fan would turn on sooner when the chamber reached 60 C… or 50 C for PETG. The Zero would be more energy efficient, it would dump less heat into my office, and it would be quieter. It would make PLA cooling slightly more problematic but I don’t print high speed PLA. As an added bonus, I chose a light gray PLA-LW so the inside of the chamber should be brighter without adding more LEDs. As another added bonus, I was planning on making the insulated top a 100 mm tall truncated pyramid with a filament feed hole on top, similar to the design of my 3D printed SV08 enclosure. I greatly prefer to mount the filament above the printer and feed the filament directly into the top of the extruder without a reverse Bowden tube. I print a lot of TPU and it’s sensitive to PTFE tube friction. It’s also difficult to feed stiff and brittle filament such as Siraya Tech ABS-CF without it breaking in the PTFE tube, and it’s much easier to swap filaments without needing to remove and reinstall the PTFE tube each time. ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 19, 2025, 5:22am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/22 "2025-06-19T05:22:28Z")
I had thought of doing an extended top as well to make a better path for the PTFE tube, on my to do list, bonus is that it will print in one piece on my SV08! Extra lighting is never a bad thing though, I designed this to add some 24V COB strip and it makes a really nice difference still hard to see under the nozzle, would need something mounted much lower to improve that but still an improvement. > **[Sovol Zero Light Bar Mod by M P | Download free STL model | Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/model/1324675-sovol-zero-light-bar-mod)** > > Light bar with reflectors to limit glare on the camera. | Download free 3D printable STL models ---
**Author:** ![Liberty4Ever](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/forum.sovol3d.com/liberty4ever/32/3265_2.png) [@Liberty4Ever](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/Liberty4Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 19, 2025, 5:39am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/23 "2025-06-19T05:39:04Z")
> [@bircoe](#): > > I had thought of doing an extended top as well to make a better path for the PTFE tube, on my to do list, bonus is that it will print in one piece on my SV08! I’m planning on an SV08 (or similar) version of the Zero thermal insulation tiles and top hat that prints in one piece per side on a larger printer, as well as the same parts broken into smaller pieces that can be printed on the Zero, with the hat connected into a single piece using 4 mm square pegs. That’s what I did with the sides and truncated pyramid top on my 3D printed SV08 enclosure that prints on the SV08. ---
**Author:** ![mw75](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/8491ac/32.png) [@mw75](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/mw75)\ **Post date:** [June 20, 2025, 4:35pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/24 "2025-06-20T16:35:55Z")
I’m using the macro below to implement M191 and M141. On an unmodified Zero i get my chamber from 22°C room temperature to 40°C in 10-15 minutes with just 100° bed heating. ```auto [gcode_macro M141] gcode: SET_TEMPERATURE_FAN_TARGET temperature_fan=exhaust_fan target={params.S|default(0)} [gcode_macro M191] gcode: {% set s = params.S|float %} {% if s == 0 %} # If target temperature is 0, do nothing M117 Chamber heating cancelled {% else %} SET_TEMPERATURE_FAN_TARGET temperature_fan=exhaust_fan target={s+2} G28 G0 X75 Y75 Z5 F1500 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=fan0 SPEED=0.5 {% if not printer["temperature_fan exhaust_fan"].temperature >= s %} SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=fan2 SPEED=0 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=fan3 SPEED=0 M140 S100 {% else %} M140 S0 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=fan2 SPEED=0.5 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=fan3 SPEED=0.5 {% endif %} M117 waiting for Chamber temperature TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_fan exhaust_fan" MINIMUM={s-1} MAXIMUM={s+10} SET_TEMPERATURE_FAN_TARGET temperature_fan=exhaust_fan target=0 M117 Chamber at target temperature {% endif %} ``` ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/c/cf62804fd617d519bb3e572f9c30eb60fa4183e3.png) ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 20, 2025, 7:34pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/25 "2025-06-20T19:34:45Z")
Nice, my next step was to turn the macro into M141/M191 macros, thanks for sharing, what do you have connected to fan3? ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 20, 2025, 7:56pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/26 "2025-06-20T19:56:45Z")
Been working on this for a little while, made some final tweaks today and reprinted a couple of times but its looking good so far, has a 24V 4020 fan and a 12v 50W PTC heater, I’ve found a 24V 100W PTC heater that appears to be about the same size so I’ll order that in the next couple of days as 50W is pretty limited in heating capability. Fits on a side panel and just uses magnets to keep it in place and clears the print bed with a handful of mm to spare! ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/a/a0af68073ce9152c12ca1a0cccf311e4da411e1f.jpeg) ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/d/dcd1e475772869c7578946d100c5ff6a2a727975.jpeg) ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/9/9a5175a4c724fcd1f623832e9e6ab1d1254949b0.jpeg) ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/5/594b5068f88c028830202ca2a4af95f09448efff.jpeg) ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/b/b8a6b45c716f9b7ffbab8dea7eb8044a11ec889a.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![cardoc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/ec9cab/32.png) [@cardoc](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/cardoc)\ **Post date:** [June 20, 2025, 8:58pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/27 "2025-06-20T20:58:54Z")
Be careful adding 24V loads to the Zero power supply, it hasn’t much spare capacity. I had the idea to get a small heat gun and a solid state relay. Gut the heat gun, attach the heater to the SSR and Cut the housing in half and make an adapter for a 24Vdc fan. Hook the other side of the SSR to the chamber heat pin on the MCU and make a thermostatically controlled chamber heater. If you want tap it in at the INPUT to the power supply or just plug it into the mains. > **[DIDODI Mini Heat Gun 300W Handheld Heat Gun Dual-Temperature 392℉ & 662℉ Hot...](https://www.amazon.com/DIDODI-Heat-Gun-Handheld-Dual-Temperature/dp/B0B9YKSKCR)** > > DIDODI Mini Heat Gun 300W Handheld Heat Gun Dual-Temperature 392℉ & 662℉ Hot Air Gun Electric Heating Tools for Removing Epoxy Cup Painting Resin Air Bubbles, Drying Crafts & Shrink Wrap Paint - Amazon.com > **[Wengart Solid State Relay Module SSR,25Amp Input DC4~32V Output AC24~480V Single...](https://www.amazon.com/Wengart-Plastic-Various-Control-Available/dp/B0C4MZHKQV)** > > The solid-state relay is a new type of relay, which uses solid-state components such as transistors and optoelectronic devices to achieve switch control, instead of using electromagnetic attraction to achieve switching actions like traditional... ---
**Author:** ![Liberty4Ever](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/forum.sovol3d.com/liberty4ever/32/3265_2.png) [@Liberty4Ever](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/Liberty4Ever)\ **Post date:** [June 20, 2025, 10:45pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/28 "2025-06-20T22:45:40Z")
That Zero chamber heater is very nice! I’m a bit sketchy on making things designed to get hot, particularly in plastic enclosures, but this is very well implemented. I assume it’s a chamber pre-heater that would only be used when you’re there watching it, and PTC offers a lot of safety. I’d either power it remotely or upgrade the Zero power supply and power it directly from the upgraded power supply, via a fuse and switch. ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 21, 2025, 1:24am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/29 "2025-06-21T01:24:50Z")
> [@cardoc](#): > > Be careful adding 24V loads to the Zero power supply, it hasn’t much spare capacity. I plan on powering externally, the standard power supply is only 150W so I had no intention of running a heater from it. There are 220V (and presumably 110V) PTC’s in what looks to be the same form factor pretty cheap: ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/5/5d8d8a51aca1eee96e0bd72cb8b95e2ec4379372.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 21, 2025, 1:31am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/30 "2025-06-21T01:31:29Z")
Yeah, they self regulate so shouldn’t thermally run away and should shut off if the fan fails so I feel ok with them, I can make them shut off by increasing the voltage, 14V draws around 100W from this PTC and it shuts itself off after about 30-60 seconds. Most PTC modules come mounted in ABS plastic brackets, and this black one was printed in ASA, haven’t seen any warpage yet, my earlier prototype was printed in PLA and didn’t fair so well but still remained in tact… ![image](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/a/af7fa75bd8abef1842a0b7715f30cd8b9d86caf1.jpeg) And yes, only pre heat, I would switch it off once the chamber gets hot enough or a timer has expired, that’s all easy to implement. ---
**Author:** ![cardoc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/ec9cab/32.png) [@cardoc](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/cardoc)\ **Post date:** [June 21, 2025, 1:53am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/31 "2025-06-21T01:53:03Z")
AC or DC (with dedicated power) it still would be dead simple to use a SSR and put it under control of the MCU. No reason to only preheat with it. ---
**Author:** ![bircoe](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/a3d4f5/32.png) [@bircoe](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/bircoe)\ **Post date:** [June 21, 2025, 1:55am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/32 "2025-06-21T01:55:35Z")
I plan on controlling it, just don’t see a real need to keep it operational after printing temp is reached as the heat from everything else inside the chamber will increase the internal temp more anyway, I can only get to the high 30’s with this 50W unit, while printing the Zero will get into the mid 50’s. ---
**Author:** ![cardoc](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/ec9cab/32.png) [@cardoc](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/cardoc)\ **Post date:** [June 21, 2025, 2:02am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/33 "2025-06-21T02:02:35Z")
> [@Liberty4Ever](#): > > would only be used when you’re there watching it Include a thermal fuse if you want. 142 °C won’t start any fires. > **[Amazon.com: (Pack of 10pcs) RY Temperature Fuse TF Thermal Fuse 10A 250V 140°F...](https://www.amazon.com/10pcs-Temperature-Thermal-Household-appliances/dp/B0D7VM5J39)** > > The RY temperature fuse TF thermal fuse is an essential safety component designed to protect electrical circuits from overheating. This metal fuse is rated for 10A at 250V and has a temperature range of 60°C to 300°C (140°F to 572°F), making it... ---
**Author:** ![Lion](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/forum.sovol3d.com/lion/32/5586_2.png) [@Lion](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/Lion)\ **Post date:** [February 15, 2026, 12:58pm UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/34 "2026-02-15T12:58:54Z")
I thought I would post that I did install the Sovol Chamber Heater. I works fine, I haven’t had any issues the 3-4 times I’ve used it. ![1000005783](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/8/8cf18e71e86ccb3dc23f1e2edd5b62404f7e9cef.jpeg) ![1000005807](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/2/23dfe0191aa4bab66c3be1d548b24c961d08aa24.jpeg) ![1000005808](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/sovolforum/original/2X/a/acbe21dcc62b3016f6e693184c05569f45ca2f97.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Liberty4Ever](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/forum.sovol3d.com/liberty4ever/32/3265_2.png) [@Liberty4Ever](https://forum.sovol3d.com/u/Liberty4Ever)\ **Post date:** [February 16, 2026, 3:44am UTC](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057/35 "2026-02-16T03:44:00Z")
I wasn’t able to find the chamber heater when searching the Zero accessories, probably because it’s new and hasn’t been added to the Zero accessories yet. > **[Accessories](https://www.sovol3d.com/collections/fdm-parts?filter.p.m.custom.sovol_parts=For+Sovol+Zero)** > > Sovol 3D dig into the 3d printing community deeply, keep on making more accessories to satisfy FDM 3d printer owners’ various demand, help you improve print quality and make 3d printing easier. However, I was able to find it by using the search function. > **[Chamber Heating Module for Zero](https://www.sovol3d.com/products/zero-chamber-heater?_pos=1&_psq=chamber&_ss=e&_v=1.0)** > > Built for high-temperature 3D printing, this Chamber Heating Module supports advanced filaments like ABS, ASA, and PA/PC by ensuring a stable environment for flawless, uniform print quality. I just placed the order, but I believe Sovol just started their Spring holiday so it may not ship for a week or so? I’ve been printing ABS-CF with the door closed and the lid off and the filament feeding down from above (ABS-CF filament is too stiff to feed through the Bowden tube) so the chamber temperatures with a 105 C bed run around 55 C in the summer and 50 C in the winter. I need to upgrade my SV08 so I can print an insulated truncated one piece pyramidal top for the Zero to keep the heat inside. I had initially thought about printing insulated tiles for the inside of the Zero that are magnetically attached, but the Zero was preheating the chamber quickly and the ABS was printing so well that I didn’t think I needed them. I may revise that idea and print some thermal tiles to increase the thermal efficiency of the printer, and maybe I’ll print them in light gray to reflect more light inside the printer to brighten it up a bit more. I’m looking forward to printing ABS-CF at 60 C chamber temperature, and I may start printing PPS, PPS-CF, PA-CF, etc. [Previous page](https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/chamber-preheat/8057.md?page=1)